Reinhold Messner Free Spirit: A Climber’s Life. Reinhold Messner. Translated by JillNeate. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1991. 250 pages, illustrated. $32.00. Although he is still well under 50, perhaps Messner has already accomplished too much for a...
Thanglasgo Valley, Peak 5,850m, northwest face and northeast ridge; Peak 5,995m, southeast ridge. From 2007 to 2009 I led expeditions to the Nubra Valley for the British Schools Exploring Society (BSES), picking off a few previously climbed and un...
Commercialization and Modern ClimbingThree viewsby Pavel Chabaline, Will Gadd and Steve HouseEditor’s Note: Climbing has been accepted as an activity worthy of popular media attention for some time now. Good news: we as a body are traveling in lar...
Mount Adams, Rusk Ice Cliff. In February Chet Sutterlin and I made a new route on the east of Mount Adams. From the upper right of the Rusk Glacier we quickly climbed a 40° snow-and-ice gully until we could traverse left over verglased rock for a ...
AVALANCHE, POOR POSITION—UNDER ORJECTIVE HAZARDS Alaska, Mount Hunter, West FaceAt 2400 on June 21, Chuck Drake (27) and Joshua Hane (28) departed the 7,200-foot Kahiltna Base Camp. They were attempting to climb a previously unclimbed route on the...
Tis-sa-ackRoyal S. RobbinsTHE NAME is that of an Indianlass whose tears of sorrow for her lost lover streaked black the big face of Half Dome. So say the legends. I took Dennis Hennek’s spyglass to go up and pop an eyeball at her — the wall not th...
Tehipite Dome, Too Hip. In July, 1996, Ron Felton and I climbed a crack and face line, Too Hip (III 5.11, six pitches with 60-meter ropes) starting about 400 feet left and up from the point where the Kroger and Beckey routes intersect on the huge ...
Makalu, southeast ridge ascent. After they had abandoned their attempt on the northeast ridge from Tibet, reported elsewhere, Frenchmen Yannick Graziani, Christian Trommsdorff, and Patrick Wagnon decided to try the southeast ridge. It had been in ...
Führer durch das Alpine Museum in München, by Hermann Bühler. 8 vo., 114 pages with illustrations. Munich: Berg- verlag Rudolf Rother, 1941.Since 1938 Dr. Bühler has been director of the museum of the German Alpine Club, a project originated in 19...
Palung Ri, permit confusion. A funny thing happened in connection with the first permit to be issued by the Nepalese Ministry of Tourism for Palung Ri. Two unsuspecting New Zealanders, Michael Chapman-Smith and Tim Logan, selected this mountain be...
United States: Climbs in the Pacific Northwest“Fixed” Routes on Faces. In recent years several climbers in the Pacific Northwest have become interested in long, sheer face climbs —for example, the S. Face of Forbidden Peak, the W. Face of Eldorado...
A.A.C., New York Section. Not every year is of vintage quality, but 1989 will surely rank as one of the most memorable in New York Section history. Our illustrated lectures continue a long tradition and give members the opportunity to hear outstan...
Thin White Line. Andy Cave. London: Hutchinson, 2008. 230 pages.Hardcover. $48.50.In 1997, during his descent from the north face of Changabang, in the Garwhal Himalaya, Andy Cave heard a quiet sound. High above, a series of snow slides merged int...
Evighedsfjord, West Greenland. The Göppingen Greenland Expedition was composed of Heiner Schlee, Georg Vlach, Peter Meier, Richard Niebling, Olfert Dorka, Ully Strohm, Rolf Hauff, Monika Haase, Martin Albanus, Reinhard Frick, Fred Bässler, Ilse Dö...
Mt. Walsh, Northwest Ridge, Spring Peak, Jekden Mountain. On May 27, Janez Ales and I flew to the Upper Donjek Glacier, just west of Mt. Walsh (4507m). We set up base camp at 3000 meters. The next day we climbed the standard West Ridge route on Mt...
The 1923 Climb of the Grand TetonAs told to Orrin H. Bonney by David DeLap*In my researches on the history of the Grand Teton, I recently obtained the story of the “three college boys from Missoula, Montana” who, on August 23, 1923, broke the spel...
El Mocho, Southeast Buttress and Mojón Rojo. After 12 days of hiking and waiting for climbing partners, I was graciously asked to join the Australian Patagonian Expedition. We spent the next few days of precious good weather ferrying loads up to B...
Mount Gilbert, Chugach Range. In two successive flights, Lowell Thomas, Jr. took our party, consisting of Helga Bading, Hans Metz, Bob Bailey, Steve Foss and me, from Palmer to 2500 feet on Surprise Glacier. From there our route lay up a tributary...
Mt. Deborah, Northwest Ridge, First Alpine-Style Ascent. In May, during a relatively stable period of weather, Matt Porter and I flew into the head of the Yanert Glacier on the west side of Mt. Deborah. From the 6,200-foot landing area, we left a ...
JOHN ELVIS HARLIN, II1935-1966When John Harlin fell to his death from the Eiger on March 22, 1966, the world of mountaineering, both American and international, lost one of its brightest stars. In the not quite thirty-one years of his life he had ...