Argentine Patagonia, Various Activity. In late 1996, Italians P. Cavagnetto, R. Giovanetto, M. Motto, G. Predan and C. Ravaschietto attempted to climb Punta Filip (the northwest gendarme of Aguja Bifida) from the western flank, but they retreated ...
Other notable ascents (in addition to individual reports below). British climbers Jon Bracey and Andy Houseman made the long-awaited second ascent of the French Route on Mt. Hunter’s North Buttress in early May. Since the 1984 first ascent, the su...
This is the thirty-ninth issue of Accidents in North American Mountaineering and the ninth that has been edited and published jointly by The American Alpine Club and The Alpine Club of Canada.Canada: In 1985, the number of reported mountaineering ...
Four Gables, East Face. A very complicated mountain, Four Gables has at least four well-separated summits. A large cirque to the east ends in upper Horton Lake, and the longest, most continuous wall is north of the lake, just out of sight from the...
WALTER DWIGHT WILCOX1869–1949Walter Dwight Wilcox, who throughout a long life was devoted to the mountains, was an original member of the American Alpine Club. Born in Chicago, Illinois, on 24 September 1869, he was educated at Andover and Yale, w...
HENRY S. KINGMAN1894-1968The Club has sustained a great loss in the death of Henry Kingman who died on December 12 at the age of 74 following recent surgery. His wife the former Josephine Woodward, predeceased him in August. Kingman was a leading ...
Three years ago Fred Beckey pulled out his little black book (actually a tattered FedEx envelope) and showed me a blown-out photocopy of the unclimbed west side of Burkett Needle. Of course, no tactical information could be gained from scrutinizin...
NELLO PACE 1917-1995Nello Pace, one of our most versatile members, who joined the AAC in 1955, died June 17, 1995 of prostate cancer at the age of 78. Nello specialized in environmental physiology, which he once defined as the “study of all the di...
Living Himalayan Flowers, by Professor Sasuke Nakao, with introduction by Prof. Siro Katamura. Published by the Mainichi Newspapers, Tokyo, Yaruka-cho, Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo, 1965. 194 pages, 253 color prints. Bilingual. Price: 8500 yen.The flora of N...
ALVIN E. PETERSON1903-1978Alvin was “Pete” to his many friends and companions of the hills. Educated at Berkeley as an electrical engineer, he was a handyman by proclivity. The design of a high-voltage system or the building of a cabin were both e...
Mount Everest: 1938, by H. W. Tilman. 8vo., 160 pp., 48 illustrations and 4 maps. New York, 1948: The Macmillan Co. Price, $3.75. The great record of the 1924 Everest Expedition tends so to dwarf the accomplishments of subsequent parties that to r...
Climbs by Indian Expeditions. Three persons lost their lives in an attempt to climb Mukerbey (19,910 feet). The group left Manali on October 13. On the 20th the fourth member, Hoshang Pavri found it difficult to go beyond 14,000 feet and returned ...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED, CARABINER BROKE, EXCEEDING ABILITIESWashington, Frenchman' s Coulee, Air GuitarOn September 30, the famed Swedish adventurer Goran Kropp died from a fall while rock climbing. He was leading Air Guitar, a 65-foot 5....
King Brakk, Allah ’s Finger, Ibrahim Peak, First Ascents. A team of three Italians and one Swiss carried out a massive campaign of exploration in unknown valleys and peaks of the Hushe area. The team was composed of Maurizio Giordani, Lorenzo Lanf...
Tasermiut Fjord, Nalumatorsoq, Stupid White Man, attempt; Ulamertorssuaq, War and Poetry, attempt. Wawrzyniec “Wawa” Zakrzewski and I have climbed in Patagonia, Yosemite, and the Trango Tower area of Pakistan. Last year we visited Greenland, from ...
Manaslu Southeast-Face Attempt. A 10-man expedition from Macedonia, Yugoslavia was led by Jovan Poposki. They attempted the southeast face, the route of the Poles in the autumn of 1984. Frequent heavy snowfall in September and the first half of Oc...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, EXCEEDING ABILITIES North Carolina, Pilot Mountain State ParkOn September 5, Paul Bridges (PB) and Alex Rodriguez (AR) were rappelling in Pilot Mountain State Park, which is located approximately 2 5 miles north of Winston Sa...
Putha Hiunchuli. Another Japanese expedition, from the Nagoya YMCA Alpine Club, led by Tadaki Sabashi, climbed Putha Hiunchuli also by the south spur in the post-monsoon. They too came from the southwest. Leaving Camp IV at 21,000 feet, on October...
Total Alpinism. René Desmaison. Granada, London, 1982. 202 pages, black and white photographs. £12.50.Total Alpinism is certainly a book to read. It is like sitting down with one’s best pal and listening to him tell about his latest wild climb. Th...
Aguja Saint Exupery, north face and east face variation. On January 16, 2002, Americans Lorne Glick and Mark Davis climbed a new variation to the Kearney-Harrington route on the north face. They started on the Kearney line, then climbed a steep cr...