Mount Gilbert, Chugach Range. In two successive flights, Lowell Thomas, Jr. took our party, consisting of Helga Bading, Hans Metz, Bob Bailey, Steve Foss and me, from Palmer to 2500 feet on Surprise Glacier. From there our route lay up a tributary...
Mt. Deborah, Northwest Ridge, First Alpine-Style Ascent. In May, during a relatively stable period of weather, Matt Porter and I flew into the head of the Yanert Glacier on the west side of Mt. Deborah. From the 6,200-foot landing area, we left a ...
JOHN ELVIS HARLIN, II1935-1966When John Harlin fell to his death from the Eiger on March 22, 1966, the world of mountaineering, both American and international, lost one of its brightest stars. In the not quite thirty-one years of his life he had ...
Chopicalqui, North Ridge. It was reported that a 12-man Italian team made the first integral ascent of the north ridge of Chopicalqui (6345m). Tarcisco Bello and Giuseppe Tararan reached the main summit on August 1,1996. The team began seiging the...
Between a Rock and a Hard Place. Aron Ralston. Atria Books: New York, 2004.354 pages, with 16 pages of color photos. $26.00This is the book about the guy who cut his arm off, by the guy who cut his arm off. His name is Aron Ralston, and he’s alter...
A Mountaineer’s Route to the Summit of Mt. WhitneyThe completion of the new trail to the top of Mt. Whitney, which enables almost anyone who can ride a horse to reach it, together with the fact that this mountain is the highest in the United State...
RAPPEL FAILURE, BAD WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIA, INADEQUATEEQUIPMENTWyoming, TetonsAbout 2:30 a.m. on August 28, Don DeMuro (22) died of hypothermia while trying to descend the Petzoldt Ridge on the Grand Teton. He and Mike Katchmar (20) had become benig...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE, INADEQUATE BELAY AND PROTECTION, NO HARD HAT, POOR POSITIONOregon, Smith RocksBill Pesklak (39) and his partner Brian Boshart (25) were working on Titanium Jag, a 5.10b, assigned two stars, an average quality...
North Over Mt. RobsonWilliam R. HainsworthIT is a great satisfaction to recall this mountain adventure with- out a single derogatory thought about the weather. In fact, we were as fortunate in this as in the unplanned sequence of events determinin...
Mount Everest, Ascents and Attempts During the Pre-Monsoon Season. Sixty-seven climbers summitted Everest from the Tibetan side of the mountain in the pre-monsoon (spring) season. Eleven teams, five of which were commercial expeditions accounting ...
Airborne to the Mountains, by James Mills with foreword by Sir John Hunt. London: Thomas Yoseloff Ltd.; New York: A. S. Barnes & Co., Inc., 1961. 212 pages, 22 illustrations, 2 sketch maps, 7 appendices. Airborne to the Mountains is the record...
Cordillera Blanca and Cordillera Norte, Pallasca Area in Northern Ancash. Atsumi Hosono led the expedition of the Sofia Alpine Club of Jochi University. Other members were Yoshihiko Takayama, Yasuhide Yokochi and Shuzo Kinoshita. They established ...
With Peter Barry, of Wellington, N.Z., I left Marcapata on July 6, 1969 for the Tillpa valley. We passed the ridge of Sahuancay Cruz (see map above and map notes here) with its ruins, and its bird’s-eye view on either side, and continued via Chi...
OFF ROUTE–FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND PROTECTIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesWelsh climbers Dan McDonald (20) and Peris Roberts (20) started climbing Royal Arches (17 pitches, 5.9) at 1130 on August 1. The route was well wit...
Diran. The original objective of Hanns Schell, Rainer Göschl and mine was the Hindu Raj, but as other expeditions had the same goals, we requested permission for Kampiri Dior, but when that was not granted we decided to try Diran (23,862 feet). Di...
High Tatras, Ridge Traverse. In January, Vlado Plulik made a solo traverse of the main ridge of the High Tatras in Slovakia. He had tried to climb the ridge in winter for the first time in 1992. His idea was to climb this problem non-stop very qui...
Thompson Ridge Area and Granite Ridge. In addition to the mountains mentioned above in Kost’s report, the Poles climbed these peaks in the Thompson Ridge area: P 7394 via west ridge by Slawomir Maczynski and Andrzej Sobolewski and June 13; P 7401 ...
FATIGUE—PULMONARY INFECTION, DEHYDRATION, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT—NO STOVEAlaska, Mount McKinley, Direct West ButtressAt 2121 on June 2, Jim LaRue (45) and River Lee-Elkin (27) of the “NW Buttress 02 ” expedition, after spending over forty hours on t...
Cathedral Spires, Kichatna MountainsMichael Pennings,* unaffiliatedAS THE FOUR OF US STOOD silently watching the plane fly away, the reality of six weeks deep in the Alaskan wilderness began to sink in. Surrounding us, the sheer walls of the Kicha...
Dhaulagiri, Southwest Buttress. Our expedition was composed of Jean Coudray, leader, Yves Pollet-Villard, Bernard Muller, Raymond Renaud, Marc Salomez, Dr. Philippe Michaud and me. We climbed the southwest buttress, attempted in 1978 by French gui...