Northern Sikkim, Various Ascents. Only one expedition gained permission to climb in Sikkim during 1996. After prolonged, extensive and persistent negotiation, an eight-man Anglo-American group led by Doug Scott became the first western mountaineer...
Mt. Huntington, West Face, Attempt. After flying over 1,200 miles of seamless clouds, Brad Grohusky and I were assured that the rumors of a particularly wet season in Alaska were true. The clouds looked just as permanent from below as the Talkeetn...
Snow & Spire: Flights to Winter in the North Cascade Range. John Scurlock. Silt, CO: Wolverine Publishing. Many color photographs. 192 pages. Hardcover. $59.95.Mountain. Sandy Hill. New York: Rizzoli. 2011. 352 pages. Many color and B&W ph...
Castle Mountains. On June 7, Keith Brunckhorst and I climbed the west hanging buttress on the Stone Pillar behind the Stone Pillar Ranch. The first pitch was up a 5.10a slab now protected by two bolts to gain a 70-foot finger to hand crack. The se...
Robert G. Allison 1928–2007Bob Allison died April 22, at the age of 78, after a long struggle with cancer. He was serving at the time of his death as chair of the AAC’s Grand Teton Climbers’ Ranch Committee. He had previously served for many years...
Edinburgh Andean Expedition, Cordillera Central and Cordillera Blanca. The Scots, Dr. Hugh Simpson (leader), William Wallace, and Miss Myrtle L. Emslie, were joined by Dr. Derek Fabian and the Frenchmen, Henri Chanzy and Yves Merle d’Aubigné, on s...
A Tour in Swedish LaplandDonald W. BrownLAPLAND is an ethnological rather than political name, since the country inhabited by the Lapps extends from the Atlantic in northern Norway, across Sweden and Finland to the Kola Peninsula in Russia. Of th...
Mount Everest. The trip was led by German Gerhard Lenser with Phil Erch- ler as climbing leader. We started in the icefall on April 1. The winter had been very dry and the icefall was in bad shape. It took nine days of hard labor to establish a ro...
EARTHQUAKEWashington, Mount IndexChris Olson (28) was exactly where you don’t want to be when a 6.8-magnitude earthquake hits: Standing on a 12-inch ledge 130 feet up a rock wall.“I thought I was dead,” he said. “It felt like the entire rock ledge...
First Ascents of Routes on Mount Everest, 1963-1987Compiled by Dee MolenaarYearDate(s)RouteNationalityClimbers19535/29South Col, South RidgeBritish, New Zealand, IndianEdmund Hillary Tenzing Norgay19605/25Northeast RidgeChineseWang Fu-chou Chu Yin...
Glacier Studies in Alaska, 1957Melvin G. Marcus* UNTIL recent years, glacier studies byAmerican scientists have been concentrated in the Southeastern Alaska region. Members of the American Alpine Club have followed these activities wi...
DEHYDRATION–INADEQUATE WATER, WEATHERCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn September 22, Mark Gunlogson (41) and I, Micha Miller (41), started up New Dawn wall (VI 5.8 A3) on El Captain. The weather before our ascent had been unseasonably warm...
Torres del Paine, Various Ascents. Sylvain Empereur and I flew from Lyon, France, to Punta Arenas, Chile, on October 12. Two days later, we reached the Japanese Base Camp in the Silencio Valley (to reach the camp, we had to pay U.S. $80 each to en...
Lithuanian-American Exchange. In August, a team of Lithuanian mountaineers arrived in the United States to climb in the Cascades, despite some last-minute complications in Moscow. They were Dainius Makauskas, Rimvydas Simutis, Vilius Saduikis, Kes...
Altitude Illness— 1976 VersionCharles S. Houston, M.D.AS more and more thousands of people easily and speedily reach high mountain ranges which previously were almost inaccessible, the incidence of high altitude illness has also increased. It is p...
On July 14 Dutch climbers Jefta Smit, Sjors Verbrugge, and I arrived in the Tupaassat Valley, situated at the end of the Kangikitsoq Fjord. Our first objective was a direct line on the 1,500m west pillar of Peak 2,106m, which I’d spotted three yea...
Pumori Attempt. The two Dutch climbing members, leader Joost Pielage and Bart Jordans, never really got onto the mountain in their attempt on the east face of Pumori. On May 7 they went to the foot of the face and decided that the danger of fallin...
Tupilak, first ascent of the North face and quasi-winter ascent of Rodebjerg. In 2001, a four-man British team comprising Jon Bracey, Charles “Stan Halstead, Jon Morgan, and Al Powell opted to spend the early part of the year in the Tupilak region...
The Conquest of Everest, by Sir John Hunt, with a chapter on the final assault by Sir Edmund Hillary, and foreword by H. R. H. the Duke of Edinburgh. XX + 300 pages, 79 photos, including 8 in color, 28 sketches, and 4 sketch maps. New York: E. P. ...
In March, German climbers Jens Richter, Tino Kohbach, Michael Baensch, and I, accompanied by Brits Tony and Sarah Whitehouse, spent two weeks in the Gran Sabana. Inspired by a Stefan Glowacz report from 2007, describing a 700m first ascent, we cam...