Argentine-Chilean PatagoniaAvalanche Tragedy, below El Tronador, above Bariloche. On April 25, a group of ten young Argentine climbers were camped in snow caves on the side of the Vieja Ridge on el Tronador. This was a training course for high-mou...
Dolomites—Selected Climbs. Ron James. The Alpine Club, London, 1988.(Distributed by Cordee, 3 De Montfort Street, Leicester LE1 7HD,England.) 60 pages, black-and-white photographs. $22.50 (post paid).Bravissimo to the Alpine Club for being midwife...
Mount Bear, Ascent, and South to North Traverse. Our superb pilot, Paul Claus, of Ultima Thule Outfitters, dropped the three of us (Ruedi Homberger, Hansueli Brunner and I) off May 12, 1995, on the glacier system that drains the south side of Moun...
The Saint Bernard Monks are reported to be making progress with their plans for a branch establishment on the Sila Pass on the border between Tibet and Szechuan. The group which went out in January, 1933, reported favorably on the project. The act...
The Crown (Huang Guan Feng) Attempt and Tragedy. A Himalayan Association of Japan expedition, led by Hideo Tateno, attempted the Crown (7265 meters, 23,835 feet) by its southern face. The members were Hideo Tateno, Jasuhiro Hashimoto, Dr. Isao Sug...
A massif of high peaks, which forms the Nepal-Tibet border southwest of the Nangpa La, is generally unnamed on maps, although one of the northerly summits, 6,781m, is sometimes referred to as Jobo Rinjang (also Ribjang or Rabzang) and on the outda...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAYCalifornia, Temple CragOn October 4, Gary Niblock, Mike Nichols (both 48) and Mark Harris (42) were climbing an ice chute northwest of Temple Crag. About 1300, Harris reached the top first and began watching his friend...
Everest Clean-Up. Our 1992 team consisted of Tom Leech, Pierre Braun- schwig, Steve Kin, Chris Naumann, Kyle Schmierer, Peter Nichol and me. We arrived in Kathmandu on July 1 after two years of careful planning, expecting a warm welcome from the C...
South Eagle Beak, Beagle Creeks. Fred Beckey had climbed this dome via the south face, and Fremont Bainbridge, Conrad Van Bruggen and I had done two routes on the northern beak; this was the first route on the wide southwest face. It follows an ob...
FALL IN CREVASSE, CLIMBING UNROPEDAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabasca GlacierJohn Howard and a companion ascended the Athabasca Glacier on 23 February 1978 to attempt either Snow Dome or Mt. Kitchener. At 1540 hours, under the headwall of the Atha...
Swelokan, south face and northwest ridge attempts. A small Japanese team became the first climbers to attempt the remote 6,180m Swelokan, which lies on the Tibet border north-north-east of Manaslu, in what is sometimes referred to as the Kutang Hi...
From June 18 to 25, Enrico Rosso, Alessandro Vanetti and I climbed alpine-style the first 1000 meters of a new route on the buttress on the left side of the north face of Thalay Sagar (UIAA VII, 80° ice). We ascended the entire buttress from the n...
Aguja de la S, Ascent. Brad Schilling and Michael Clifford climbed the lower south summit, approaching it from the west side, in mid-January, 1997.
Illiniza Sur, Southwest Face. After two previous visits in poor weather we made a new route on the southwest face of Illiniza Sur on September 13, 1982. Our team consisted of Jorge and Delia Montopoli and me. The approach to this face is much more...
Mount Torment-Forbidden Peak Traverse, Cascades. The mile and a half long, truly Alpine ridge running from Mount Torment (8200 feet) to Forbidden Peak (8900 feet) had long been an objective of mine. On July 26, 1958 Buck Seller and Edward Cooper a...
Sierra Nevada Ascents. By the time you read this, a new Sierra Nevada Climber’s Guide will have appeared, authored by R.J. Secor and published by The Mountaineers. The following is a list of previously unreported Sierra Nevada routes that arrived ...
Annapurna Dakshin Tragedy. An 11-man Greek expedition had hoped to climb the east face of Annapurna Dakshin (Annapurna South) by the east face to the east ridge, the same route as the Hong Kong team in 1976. Four members, Deputy Leader Dimitris Bo...
El Potrero Chico, Battle Royale. Going to Mexico was perhaps the best decision I ever made. It is a land of happy people, cheap beer, and soaring limestone walls. What more could a climber ask for? Arriving at Homero’s campground, I flipped throug...
Saipal East, Attempt. Bruno Baumann, a professional adventurer and writer who lives in Munich but is an Austrian citizen, gave up his hope of making the first ascent of a peak that he has decided isn’t actually there. The peak is listed by Nepal’s...
Bhagirathi II. Japanese climbed Bhagirathi II by its east face. On October 16, leader Yoshiki Yamanaka, Masaki Hayashi, Yoko Mihara, Yuki Sato, Hitoshi Tsuge and a porter reached the summit (6512 meters, 21,364 feet) from Camp III. They had to biv...