Crescent Towers, Bugaboos. My wife Carolyn and I made a new route by following the indistinct ridge which forms the right side of the large gully on the southwest side of Crescent Spire. (The gully is listed as Route 3 in the guidebook.) The ridge...
Gurja Himal. The Tomari Expedition consisted of Yoshimi Yakushi, leader, Nobutaka Ito, Masaaki Nukui, Seiichi Kanayama, Tomokuni Saegi, Hiroyuki Sakai, Akira Inoue and Kenichi Shimoda. They left Pokhara on September 21 and got to the last village ...
Mountain Sickness by Peter H. Hackett, M.D. New York: AmericanAlpine Club, Inc., 1980. 29 pages.The opening paragraph begins “The past decade has witnessed an explosion in mountain traveling by skiers, back packers, climbers, runners, hunters, fis...
Huascarán. Philip Hocker, Eric Adelberger and I joined forces with the remnant of the Bleser party, Gerry Roach, Gary Palmer and Dan Garnett, and the six of us reached the south summit on July 30. As we neared the top a mild blizzard descended on ...
Mount Bonneville, South Ridge of South Peak. Carol Lenz and I climbed the south ridge of the south summit of Mount Bonneville on August 16. From the notch at the base of the ridge, we ascended a fourth-class pitch on the east side to the top of th...
In late November 2008 Bernd Rathmayer and I traveled to Chile’s Torres del Brujo, north of Patagonia, to find virgin rock. After several days of travel with horses and mules, we installed base camp at the foot of these great granite walls for th...
Annapurna, First Ascent of East Ridge and Traverse. Our members were Frank Tschirky, leader, Dr. Bruno Durrer, Norbert Joos, Ueli Bühler, Fritz Hobi and me, all guides. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II and III on September 17, 19, 27 and Octo...
Jacobs Ladder, Monument Valley. On May 5 Fred Beckey, Bob Degles and I made the first ascent of this 300-foot tower, which is identical in appearance to Standing Rock in Monument Basin Canyonlands, Utah. NCCS III, F6, A3; 53 pitons, 4 chocks, 7 bo...
California, Yosemite National Park, Lost Arrow Direct. On 6 April Rov Naasz (20) and Andrew Embick (19) were climbing the Lost Arrow. Naasz was leading the last pitch of the South Face. He later described the nailing as very difficult and his thir...
Amfiteatro, Cáscara de Huevo, A Través del Huevo. “So you are back!” Daniel welcomed me with his huge smile. Yes, I was back. I couldn’t forget the beauty of the valley, nice people, and huge amounts of unclimbed rock. Sunniva Hoel Aass (Norwegian...
Chicago Mountaineering Club. During 1972 the club scheduled a greater than usual number of weekend outings at Devils Lake, Wisconsin. The popularity of the club’s campground near the lake brought together many non-members and climbing organization...
Middle Triple, Kichatna Spires, First Ascent by a Woman. On July 12, Michele Morseth and I were flown to the Shadows Glacier of the Kichatna Mountains. We spent the first three days ferrying loads over a pass to the Sunshine Glacier. The next day,...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTION (LEADER), INADEQUATE PROTECTION (RELAYER), EXCEEDING ABILITIES, OFF ROUTE, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Canmore Area, East End of RundleOn the evening of Monday, July 8, 1991, rangers at Peter Lougheed P...
ROCKFALL, FALL ON ROCK, BELAYER LOST CONTROL WHEN STRUCK BY ROCKArizona, Prescott National Forest, Granite MountainOn December 12, Elise Anderson (21), Jeff Rome (21), and Chris Shanehof- fer (26), went to climb at Granite Mountain. Their route fo...
Poincenot, complete west ridge (DNV Direct) and Blood on the Tracks, free ascent; Desmochada, variation to The Sound and the Fury. In 2007 I was in the Torre Valley with a large group of Canadians. The weather was cold and dismal, making for less-...
Link Sar and smaller granite towers in the Kondus Valley, attempts. In May-June Steve Larson, George Lowe, Joe Terraveccia, Andy Tuthill, Eric Winkelman, and I explored several possible first ascent routes on Link Sar (7041m) in the Kondus Valley....
Glacier Ice, by Austin Post and Edward LaChapelle. Seattle: The Mountaineers, Seattle-London: University of Washington Press, 1971. 110 pages, 130 photographs and illustrations.Ice is an essential element of the alpine landscape. It is largely res...
Manaslu Attempt. Six Spaniards led by Juan Fernando Azcona tried to climb Manaslu by its northeast face. They got to 6400 meters on October 1.Elizabeth Hawley
Malubiting Central (7,260m), second ascent. On July 25 two Spanish climbers, Raul Magdaleno and Álvaro Novellón, made the second ascent of Malubiting Central. The Malubiting group is a complex of high and rarely visited summits on the watershed ri...
Skiing Off Mount Everest. In the pre-monsoon season, German Reinhard Patscheider skied down the normal South Col route on Mount Everest from 8400 meters. His record was beaten on September 27 when Frenchman Pierre Tardivel skied from the South Sum...