Chogolisa Attempt. On August 5, my partner Andrew Brash (Canada) and I reached Chogolisa Base Camp on the Baltoro Glacier. Our objective was to try a new route on the northeast face. This was quickly put to bed when we watched avalanches strafe ou...
Pinnacle Peak. Our group of fifteen traveled by bus over the White Pass-Yukon route and up the Alaska Highway to the air strip at Kluane Lake only to learn that our first objective, Mount King George, had just been climbed. We became a climbing ex...
Wyoming, Tetons, Symmetry Spire (2). On July 15 John Biehn and Albert Sickler (31) had completed a successful ascent of Symmetry Spire and were descending via the Symmetry Spire Couloir. They were glissading down the snowfield when Sickler slipped...
Pucahirca Oeste, Tayapampa, Alpamayo, Cordillera Blanca. We arrived in the Quebrada Tayapampa towards the end of May, setting up Base Camp in the disused campamento on the shore of Pucacocha at 14,750 feet. Jim Jolly, our leader, who was suffering...
AMS–ASCENDING TOO FAST, CLIMBING "ALONE"–BUT DEPENDING UPON OTHERSAlaska, Mount McKinley, Denali PassOn June 25 at 1940, Ranger Meg Perdue received a radio call from Volunteer Ranger Karen Hilton at the 17,200-foot high camp regarding a solo climb...
Ama Dablam Attempt. Our expedition was composed of Bernard Dufour, Philippe Gérard, Dr. Eric Lasserre, Guy Peters, Gérard Pétrignet, Jean Raphoz, Gérard Vincent and me as leader. Unfortunately heavy snow on the southeast ridge forced us to give up...
Liberty Bell, Northeast Face. In June of 1966 the Barber Pole Route was climbed by Sandy Bill, Frank Tarver, and Cindy Wade. From thetop of the Bong (the large rock projection at the base of the northeast face) the route goes upwards to a ledge wh...
FALL ON ROCK, OFF ROUTE, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONAlberta, Canmore, Mount Fable, Southeast RidgeOn August 28, F.L. and S.H. were climbing the Southeast Ridge of Mount Fable (Alpine II, 5.5). F.L states: “ When we got to the base of the buttress, it wa...
Phuparash. The members of the Charlotte Mason College Himalayan Expedition were Dave Robbins, deputy leader, Linda Rutland, Mike Rafferty, Tony Mercer, John Whittock, Dr. John Burslem, Captain Kayani, liaison officer, and I as leader. The original...
Coast Range, Waddington Group. Amid considerable activity (46 ascents) by a large Harvard Mountaineering Club party (21 people), based on the upper Tellot Glacier during an unusually fine four weeks, a few new routes and attempts were made. On Aug...
Mount Everest, Winter Attempt, 1981. Six Japanese climbers and five scientists and reporters, led by Naomi Uemura, failed to make the second winter ascent of Mount Everest by the South Col. They climbed the Khumbu Icefall and made Camp I at 19,850...
Middle Chief, Main South Peak. Located south of Dutch Miller Gap between Summit Chief and Little Big Chief, the true summit of this peak is about 2 feet higher and 75 feet south of the normally accepted summit. It is virtually unattainable except ...
In August Brent Obinger and I completed a new free line on the Incredible Hulk. Jonny Copp and I had started this line in July 2006, but had had to turn back slightly below mid-height due to incipient seams and no bolt kit.Amazingly, with all the ...
Thamserku, North Face Attempt. A Sangaku Doshikai expedition was made up of Shomi Suzuki, leader, Katsuhuki Masunaga, Koji Okano, Noboru Okada and Dr. Toshitaka Sakano. Base Camp was established at 12,800 feet on April 2 and Advanced Base Camp at ...
Saipal. Our plan had been to climb Saipal (23,079 feet) from the north, but we were prevented from starting from Pithorgarh because of the Inner Line. We had no other choice but to approach the mountain from the south, starting at Tanakpur on Sept...
Manaslu Tragedy. A Japanese expedition led by Noboru Yamada attempting a winter ascent of the normal route, the northeast face, of Manaslu was given up when Takashi Sakuma fell some 650 feet to his death from an altitude of 24,600 feet. Sakuma, Fu...
Iowa Mountaineers. 1968 was an enjoyable and eventful year. The annual banquet attracted 162 members from six states with Nicholas Clinch the guest speaker. An excellent series of 19 film-lectures were presented by world travelers and explorers wi...
Tirich Mir Attempt. The Innsbruck Mountain Rescue expedition led by Kurt Pittracher and composed of Horst Bergmann, Dr. Peter Mangutsch, Manfred Mehrli and Dr. Raimund Margreiter hoped to climb Tirich Mir by the Carinthian route. It will be rememb...
High Sierra, the overlooked middle. I don’t get it. The High Sierra has largely been ignored for new routes in recent years. Yeah, there is some great stuff going on at either end of the range, like Peter Croft tearing up the Incredible Hulk (late...
Aconcagua, North Face. Two members of an Italian expedition, Claudio Schranz and Mauro Ferrari, climbed Aconcagua via the Polish Glacier from the Berlin shelter on January 25. Schranz remained at the shelter and on January 27 made a new route on t...