The North American Andean Expedition 1958Leigh OrtenburgerUPON return from an expedition which had no other purpose than to attempt mountain ascents, from an expedition on which a very good friend died of pneumonia almost at the very beginning, fr...
HARRY FIELDING REID1859-1944When an ardent mountaineer becomes a professional geologist whose chosen fields of research include the mechanics of mountain building and the operation of glaciers, the combination is a happy one. Sport and study then ...
EXPOSURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT AND PHYSICALCONDITIONING, WEATHER, INEXPERIENCEWashington, Mount RainierOn March 8, 1993, at 0920, RMI senior guide George Dunn radioed to Paradise that three independent climbers would need to be rescued. The climbe...
Washington, Mt. Adams—On June 30, at 2:15 A.M. a party of six men from Yakima, Ellensburg, and Toppenish started the ascent of Mt. Adams by the Adams Glacier. Bob McCall (35) and Don Jones (19) comprised the first rope; Mike McGuire (20) and David...
Trisul’s Aleš Kunaver Memorial RouteVlasta Kunaver, Planinska Zveza Slovenije, YugoslaviaTRISUL, THE FAMOUS MOUNTAIN with its three summits, had long fascinated us. Trisul stands for the three-pointed trident of the goddess Nanda, Shiva’s consort....
California, Mt. Darwin—On August 13, Mrs. Hunt (42), her husband, and son were descending Mt. Darwin in a storm consisting of thunder, hail, snow and rain. They had traversed the ridge and were descending a snow chute above the Darwin glacier to t...
FROSTBITE, WEATHERAlaska, Mount McKinley, Muldrow GlacierOn June 4, at 1130, Wendt Andreas (34) of the High Dreams expedition checked in at the 14,000 foot Ranger Camp. Andreas had frozen all his fingers on both hands. His companions Mario Bornsch...
Mount Russell’s East FaceCharles TownsendWE HAD SEEN THE PEAK both from Hunter and Foraker—it stood out like a shark’s fin on the horizon—and the Washburn photos in the rangers’ notebooks got us even more fired up. Mount Russell had been climbed t...
Ulamertorssuaq, Jacques Cousteau. It was reported that in 1997, Spanish climbers Miquel Angel Gallego, José Luis Clavel, José Matas and José Seiquer put up Jacques Cousteau (F6c A4, 1000m) on the left side of Ulamertorssuaq’s west summit. Further ...
Meru North and Shivling II. German Bahillo, Juan Carlos Bahillo, Simón Elias and I arrived at Base Camp at Tapovan at 4400 meters on September 4. Our first climb was a new route on the 1250-meter-high east face of Meru North (6450 meters, 21,162 f...
Aguja de la S. A Japanese solo climber made several unsuccessful attempts at climbing a new route on Aguja de la S’s west face in November, 1995. Further details are lacking.Cameron M. Burns
Mount Hayes, Southwest Face. After climbing the east ridge of Deborah, Carl Tobin and I hauled loads on top-heavy, overloaded sleds over a 9450-foot col and down onto the Susitna Glacier. We were able to dump half our loads on the lateral moraine ...
Memphis Mountaineers, Inc. The Memphis Mountaineers had a productive year despite what seems to be a slow but steady reduction of available climbing spots. The 1992 membership consists of 63 members not only in Memphis, Tennessee, but throughout t...
Chomo Lonzo, North and Central Summits, first ascents. An eight-man French team of Stéphane Benoist, Yann Bonneville, Aymeric Clouet, Yannick Graziani, Patrice Glairon-Rappaz, Chris- tophe Moulin (leader), Christian Trommsdorff, and Patrick Wagnon...
Chimborazo, Pico Nicolás Martínez. Of the four peaks of Chimborazo, its lowest (c. 5570 meters, 18,275 feet) is the most attractive and most difficult. It was named “Nicolás Martínez” after a great Ecuadorian pioneer of the early 1900s. In 1983, t...
Potash Road/Wall Street, Desert Spindrift. In the middle of September Nathan Martin and I climbed a new route that went to the rim overlooking Potash. Our route began with an existing route called Pinhead (5.10). We then continued up the prominent...
Tahoma Glacier Route, Mount Rainier. On June 8, 1958 an interesting variation of the Tahoma Glacier route was made by a group of Tacoma Mountaineers, Leroy Ritchie, Larry Heggerness, Allan Van Buskirk, Edward Drues, Bob Walton, Monte Haun, and Mar...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, BELAYER ERRORNorth Carolina, Crowders Mountain State Park, Gumby's RoofRingo Willoughby (31) and a female friend were top-rope climbing in the Gumby’s Roof area on Crowders Mountain during the afternoon of Saturday April 21. ...
California, Mt. Shasta. On 9 October George Smith (28) and Henry Dodge (27) were descending the North Wintun Glacier on the east side of the summit of Mt. Shasta with Smith leading the descent. The party was unroped, but equipped with ice axes and...
Neacola Mountains, first full-length ski traverse. Next time you’re in Anchorage on a sunny evening, go downtown to Fourth Street and have a pint at Simon and Seafort’s Grill. As you hydrate, look through the picture windows across Cook Inlet. The...