PHOTOGRAPHS of unclimbed Kate’s Needle (10,002 ft.) and Devil’s Thumb (9077 ft.) led me to plan, for my first postwar opportunity, a trip to the icy wilderness W. of the Stikine River. Although they do not rise so high as the great mountains farth...
Chumpe (Jatunriti) traverse, Colquecruz 1 attempt (Alcamarinayoc). Intrigued by the scarcity of information despite extensive research, Amy Bullard and I spent three weeks exploring and climbing in the northern Cordillera Vilcanota from April 21 t...
Mount Logan, Altitude, Ascents, Attempts. Using GPS equipment, a joint Royal Canadian Geographical Society, Geological Survey of Canada and Canadian Parks Service determined that Mount Logan is 5959 meters or 19,545 feet tall. The 1992 climbing se...
P c21,325, Kanjiroba Himal. The Shigakukai Osaka Alpine Club expedition was led by Kazuyuki Abe, accompanied by three others. On October 25 from Camp III at 18,375 feet Koji Mizutani and Shoji Miyoshi climbed to the summit of P c21,325, which lies...
McKinley, 1981 Michael KennedyThin MIST veiled the weak sun; another gust of wind-driven snow swept the rocks above as I zipped up my pants and returned to the tent. Another brew, a bit of cheese, a few crackers; more time to think, to brood, more...
With special thanks to David Harrah for his help in compiling this year's sectionJOSEPH STETTNER1901 - 1997With the passing of Joe Stettner at age 95 on March 14, we must acknowledge the loss of one of the most remarkable figures in American mount...
FALL ON ROCK – MISJUDGED PENDULUMCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanAt 0545 on July 18, Eric Ruderman (32) and Skiy DeTray (31) started a one- day ascent of the Nose on El Capitan (31 pitches, VI5.9 C1, per SuperTopo). They were a strong team ...
Saser Kangri Attempt. Our Franco-Indian expedition jointly led by K.C. Mehra and me was never really able to make an attempt on Saser Kangri. The reason doubtless was the undeclared war in the Siachen region between India and Pakistan. We French w...
More About Mountain MysticismHoward PalmerTHE topic “Mountaineering and Mysticism” which has lately received attention from literary climbers in books and shorter papers, is a tempting one. Almost everybody who has climbed at all harbors ideas of ...
This Climbing Game: An Anthology of Mountain Humour. Walt Unsworth, compiler. Drawings by Ivan Cumberpatch. Viking, Harmondsworth, 1984. 220 pages. £9.95.Drawing upon guidebooks, factual accounts, and fantasy, Walt Unsworth has assembled some fift...
The Age of Mountaineering, by James Ramsey Ullman. 352 pages, 24 photographs, 6 maps and sketches. Philadelphia and New York: J. B. Lippincott Co., 1954. Price, $6.00.Banner in the Sky, by James Ramsey Ullman. 252 pages. Philadelphia and New York:...
P 20,101 and. others, South Parbati Region, Kulu. A small English party comprising John Cardy, Geoff Cohen, Dick Isherwood and me visited the South Parbati region. We enjoyed excellent weather and conditions and climbed six peaks, including P 20,1...
Armed with much useful information provided by Mike Royer after his expedition to the region in 2010 (AAJ 2011), we traveled from Mallorca to Bishkek, arriving July 14. Two days later we started our long road trip to the mountains in the company o...
Lumpy Ridge and Estes Park Rock Climbs. Scott Kimball. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1986. 184 pages, black and white photographs, line drawings. $15.00 (paper).This guidebook represents a compilation and updating of Scott Kimball’s three earlier work...
Pik Engels, west face to foresummit, Russian Roulette II. In August the Alpine Fund of Tajikistan organized an expedition to Piks Karl Marx (6,723m) and Engels (6,510m) in the Gorno-Badakhshan region of Tajikistan. The expedition comprised Murod A...
Wisconsin Hoofer Mountaineers. The activities of the Hoofer Mountaineers for 1956 included three major trips to western areas in addition to regular Sunday practice climbs at Devil’s Lake State Park, Wisconsin. These bluffs are an ideal place to q...
Fitz Roy’s West FaceRobert Gálfy, lames, Slovak Mountaineering AssociationTranslated by Tamara KoricanskaCZECHOSLOVAKIAN climbers led by Michal Orolin spent nearly two months from December 27, 1981 to February 17, 1982 on Fitz Roy, hoping to ascen...
Yogeshwar. Our team was composed of Steve Adderley, Malcolm Bass, Julian Clamp and me. On October 2, the latter three made the second ascent of Yogeshwar (6678 meters, 21,910 feet) by a new route on the objectively dangerous south face. We thought...
STRANDED, ROPE STUCKNorth Carolina, The Amphitheater, Linville Gorge Wilderness AreaTwo climbers with limited experience on moderate trad routes planned on spending several days camping and climbing at Linville Gorge. On November 23, they hiked in...
Four first ascents in the Ganj’dur (Ganj-i-Tang) Valley. Before meeting Yannick Graziani to make the first ascent of Pumari Chhish South (featured in this Journal), Christian Trommsdorff led a small group of experienced clients to Pakistan’s Shims...