The Black Canyon of the Gunnison River. In the last five years the Black Canyon has become one of Colorado’s most important climbing areas. All five of the state’s Grade VI big-wall climbs are found here, as well as many Grade IV and V free climbs...

The First Ascent of Mount ErasmusJohn C. OberlinBACK home after vacation in the summer of 1949, I had not been too sure that I would care to pack in to Mount Erasmus.1 The 2500 feet of steep bushwhacking with heavy packs which Bob Bishop and I had...

Spokane Mountaineers. A pilot cross-country ski race and several ski tours were 1966 winter highlights. Thirty people finished the formal climbing course with a graduation climb of Mount Hood in May. On 14 Wednesday evenings members practiced rock...

STRANDED, PARTY SEPARATED—OFF ROUTE, LATE START, INEXPERIENCEWyoming, Grand Tetons, Grand TetonOn August 14 at 2230, rangers at the Lower Saddle hut were contacted by Chris Riha (39), Rosa Kanning (24), and John Murphy (23) who indicated that two ...

Northeast Ridge of Huayna PotosíRoman A. LabaAS JOHN HUDSON and I began to consider leaving Patagonia, I told him about a beautiful climb to be done in the Cordillera Real of Bolivia, a rock and ice ridge, which was the boundary between the arid a...

Kula Kangri I (7,538m) (Künla Kangri, Main Peak), attempt. This assault on the main peak of Kula Kangri was combined with a training program for members of the Nihon University Alpine Club. Due to bad weather and an accident we were not able to mo...

Second Peak, Middle Palisade—First Ascent From the NorthA route having been found up the north face of the culminating peak of the Middle Palisade, there remained the desirability of discovering one up the second highest summit northwest of the fi...

Wedge Peak. My brother William, Phil Colbert and I arrived at McKinley Park and proceeded up the Muldrow Glacier that night nearly to the turn. For a few minutes we disputed with a grizzly bear the camp site on the fine meadow just short of the gl...

FALL ON ICE, NO EXPERIENCENew Jersey, Delaware Water Gap, Mt. TammanyOn February 5, Karl Martinelli (19) and two friends hiked to the summit of Mt. Tammany by an established trail. The three, deciding to take a short cut, attempted to descend the ...

Lhagu Glacier, ski expedition and probable first ascent of Pt. 5,928m. In the past our Silver Turtle Group, composed of elderly mountaineers, has climbed several 8,000m peaks. More recently we have been concentrating on unexplored regions, notably...

Saltoro Kangri. The Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto, Kyoto University, sent an expedition under the leadership of Dr. Tsunahiko Shidei to join the Korakoram Club of Pakistan. Taian Kato, Dr. Kazuhiko Hayashi, Dr. Atsuo Saito, Kazumasa Hirai, Yatuka ...

Yosemite Valley, various activity. The big news in the Valley this year, once again, was the freeing of big wall routes, specifically on El Capitan. While this activity has become more popular, the usual suspects remain at the forefront. Yuji Hira...

FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING UNROPED, ALTITUDE SICKNESSAlaska, Mount McKinleyNicholas Collins (age unknown) was a member of the three-man British McKinley expedition on the West Buttress route of Mount McKinley. On April 3, 1981, the group was flown int...

The Mazamas of Portland have decided to conduct their 1931 outing into the Wallowa Mountain country, a beautiful and rugged region, from July 18th to August 2nd.

Shadow Peak, South Face. Seldom climbed even from the usual Garnet Canyon approach, Shadow Peak had never been ascended from Avalanche Canyon until this climb by Ted Vaill and Hank Janes on September 3. A long couloir led to a shallow cave at the ...

Cerro Piergiorgio, Esperando La Cumbre, and Other Activity. Maurizio Giordani and I made the first ascent of the northwest spur of Piergiorgio (east summit) via Esperando La Cumbre (VI+ Al, 850m), which included couloir ice up to 75° (WI4) and mix...

Cho Oyu, Various Ascents in the Post-Monsoon. Thirteen teams attempted Cho Oyu, and all were successful via the Standard Route from the west side in Tibet. Most of them were commercially organized. A total of 75 men and two women summitted from Se...

American Alpine Club Research FundGLACIERS OF THE GANNETT-FREMONT PEAK AREA, WYOMINGMark F. MeierIT was the author’s privilege to spend the summer of 1950 studying the glaciers of the higher regions of the Wind River Mountains. This study was made...

Mounts Triumph and Despair, Winter Ascents. The winter of 1986 was an unpredictable one in the Cascades. During the last two weeks of February, six feet of new snow were followed by torrential rains and spring-like clearing. On March 1, Mark Bebie...

Kamet, 1979. Kamet (25,447 feet, 7756 meters) was climbed by a new route from southeast of Meade’s Col on June 5, 1979 by Captain R. Yadav, Inder Singh, Amar Singh, Ajaib Singh, Dalchand, Bhuraram and Sangh Singh and on June 7 by Major Pratap Sing...