New York, Shawangunks. On 22 April it was planned that John Huels (28) would lead Northern Pillar, seconded by David T. Estroff, Francis de Monterey would lead Southern Pillar, seconded by Robert Jahn; MacRush, a member of the Harvard Mountaineeri...
FAILURE OF RAPPEL, PITON PULLED OUT, FAILURE TO FOLLOW ROUTE Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Rundle RidgeOn August 16,1986, around 0800, David Doucette (38) and Bruce Magee (35) set out to climb the Guides’ Route (5.7), a 17-pitch climb on the east end ...
Ship of FoolsTwenty-five days on a Karakoram giantby Jared OgdenStanding at the base of Shipton Spire, Mark Synnott and I shivered silently, neither wanting to tell the other our fears or doubts about the climb we were about to begin. Our intended...
The Alpine Club of Canada. The Alpine Club of Canada celebrated its 90th Anniversary in 1996 with an anniversary dinner that also honored four Canadians who had contributed to Canadian mountaineering and who had reached the summit of Mount Everest...
FALL ON ICE–RAPPEL ERRORAlaska, Denali National Park, Mount WakeOn April 23, Jed Kallen-Brown (23) and Lara Kellogg (38) were climbing the Northeast Ridge of Mount Wake (9,100 feet) in the Ruth Gorge of Denali National Park and Preserve. The pair ...
Parachutes in the St. Elias RangeWalter A. Wood, Jr.“THE McKinley is four days behind schedule. No, the Louise is full up. You haven’t a chance there.” Such was the news which greeted one unbearded and five bearded members of the fourth expedition...
El Peñón (Cerro) Blanco, El Vedauwoo. In March, on the 800'+ south face of Cerro Blanco, Todd Skinner and I established a new line to the right of the rightmost line pictured on p. 290 of the AAJ 2002, joining this existing line at the very top of...
WALTER LEROY HUBER1883–1960Walter Leroy Huber became a member of the American Alpine Club in 1919 and was Western Vice-President 1935–1937. He was born in San Francisco January 4, 1883; all four grandparents came across the plains as pioneers. Aft...
Garhwal Himalaya. An American-British expedition to Nanda Devi, the highest mountain in the British Empire was extremely successful this summer, as chronicled elsewhere in these pages. In addition we understand that this past fall a small group of...
Candlestick Tower, Canyonlands. This 450-foot butte was climbed for the first time in the middle of March by John Byrd, Jim Dunn, Doug Snively and me. We approached on foot from Island in the Sky. After two unsuccessful attempts on the looser nort...
JOHN DUPUY GRAHAM1896-1981John D. (Jack) Graham was one of the most vigorous members of the American Alpine Club. Although he began his hiking and mountaineering in 1927, he did the major number of his climbs after he had passed the age of fifty. ...
H. W. Tilman: The Seven Mountain-Travel Books. Diadem Books, Ltd., London; The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1983. 896 pages, black and white photographs, maps. £14.95/$30.00.This book does not belong in a mountaineer’s library, it belongs on the bedside...
Summary of activities. Livingston Island is a rugged mountain massif, home to the highest point of the South Shetland Islands, off the northwestern tip of the Peninsula. It is also the location of a number of scientific research stations from diff...
Peak 6111m, Ascent. An Indian expedition led by Jyotrimay Dutta made an ascent of Peak 6111m in August. This peak is situated near Baralacha La, to the north of Suraj Tal. The team set up Base Camp on August 20 at 4870 meters and Camp I at 5330 me...
The North Wall of Mount Edith CavellYvon ChouinardMount Edith Cavell, in Jasper National Park, rises on its north side a full 4000 feet above its base. Even in normal years its cliffs are plastered with ice and snow. For Dan Doody and me it stood ...
Pumori, Winter Attempt, 1990. South Tiroleans led by Anton Stocker attempted to climb Pumori by the normal southeast face route but they could get no higher than 6750 meters, which they reached on January 22, 1990.Elizabeth Hawley
FALL ON ROCKOregon, Smith Rock State ParkOn Sunday morning, November 4, Jim Anglin (55) was descending into the Lower Gorge by a Fourth Class climbers’ way at the southeast end of Smith Rock State Park when he lost his footing and fell about 100 f...
The Environs of Silver Star. Three separate climbing trips were made the summer of 1952 to the granitic wonderland around Mt. Silver Star, one of the highest peaks in the Chelan-Methow region, harboring the most eastern glacier in the state of Was...
Cerro Torre, Maestri-Egger Route Attempt, Domo Blanco and Cerro Doblado. From April 2 to June 17, Gerold Dünser, Toni Ponholzer and I were based at the Bridwell Camp, hoping to climb the Maestri-Egger route on Cerro Torre. We stocked supplies at t...
Army Mountaineering Association Expedition, 1959, Chogo Lungma Region, Karakoram. Last summer (1959) our Army Mountaineering Association sponsored an expedition to the Karakoram. The object was to introduce new people to the area and to train them...