Momhil Sar Attempt. The members of our Catalan expedition were Dr. Pep Cañellas, Albert Cornelias, Xavier Font, Dani Ramírez and I as leader. After arriving at the roadhead at Nagar, we took four days to Base Camp, established at 4450 meters on Ju...

Mount Mather. On March 29 Steve Hollenhorst and I climbed the northeast spur of Mount Mather (12,123 feet) in Denali National Park and Preserve. From a high camp on the Eldridge Glacier, we climbed mixed ice and snow.Alan Ewert

Stimson Bullitt 1919–2009Stim Bullitt, by his own admission, was born with a silver spoon in his mouth, and he spent the rest of his life trying to live it down. Being delivered to school in his mother’s Rolls Royce, he would lie on the floor and ...

The summer of 1998 was a productive one for new route activity in Rocky Mountain National Park. At least 20 new routes were established, three quarters for which I was responsible. I kicked the season off with Terry Murphy, finding a fine new line...

Alaska and the WarBradford WashburnIT is hard to believe that it was only two years ago today that webade farewell to the other members of the Mt. Hayes party in Fairbanks and started the first leg of our homeward trip by air to Edmonton. In past ...

Mounts Illinois and Vermont, and Hawaii Peak, First Ascents. Under clear skies on May 8, Kelly of Wrangell Mountain Air flew Brad Metz, Keith Schumacher and me onto a small unnamed glacier north of the Walsh Glacier near the Alaska/Yukon Border. T...

1951-961959-9619971997USACAN.USACAN.TerrainRock346441510012Snow2038303439Ice18287713River13300Unknown22601Ascent or DescentAscent306043910019Descent18912954715Unknown3247321Immediate CauseFall or slip on rock2392222729Slip on snow or ice7741543311...

29,000 FeetCharles S. HoustonUTNTIL a man actually stands on the summit and returns to tell about it, no one will know for certain that Everest can be climbed. But ignoring the technical climbing problems, one can speculate on the physiology invol...

TABLE II1951-791980Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCanadaAlberta86381497216British Columbia123542236320Yukon Territory1219304021Ontario10417000Quebec9223102East Arctic51...

The American Alpine Club provides resources for climbers and explorers to attempt new challenges, conduct scientific research, and conserve mountain environments. The AAC awards nearly $40,000 annually, although the size and number of awards vary ...

A Journey to Western SichuanA return visit to the Shaluli Shan reveals troublesome changes in the mostly unclimhed peaks of the Litang Plateau} China.Tamotsu NakamuraAfter a fascinating visit to the eccentric collection of Christian churches in th...

Grenelle-Spearman Traverse. Greg Collum and I helicoptered to the Plummer Hut near Mount Waddington on the last day of a record-breaking heat wave in the Coast Mountains. All too soon we were trapped in the hut, reading novels and drinking tea. Sh...

BAD WEATHER, EXHAUSTION, OFF ROUTE, CLIMBING ALONE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTColorado, Thatchtop MountainOn December 16, 1982, Michael Dorsey (24) left the trail head for a solo ice climb in the Thatchtop-Powell area. The weather conditions were margin...

Vinson Massif. I was extremely lucky to be invited by Frank Wells and Dick Bass to go with them to Antarctica as part of their “Seven Summits Odyssey.” Just getting there was a major feat of logistics. We chartered a specially modified DC3 with th...

Chearoco and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real, and Sajama, 1985. After an acclimatization climb on May 25, 1985 of Colquejahui in the Hampaturi group, Bavarians Georg and Josef Seifried and Robert Wagner on May 26 placed Base Camp at 4650 meters a kil...

AVALANCHEAlaska, Mount ForakerOn April 19, 1984, Steve Barker (33), Tom Anninger (41), Dick Lohman (45), Sharon Svenson, and I (34) flew into the base of Mount Foraker. We set up camp and prepared for the load carry, which we would do the next day...

INEXPERIENCE–PARTY SEPARATED AND UNROPED, DEHYDRATION- EXHAUSTIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressJust before 0600 on the morning of June 8, Alexey Volkov (27) contacted VIP Michael Dong at the 14,200-foot Ranger Camp. Volkov was concerned tha...

The Exploration of the Cariboo Range from the EastRaymond T. ZillmerIN referring to the Cariboos in this article, I have in mind only that higher portion of the Cariboo Range which is E. of the Raush River and the headwaters of the Azure River, an...

The Watch Tower (Canadian Rockics)First ascent by R. S. Whitney, J. A. Corry, and B. B. Gilman on August 3rd and 4th, 1932. This rock pinnacle rises sharply above Cataract Brook on the east side of the valley leading from Hector, B.C., in to Lake ...

Puscanturpa Norte, Pasta Religion, New Route. From May 24 to June 24, we (Lionel Daudet, François Lombard, Xavier Baudry) opened a rock climbing route on the northwest face of Puscanturpa Norte (5652m). This face is extremely steep, grooved with h...