Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Inadequate Protection/Belay, California, Tahquitz Rock, The Step

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTION/BELAYCalifornia, Tahquitz Rock, The StepOn October 19, we believe that David Kellogg (32) and Kelly Tufo (41) had completed the climb and had finished up on Super Pooper or White Maiden’s Walkway. They were taki...


Feature Article AAJ
Five Treasuries of Great Snow

  THE three-mile-long ridge of Kanchenjunga—third highest of the Himalayan giants—at no point drops below 8300 meters (27,231 feet). This splendid, wild mountain group, with its 13,000-foot-high bulwarks of rock and ice, not only thrilled mountai...

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| Published 1978 | Author Marek Brniak


Feature Article AAJ
The West Face of Gasherbrum IV

The West Face of Gasherbrum IVTo the top of the Shining Wallby Jae-hag Jung, Corean Alpine ClubWhen Sung-Dae Cho and three other Corean Alpine Club* members climbed Mount McKinley’s Cassin Ridge in 1988, it was not only the first Korean ascent of ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Gasherburm II, Gasherbrum I ( Hidden Peak) and Broad Peak

Gasherbrum II, Gasherbrum I (Hidden Peak) and Broad Peak. We arrived at Base Camp at the foot of Gasherbrum II on May 18 after a 12-day approach. On May 22 we set up a camp on the plateau at 19,350 feet between Gasherbrums II and III but the weath...


Book Reviews AAJ
Avant-Premières à l'Everest

Avant-Premières à l'Everest, by Gabriel Chevalley, René Dittert, and Raymond Lambert. Introduction by Dr. Ed. Wyss-Dunant. 304 pages, 36 illustrations, sketch maps, and appendices. Paris and Grenoble: Arthaud, 1953. Price, $3.50.This fine account ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse, Inadequate Equipment, Frostbite, Inexperience, Alaska, Mount McKinley

FALL INTO CREVASSE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT,FROSTBITE, INEXPERIENCEAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn May 2, 1988, the five person Chinese Hong Kong expedition lost a cache at 3450 meters on the West Buttress route on Mount McKinley due to deep snow accumulati...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Tirich Mir from the South

Tirich Mir from the South. Our expedition had as members Artur Hajzer, Rafal Cholda, Jerzy Mamica, Janusz Mikolajczyk, Ludwik Musiol, Andrzej Zielinski and me as leader. On July 24 we established Base Camp at 14,450 feet on the South Barum Glacier...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Idaho, Sawtooth Range

Sawtooth Range. Jerry Fuller and I chose the unclimbed south face of the Lower Aiguille as a pre-season conditioning climb. We well deserved the unexpected difficulties encountered in three rather exhausting chimneys and the final traverse à cheva...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse, Unroped, Public on Glacier, Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabasca Glacier

FALL INTO CREVASSE, UNROPED, PUBLIC ON GLACIERAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Athabasca GlacierJuly 25, 1990, was a warm, sunny day, as a family of four from Calgary, Alberta, stopped at the Columbia Icefields in Jasper National Park and took a walk on ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Latok III, West Face, Attempt

Latok III, West Face, Attempt. In July, Jay Smith, Kitty Calhoun, Steve Quinlan and Ken Sauls attempted an alpine-style ascent of the unclimbed west face of Latok III (6949m) just off the Biafo Glacier in Pakistan. The team made an initial carry o...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow — Unable to Self-Arrest, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience, British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Castle Glacier

FALL ON SNOW – UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE,British Columbia, Canadian Rockies, Castle GlacierOn Aug 3rd J.C. (22) and A.T. (24), on a day off from their university geology field trip, left their camp located at the ba...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, Torres del Paine National Park, Torre Central, Golazo, Second Ascent, and First BASE Jump

Torre Central, Golazo, second ascent, and first BASE jump. Tim Akhmedkhanov, Igor Pekhterev, and leader Arkadiy Seregin (all from Russia), with Sergiy Kovalov from the Ukraine, arrived in Puerto Natales on January 9,2007, and five days later start...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Pirámide de Garcilaso and Alpamayo in the Cordillera Blanca, and Jutunhuma and Cayungate I in the Cordillera Vilcanota

Pirámide de Garcilaso and Alpamayo in the Cordillera Blanca, and Jutunhuma and Cayungate I in the Cordillera Vilcanota. An expedition of the Swabian Section of the Deutscher Alpenverein established its base camp on the eastern shore of Parrón Lake...


Feature Article AAJ
Northwest Ridge of Deborah

SLEEP was fading away with the help of hot coffee, and once again I became aware of the glacier stretching away from my tent door. Somewhere down that glacier the drone of an airplane rose and fell, steadily coming closer. By the time I stumbled...

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| Published 1976 | Author Richard Nolting


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Kyrgyzstan, Western Kokshaal-too, Bolgandy West Valley, Pik Margesson, Pik St. George, Shining Tor, Pik Nantucket, Pik Heliya, Pik Jessica and Jeremy, Pik Stapledon, Pik Sally; Pik 4,705 m, Attempt

Bolgandy West Valley, Pik Margesson, Pik St. George, Shining Tor, Pik Nantucket, Pik Heliya, Pik Jessica and Jeremy, Pik Stapledon, Pik Sally; Pik 4,705m, attempt. In August David Jorden, Chris Lloyd, Tom Sutherland, Ben Sutton, and I traveled to ...


In Memoriam AAJ
John Dale Mendenhall, 1911-1983

JOHN DALE MENDENHALL1911-1983John Mendenhall died in Seattle July 30, 1983, three weeks after suffering a stroke. John, his wife Ruth, and other family members were vacationing in the Tetons when John was stricken on the night before a planned cli...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Andes, Yanauccha and Huaytapayana Ranges

Andes, Peru, Yanauccha and Huaytapayana Ranges. Richard Kimball, my wife, Alice, and I spent the second week of August, 1953, climbing and exploring the Yanauccha and Huaytapayana ranges of central Peru. We drove our equipment and food to Huancayo...


Accident Tables ANAM
Reported Mountaineering Accidents, Table I

Number of Accidents ReportedTotalPersonsInvolvedInjuredKilledUSACANUSACANUSACANUSACAN195115221131952313517131953242712121954314131819553439286195646725413195745532818195832392311195942256231019219604746412378194196149961144510144196271190164019119...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Kedarnath South Face Attempt

Kedarnath South Face Attempt. James Garrett, David Pollari, Mel Brown and I spent the month of September envisioning a new route on the south face of Kedarnath to the western crest of the massif. We established Base Camp behind the southern latera...


Book Reviews AAJ
Du Kenya au Kilimanjaro

Du Kenya au Kilimanjaro, by Roland Truffaut. 251 pages, 2 maps, 2 sketches, 16 pages illustrations. Paris: Rene Julliard, 1953. Price bound, Fr. Fcs. 1090.This little book is the story of the small French expedition of 1952, which visited Africa a...