Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Greenland, Sukkertoppen

Sukkertoppen, Southwest Greenland. Another Italian expedition under the leadership of Guido Monzino made two first ascents near the Evighedsfjord. A Danish expedition operated in the same region. This was under the leadership of Carsten Berg-Søren...


Club Activities AAJ
Iowa Mountaineers

Iowa Mountaineers. The Club completed its eighteenth year of operation with an unusually large number of activities. Approximately 720 different members participated in the indoor and outdoor events sponsored by the Club. Fifteen major week-end ou...


Accident Reports ANAM
British Columbia, Northern Selkirks

British Columbia, Northern Selkirks. On August 12th Phil Koch and Christopher Winship, both of the Dartmouth Mountaineering Club, were attempting the west face of Mount Adamant. This was Winship’s second attempt on the route. A week earlier he and...


Accident Reports ANAM
Slip on Ice, Inadequate Belay, Inattention, Fatigue, British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Tahumming Glacier

SLIP ON ICE, INADEQUATE BELAY, INATTENTION, FATIGUE British Columbia, Coast Mountains, Tahumming GlacierFor Bob P. and Doug W., August 28, 1992, was day eight of a 21-day traverse of the Tahumming Horseshoe near the head of Toba Inlet. Their objec...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Tibet, Mt. Joijin Kangsa, Ascent

Mt. Noijin Kangsa, Ascent. The Japan Teacher’s Party 2000 Noijin Kangsa expedition consisted of one person, Tadakiyo Sakahara. The goal was to climb Mt. Noijin Kangsa (7206m, 29.9° N, 90.1° E) by the east ridge. The dates of the expedition were Ju...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal, Kedarnath Dome, East Face Attempt

Kedarnath Dome, East Face Attempt. We originally planned to climb a buttress in the middle of the unclimbed east face of Kedarnath Dome. After our arrival, we discovered so much rockfall on the lower section that we changed our objective to the li...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Bolivia, Huayna Potosí, West Face

Huayna Potosí, West Face. Jim States, John Roskelley and I climbed the west face of Huayna Potosí in two days with the second bivouac on the summit. The mountain has two west faces. The left one was climbed by Janney and party in 1970. The right o...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Bona and Churchill

Bona and Churchill. The Alpine Club of Tokyo University of Education Expedition was composed of Tamao Tokuhisa, leader, Hideki Yamamoto, Koji Saito, Makoto Kobayashi, Jiro Kenmochi and Takao Inukai. I was to have been of the party, but family illn...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Tripura Hiunchuli II

Tripura Hiunchuli II. The members of our expedition were Mariano Diaz, Vincent Devlamynck, Francis Parrot, Olivier Pohl, Michel Lentz, Juany Pérez, Didier Demesy and I as leader. We approached via Jumla in western Nepal. We set out with 35 porters...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Arctic, Ellesmere Island

Ellesmere Island. The 1976 Ellesmere-Makinson Expedition arrived in Grise Fiord via Kenn Borek Air from Resolute on July 27; our goal was exploratory mountaineering in the high arctic. The party consisted of Curt Saville, George Wallerstein, Peter...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Pucaraju Colmillo Negro

Pucaraju Colmillo Negro. From the trekking pass of Alto de Pucaraju, this free-standing rock spire appears as a sharp black obelisk below and to the right of the main summit of Pucaraju (16,486 feet). As I approached it after soloing the main summ...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Cravasse, Climbing Unroped, Unafmiliar with Route, Party Separated, Inexperience, Washington, Mount Rainier, Fuerer Finger Washington, Mt. Rainier, Fuhrer Finger

On the morning of May 10, four climbers (ages 23–34) left their camp on the Wilson Glacier at approximately 02:45 to climb the Fuhrer Finger Route of Mount Rainier. About 0830, while ascending the route using skins and skis, unroped, and at 13,200...

| Published N/A


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Utah, Zion National Park, Various Ascents

Zion, Various Ascents. During late winter, Dan Stih and I made the first ascent of the Altar of Sacrifice, as well as the remaining four Towers of the Virgin in Zion National Park. Over three days in early March, we climbed and fixed the grotesque...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Wyoming, Wind River Range, Fremont Peak

Fremont Peak. On September 15 Gerry Holdsworth and I ascended the west face of Fremont, from the upper Titcomb Lakes, reaching the summit at 9:30 A. m. via a route which was cairned part of the way. We then followed the north ridge of Fremont unti...


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Greed, Exceeding Abilities, New Hampshire, Mount Meader

STRANDED, GREED, EXCEEDING ABILITIESNew Hampshire, Mount MeaderIn October 1994, two youths (c. 18) spied some climbing gear on rappel stations on a cliff of Mount Meader in the Carter Range. They had previously done a rock day at a summer camp and...


Notes AAJ
Ixtaccihuatl

Ixtaccihuatl. The Aztec name means “White Woman,” the Spaniards call it, less euphoniously, La mujer gordata.The first ascent was made in 1889 by James de Salis, a Swiss resident of Mexico City, and was closely followed by that of H. Remsen Whiteh...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Northwest Territories, Logan Mountains, Terrace Tower, East Buttress

Terrace Tower, East Buttress. Despite rain and snow for twenty straight days, between June 30 and July 6 Steven Stine, Bill Gibson and I managed to complete a route on the prominent east buttress of Terrace Tower between the first and second cirqu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Washington, Cascade Mountains, Northwest Twin Spire, Southeast Face

Northwest Twin Spire, Southeast Face. On July 28, Dave Adams and I climbed a new route on Northwest Twin Spire in the Chilliwack’s. From the northwest edge of the 7700-foot col between the northwest and southeast spires we scrambled up a prominent...


Accident Tables ANAM
Table II

TABLE IIAccidentsGeographical Districts1947-19571958Atlantic States—North254South40 Central20 Colorado520Utah & New Mexico80 Wyoming354 Montana & Idaho80Accidents1947-19571958Arizona & Nevada50California456...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Contiguous United States, California, Sierra Nevada, Temple Crag, North Peak, The Crystal Way, Previously Unreported

Temple Crag, North Peak, The Crystal Way, Previously Unreported. The Crystal Way (IV 5.10a) provides a day-long adventure up the 1,500-foot wall of North Peak (upper buttress) on semi-difficult ground. Scott Scully and I climbed the route in June,...