Notes on logistics for climbers. Climbing permits for Sichuan Province are relatively easy to acquire. Contrary to previous reports, no one has ever been declined a permit. Certain parties just refused to pay the fee and hence were “denied.” The c...
Mount Everest in the Pre-Monsoon. Besides the May 10 tragedy on Mount Everest, a number of significant mountaineering accomplishments were achieved. Among the best were Hans Kammerlander’s 17-hour ascent of the North Col/North Ridge route and subs...
California, San Jacinto Mountains, Mt. San Jacinto. On 9 February, Jackson Jordan Sr. (47) along with four boy scouts ranging in age from 12 to 16 years, set out to make a winter ascent on Mt. San Jacinto (10,831) in the San Jacinto Mtns. of South...
Grand Teton, Alex Lowe Memorial Route. On October 5 Mark Newcomb and I climbed a new route on the north face of the Grand Teton. The route ascends about 1,000' of new terrain, beginning just left of the start of the 1936 route. A wet late summer a...
The Fin, Nanuq. From August 27 to September 7, Natxo Barriuso, Txus Lizarraga, Raul Melero and I, all from Basque Country, made the first ascent of The Fin in Sam Ford Fjord via the route Nanuq (VI 5.10 A3, 600m) on the wall’s west-northwest face....
Thunder Mountain, Northeast Face and Glacier, Bella Coola Area, British Columbia Coast Range, 1986. In September 1986, Reed Dowdle, Han Timmer and I approached by float plane from Bella Coola to Compass Lake. We hiked through tundra to a tarn bene...
FALL ON ROCK, PARTY SEPARATED, INEXPERIENCEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount RundleOn the evening of August 3, 1983, two strangers, Hugh (26) and Dan, met at a campsite near Banff and arranged to scramble up Mount Rundle together the next day. The e...
Gangotri I, 1980. We climbed Gangotri I (6672 meters, 21,890 feet) by the northeast ridge, first climbed by British in 1952. We placed Base Camp at 14,750 feet at Rudugaira Kharak on September 15, 1980. Camp I was established on the 17th at 16,900...
Kangikitsoq Fjord Area, Exploration and First Ascents. In August, an Anglo-American team led by Jim Lowther explored the Kangikitsoq Fjord area. This fjord, which was previously unexplored by climbers, lies 25 miles east of Tasermiut Fjord. The te...
Ngojumba Kang Attempt. An 11-man Japanese-Nepalese expedition led by Kazumi Shigeto had hoped to climb Ngojumba Kang by its south or southeast face and then traverse to Cho Oyu by the east ridge of that mountain. Five of the members were Sherpas. ...
Mikis Fjord, ascent of Red Peak. Hoping to find anchorage in Kangerdlussuaq Fjord, which would give access to the Lemon Mountains etc, a small British team sailed in mid-May from Portsmouth, UK, via Iceland to the East Coast of Greenland. Bad weat...
Morocco, Overview. During 1998, whilst working in Morocco, I took the opportunity to explore the enigmatic pleasures of the Atlas Mountains. Morocco is accessible and user- friendly for the tourist, but remains a niche destination as far as mounta...
Cho Oyu Solo Winter Ascent, 1988. Until early this year, only six men had climbed an 8000er alone, none in wintertime. Spaniard Fernando Garrido took five days for his lonely ascent, beginning on February 2, 1988 from a camp at 5850 meters near th...
Eekayruk, Falsoola, Brooks Range. Starting from the pipeline road on August 17, our group crossed the Dietrich River and followed Kuyuktuvuk and Trembley Creeks, then crossed into the Hammond River valley. After hiking over Kinnorutin Pass we clim...
Nanga Parbat Correction. On page 287 of A.A.J., 1983, the line showing the route was drawn a little too far to the right in the upper part of the photograph. The route ascended the couloir and passed the rock outcrop on the left.
Dolomitenland, by L. Franzl. 16 pages of trilingual text, with 160 full-page illustrations. Bolzano: L. Franzl, 1948. Price, $3.50.This book does not deal with climbing, but contains some of the most magnificent photos of landscape, peasant life, ...
Cerro Barros Arana, 1990. In December, 1990, Doug Tompkins and my wife Barbara flew two Cessna T206s to Patagonia. Doug and I reconnoitered unclimbed peaks from the air. We originally thought of trying Cerro Castillo, but when we flew close to the...
Mountaineering in Colombia. I visited the central Andes of Colombia, ascending, some peaks previously climbed a number of times. An exploration of Nevado Quindío (5400 meters in official maps) revealed that there are indeed five rock peaks, locall...
Utah—South Face, Squaw Peak: On April 11, 1952 Mr. Hansen (27) parked his car in Rock Canyon and climbed to the top of Squaw Peak. He was apparently much distraught as searchers following his trail later found his shoes, wallet, and other items of...
Cashan Oeste. Mark Richey and I made a new route and, we believe, the second ascent of Cashan Oeste (5701 meters, 18,705 feet). On July 25, we approached the mountain from the Quebrada Rajucolta via the steep, complicated slopes that define the lo...