VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkSix rock climbing accidents were reported in 1989. Four were solo climbers, and three falls resulted in serious fractures. The other two falls were not adequately protec...

FALL FROM A SNOW-COVERED BOULDERWashington, North Cascades National Park, Eldorado PeakOn July 18th, a party of four mountaineers were on approach to Eldorado Peak on the lower snow slopes of the Eldorado Glacier. While pausing on the upper side o...

Khatung Kang. A small Swiss expedition consisting only of Engineer Dériaz, his wife Marguerite, and Arthur Baumgartner, left Katmandu March 28 and traveled to Thorungtse Pass above Muktinath. Mme. Dériaz and Baumgartner reached the 20,670-foot pea...

ICE TOOL PLACEMENT FAILURE, FALL ON ICE, BROKEN ANKLEWashington, Mount RainierAt 1400 on July 28, 1991, Cohn Clubine (43) suffered a broken ankle at the 1600 meter level of the Nisqually Glacier on Mount Rainier. John, along with 12 other students...

Washington, Mt. Baker—During the weekend of July 22-24th there was a college outing on Mt. Baker. During the descent of the 29-man party on the west side of the mountain, they came to the last steep snow slope on the snout of the glacier. The lead...

ROPE STUCK ON RAPPEL, STRANDED California, Yosemite Valley, Royal ArchesOn June 16, 1993, around 1630, Erika Heine (19) and Tracy Walker (29) stuck their rope while rappelling on the Royal Arches descent route. They were at the third rappel statio...

Peak 13,332 (On the main crest between Mt. Darwin and Haeckel). The first ascent of this mountain was made from the west on July 19th, 1933, by Neil Ruge, Ballah Ballantine and Glen Dawson.

Jarjinjabo Range, first ascent of unnamed rock tower. Four Japanese climbers, Eiji Daigo, Yuriko Kowaka, Naoki Ohuchi, and Taizo Yoshida, made the first ascent of an unnamed granite tower in the Jarjinjabo Massif above Zhopu Pasture. This region o...

Lower Karcha Parvat (6,060m). A three-member Japanese team, led by Tsuneo Suzuki, established base camp in the Karcha Nala at 4,420m. They made Camp 1 at 4,700m and Camp 2 at 5,200m, from where Ritsuyu Matsubara and three high-altitude porters cli...

FALLING ROCK—Quebec, Mont St. Hilaire. Michel and Daniel (18) DeRoy finished climbing the Voie Normale on Mont St. Hilaire on October 22, 1972, and stopped for a cigarette and unroped. Michel told his brother to stay where he was and descended to ...

OF General InterestTwo Anniversaries. The year 1949 marks the centenary of the birth of Albert Heim (1849-1937) and the 65th anniversary of the death of Arnold Guyot (1807-84), two of the foremost glacial geologists of the past century.Born at Zür...

FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, CLIMBING ALONE Alberta, Waterton National Park, Expert’s ChoiceOn February 10, a middle-aged male was attempting a solo ascent of the lower left pitch of Expert's Choice (WI4). He apparently was dragging a rope ...

A Polish Expedition composed of four climbers, Wojsznis, Szcepansky, Osieckj, and Parysky, made a number of climbs along the Chilean-Argentine frontier in the Province of Catamarca, among them, Ojo del Salado (6870 m.), Nevado Picis (6780 m.), Nev...

Manaslu. An expedition of four Swiss, two Netherlanders and a Frenchwoman was led by Swiss André Georges. On October 19, Georges and Swiss Armand Salamin reached the summit of Manaslu (8163 meters, 26,781 feet) via the northeast face. The Frenchwo...

WILLIAM JAMES BUCKINGHAM1936-1990Bill Buckingham was a striking exception to the folklore that American mountaineers come from the flatlands, that those who are bom and raised in the mountains seldom develop an interest in climbing them. Bom on Ju...

Good Morning Midnight: Life and Death in the Wild. Chip Brown. New York: Riverhead Books, 2003. 300 pages. Hardcover. $24.95.A reviewer often struggles to separate his judgment of a book—the author’s work—from his personal feelings about the subje...

Aguja Guillaumet, Northeast Ridge and Other Climbs. Eduardo Brenner and Eduardo Moschioni (Centro Andino Buenos Aires) opened between January 3 and 25 a new route on Aguja Guillaumet. They climbed the northeast ridge, making a bivouac in the ascen...

Ten Japanese under the leadership of Hiroshi Fujii ascended unclimbed Chiring (7090 meters, 23,262 feet), which lies in the Panmah Mustagh on the Chinese-Pakistani frontier. The mountain had unsuccessfully been attempted by Japanese in 1986 and 19...

Sheep Rock, Main Dome, South Platte Area. The obvious thin crack on this beautiful dome previously had been an aid route (III, 5.8, A2). Steve Spaar, Don Cardinale and I, in May of 1982, freed the sustained second pitch at 5.11. We named it Charle...

AVALANCHENew Hampshire, Mt. WashingtonSunday, April 6, 1980, was a clear, relatively warm, late-winter day. A winter of light snow and seasonably cold temperatures had resulted in excellent ice climbing conditions throughout the White Mountain are...