Finger of Fate, Sawtooth Range. Dick Dorworth and I made this new route in August. We followed several small open-books on a dihedral 75 feet to the right of the existing route, which goes up the prominent right-facing open-book. The first 75 feet...
Note: Climbs of Mts. Alverstone and Cook, border peaks between Alaska and the Yukon (Canada), are covered in the Canada section of this Journal.
Chicago Mountaineering Club. Despite our midwest location, interest in mountaineering continues to draw new members into the organization, and several active climbers joined our roster this year. During 1961 the club sponsored 15 week-end outings ...
Uzun Brakk. A Scottish expedition led by Alexander Dickson made the very difficult ascent of Uzun Brakk (6422 meters, 21,069 feet) by the northeast face. The peak, which lies north of the Biafo Glacier, is also known as Conway’s Ogre. The summit w...
Korona, North Face of First Tower, Solo Dream. From May 6-9, Alexander Ruchkin established the route Solo Dream (Russian grade 5B, or 6a A4, 600m) on the north face of the First Tower of Korona (4810m) in the Ala Archa National Park. Korona lies a...
Quebrada Carhuascancha. My wife Ann, Nate Adams and I headed up the Quebrada Carhuascancha from Huántar on the eastern slope of the Cordillera Blanca. We were accompanied by the Peruvians Glicerio and Eustaquio Henostroza and Oscar Aranda. Our pla...
Sarapo, South Face Ascent and West Face Ski Descent. Italians Toni Valeruz and Tita Weiss made the ascent of the west face of Sarapo in seven hours in late June. Valeruz had intended to descend by paraglider, but the winds seemed too strong. Inste...
FALLING HAUL BAGCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn September 16, 1985,1 received a call indicating that some park visitors had observed a climber fall from El Capitan. I responded with climbers Grant Hisker and Bill Russell, and we began interviewing s...
This previously unattempted peak, which lies at the head of the Batura Glacier in the northwestern Karakoram, was climbed in July. Success was marred by a fatal accident which during the descent befell the two members who reached the summit. The e...
(a) MOUNTAIN FATALITIESCalifornia: (1) Yosemite Valley. On 22 March 1949 Kenneth A. Haines (19) and Peter B. Yeazell (18), from Fresno, California, were killed in a fall in the vicinity of lower Yosemite Falls. The boys were tied together with a ...
McKinley, Traverse of Southwest Face. On May 15, after reaching the summit of Denali via the Cassin Ridge, Bill Pierson, Antoly Bukneev, Joel Butler, Tim Maryon, Greg Smith and I opted to return to our high camp at 17,700 feet on the Cassin and at...
Utah, Mt. Olympus. On 3 August Malcolm Wills (24) and Carol Clawson (20) were climbing a technical route on Mt. Olympus. Neither climber had suitable boots or other climbing gear. They were tied together by approximately 50 feet of ¼ inch nylon pa...
Stanford Alpine Club. The Stanford Alpine Club continues to emphasize preparation for and climbing in Yosemite Valley through weekly local practice climbs. Many informally organized trips supplemented scheduled club trips to Yosemite Valley in the...
Annapurna via Khangsar Kang (Roc Noir) Attempt. Eight French and three Nepalese climbers were led by Marc Batard. They hoped to climb over Singu Chuli (Fluted Peak) and Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome) to reach the east ridge of Khangsar Kang and thence ...
Parbati South, Kulu. Six past or present members of Aston University and a doctor travelled overland in an ex-RAF ambulance to India. After three weeks of negotiations in Delhi, we received a permit to attempt Parbati South. This 20,101-foot uncli...
During September, Roger Everett and I, with our wives Christine Richardson and Dairena Gaffney, visited the Haptal Nalla. We approached Kishtwar via Galhar, Athole, Machail and Sumcham in five days and set up Base Camp at Bujwas at 3400 meters opp...
Volcdn Michinmahuida, West Face. The icy dome of Michinmahuida Volcano (8,071'), near the town of Chaiten in northern Chilean Patagonia, is rarely visited because of bad weather and a long approach trek through the cold jungle. In three days, fini...
Appalachian Mountain Club. It was an off year in 1971 for the biennial mountaineering training camps. A 1972 camp is planned where eastern climbers may obtain experience in glacier travel and the ascent of rock, snow, and ice-covered peaks. The al...
Ama Dablam, New West Face Variant in Winter. Glenn Dunmire and I made an alpine-style winter ascent of a new variant on the west face of Ama Dablam. The face has three main features, two of which are gullies overhung by hanging glaciers. The left ...
Tres Cruces, Ojos del Salado and other peaks, Atacama Province. A scientific-sporting expedition was organized by Valparaíso mountain clubs in order to climb in the Tres Cruces massif, located on the Chilean-Argentinian border, west of Ojos del Sa...