Latok II Attempt, and Ascents of Ogre Thumb and Spaldang. It was reported that a German expedition powered by the bold young climber Alexander Huber reached a height of 6600 meters on Latok 2 before turning back in the face of unsettled weather an...
East Peak, Mount Logan. During June and July Albert Nickerson, Jr., Leif Patterson, Edward Carman, Jr., Walter Gove and I made the third ascent of the east ridge of the east peak of Mount Logan. All except Gove are members of the Harvard Mountaine...
Castle Rock Spire. In September TM Herbert and Tom Frost did a new route on the face of Castle Rock Spire. The climb follows a crack system that eventually connects with the original route about two-thirds of the way up the face. The first two pit...
Vallunaraju Group, Cordillera Blanca. On July 28 seven Americans left Huaraz and climbed up the Quebrada Mullaca to establish Base Camp at Lake Mullaca. That same afternoon they began the reconnaissance of the lower icefall. On the next morning Sa...
Hummingbird Ridge’s Thunderbird VariationDavid Nettle, UnaffiliatedThe Logan Effect: A phenomenon whereby everything you see is actually four times longer, steeper and more difficult than it appears. See also: The Hummingbird Ridge.STANDING BY THE...
The High Sierra: Wilderness of Light. Photography by Claude Fiddler. Foreword by David Brower. Introduction by Steve Roper. Chronicle Books, San Francisco. Hardcover, 132 pages, color and black and white photography. $25.00.The High Sierra: Wilder...
Bandako*, Central Hindu Kush. During the summer months, Michael and Ruth Wortis, Sandra Merrihue, Steve Jervis, Bob Jahn and I drove across Europe and the Near East and climbed in Iran and Afghanistan. After a leisurely, five-week drive from Paris...
Good Neighbor Peak, southeast ridge and clarification; Mt. Vancouver, St. Elias Range, Alaska and Canada. Paul Barry and I climbed a new route on the southeast face of Good Neighbor Peak (15,700') during May 18-21. We also completed the two-mile t...
Putha Hiunchuli. An expedition led by Nicolaas van Lookern Campagne climbed Putha Hiunchuli (7246 meters, 23,775 feet) by the south ridge to the south face, much the same route as that climbed in 1972, 1978 and 1979. Netherlander Dr. Rinus Lamers,...
The Shining Mountain: Two Men on Changabang’s West Wall, by Peter Boardman, with material by Joe Tasker. London: Hodder and Stoughton, 1978. 192 pages, 15 black-and-white photos, 12 color plates, 2 sketches. Price £5.95.The climb that may well be ...
Upernivik Island, West Greenland. Eight members of the University of St. Andrews, Scotland, spent seven and a half weeks on the compact mountainous island of Upernivik at 71 °N in the Umanak region of west Greenland. The island had been visited pr...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Ouray, Ouray Ice ParkJohn Ohlson (61) was leading Pic O’ the Vic (WI 4) in the Ouray Ice Park. He led up to a stance at a cave—about 20 feet up, and placed an ice screw. He then cont...
First on the Rope, by Roger Frison-Roche. Translated by Janet Adam Smith. 246 pages. New York: Prentice-Hall, 1950. Price, $2.75.Written by a mountaineer and skier who is thoroughly familiar with the region of Chamonix, First on the Rope has alrea...
FALL ON SNOW—INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, OFF ROUTE, PARTY SEPARATEDCalifornia, High Sierra, Mount Ritter, Southeast GlacierOn August 9 the body of Otto Loenneker was found by Mono County Mountain Search and Rescue at the base of the Southeast Glacier on...
Nanga Parbat, Diamir Face. A Franco-German-Austrian expedition was led by Pierre Mazaud and composed of Michel Afanassief, Michel Berruex, Raymond Despiau, Kurt Diemberger, Hans Engl, Walter Cecchinel, Hubert Hillmaier and others. They climbed the...
Staunings Alper. Our Lancaster University (England) climbing expedition, consisting of Jim Taylor, Bill Band, and me, was organised in conjunction with the Northern Universities Natural Sciences expedition led by Dr. G. Halliday, and three of the ...
CLIMBING ALONE, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Alaska, Mount McKinleyBrian Hoover (26) registered with the Talkeetna Ranger Station on June 17,1987, to solo climb both the southeast ridge of Mount Foraker and the Cassin Ridge on Mount McKinley. Mountaineerin...
Tirich Mir. The Army Mountaineering Association Tirich Mir Expedition had as members of the party Corporal J. Anderson, Captains J. H. Cranmer, M. W. H. Day, G. F. Owens, B. K. Porter and R. A. Summerton, Surgeon Lieutenant P. N. Dilly, doctor, Ca...
Everest and Lhotse. Our 19-member expedition was led by Choi Chang-Min. I was the climbing leader. We prepared the way to Camp II, advancing through the Khumbu Icefall in partnership with the Americans. After Camp II at 6400 meters was set up on S...
FALLING ROCKS–DISLODGED BY CLIMBERS, PARTY SEPARATED, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchTwo separate parties (totaling four people) were climbing Avalanche Gulch in the poor September conditions (loose rocks, lack of snow). Unf...