FALLING ROCKAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount FayOn August 2, a party of three were climbing the center ice bulge on the North Face Ice routes when one of the climbers was hit by rockfall, sustaining a lower leg fracture. The party lowered the injur...
Shivling Ascents. It was reported that the husband-and-wife team of Stevie Haston and Laurence Gouault ascended the Original Route of Shivling in one and a half days from basecamp. Other ascensionists were Ed Douglas, Tom Prentice, and three Czech...
Huascarán on Two Artificial Legs. In early August the Englishman, Norman Croucher, who has two artificial legs, climbed to the summits of both Huascarán and Pisco. He was accompanied by Terry Tullis and his wife Julie, Dennis Kemp, Mike Welham, M...
Attempts on Tirsuli and Nanda Devi East, Garhwal. Our seven-man team left Delhi on April 15, and with seven Sherpas and over 100 porters reached the Tirsuli Base Camp, at Rugus, whence the Poles had made their attempt in 1939. Strong winds and hea...
For those interested in South American mountaineering, the May-June number of Andina contains an article on an attempt on Tupungato and the ascent of Tupungatito (both of which were ascended by the well-known Fitzgerald expedition in 1897) accompa...
Tehipite Dome, Wall of Ages. Last summer John Fehrman, Bryan Sweeney, and I completed a route (Wall of Ages V-VI 5.11+ A0) up the main south face of this magnificent dome in Kings Canyon National Park. This three-year project had involved Richard ...
Cordillera Huayhuash. Kwansai University’s expedition was led by Dr. Hirohito Sugihara and consisted of Akira Kozuki, Kunio Hisano, Yoshihiko Kondo, Tsutomu Nakano, Toshimi Yonekawa, Yoshihiro Ikeuchi, Shin-ichi Hibi and Yuichi Hasegawa. Leaving L...
FALL ON ROCK, FAILURE OF RAPPELLER, CLIMBING UNROPEDNorth Carolina, Crowders MountainIn April 1981, a person was rappelling from Crowders Mountain when he knocked off an unroped climber. (Source: T. C. P. Zimmermann)AnalysisWhile there are no furt...
Amphitheater Mountain, Sunday Morning Buttress. On July 27 Don Monk and I did a short climb on this buttress located one mile northeast of the summit. It is prominent from Cathedral Pass. The route begins on the left of a 50-foot pillar and contin...
P 8300, Buckskin Glacier, Alaska Range. From March 25 to April 9, Rick Erst, George Menard, Ted Moore, Pete Robinson and I skied from road to road up the Ruth Glacier and down the Buckskin Glacier, crossing via 7950-foot “Window Pass” to the nor...
Manaslu II. A third Japanese expedition attempted to climb Manaslu II (Peak 29) (25,705 feet) but failed to reach the summit.
Three Teeth, Southeast Tooth, Northeast Face, 1987. In September 1987, Bruce Runnals and I climbed this five-pitch route left of the original Rowell-Jones-Beckey route. All five pitches were 5.10 (III).Al Swanson
Geek Towers. Jim Bridwell and Mark Clemens reached the top of two narrow, converging buttresses between Yosemite Falls and the Lost Arrow Chimney, which they named Geek Towers. About 800 feet up; 1 day. NCCS III, F10, A3.ROYAL ROBBINS
Simvo. An Indian Army Medical Corps team was led by Major Subhendu Sen. Base Camp was established on the Zemu Glacier beside Green Lake at 16,200 feet on September 16. Three more camps were set up at 17,500, 19,000 and 20,340 feet. On September 26...
Englishwoman Alison Hargreaves, Americans Henry Kendall, Marc Twight, Tom Frost and I were active in the Khumbu region near Everest during the pre-monsoon season, climbing two new routes and attempting a third. All were done pure alpine-style.Kend...
In May, Marko Prezelj and I visited Peru, where neither of us had been. We started our acclimatization with cragging on La Esfinge (5,325m). We first climbed the first three pitches of Cruz del Sur, originally graded 7c+ (5.13a), 7a (5.11d) obliga...
Leo Pargial. M.H. Johnson of Sherwood College, Nainital led a group of six students from St. Stephen’s College, Delhi. They made Base Camp a day above Nako below the Leo Pargial Glacier. Johnson and Duke climbed P 19,200, northwest of Base Camp, o...
Agujas Poincenot and Guillaumet, 1989-90. Much bad weather curtailed climbing during that season. Aguja Poincenot was climbed on January 4 via the Whillans route by Spaniards Rolando Luis Fernández, Ramón Portilla, Antonio Trabado and Czech Mirosl...
Hidden Peak Attempt. A French expedition led by Pierre Mazeaud, which was much publicized before its departure, apparently failed to climb Hidden Peak. No details have been made available.
Mazeno Peak Attempt on Northwest Face. José Luis Zuloaga, Kike de Pablo and I attempted a new route on Mazeno Peak (7120 meters, 23,360 feet) on the Diamir side of Nanga Parbat. We climbed alpine-style from July 29 to August 6. We failed to climb ...