Blockhouse, West Face. This short but impressive face was first climbed on July 8 by Al Read and Sterling Neale. After traversing right on easy rock nearly to the edge of the south face, they climbed up and slightly left for 80 feet to a ledge fro...
STRANDED, SOLO ICE CLIMBINGAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Cascade MountainIn December, 1990, a climber went to solo the Cascade waterfall when his partner decided not to go with him; temperatures were around -25C. He took a rope along, but his partner ...
Peaks Above the Biafo Glacier. Matthew Powell, Robert Rider and I of Cambridge University and Bruce Hubbard from St. Andrews University spent 3½ weeks climbing peaks above the Biafo Glacier in July and August. We made three first ascents and carri...
Cho Oyu. A Korean expedition led by Park Sang-Yeol crossed to the west ridge and west face of Cho Oyu from the south. On September 2, Hong Kyung-Pyo, Lee Dong-Yeon and Wangel Sherpa reached the summit.Elizabeth Hawley
Huila, Tolima and Cocuy peaks. “Andes-75,” a Polish expedition from Gdansk composed of seven speleologists and climbers led by Walenty Fiut, explored the main caves of central Colombia and also did some mountaineering in the Cordillera Central and...
Expeditions to Pakistan in 2002. In 2001 around 70 expeditions came to the Karakoram. However, with the change in political climate following the events of September 11 and reprisals in neighboring Afghanistan, plus the subsequent threat of an Ind...
Annapurna Dakshin Attempt. New Zealander John Madgwick and a companion failed to climb Annapurna Dakshin by its south face. Their high point of 5500 meters was reached on March 28.Elizabeth Hawley
A.A.C., Cascade Section. Fantastic climbing weather coupled with some very interesting functions made 1985 a great year for the Cascade Section. As usual our members compiled an impressive list of new routes and ascents in our local mountains and ...
Nanga Parbat, Mazeno Ridge, Rupal Face attempt. Steve House (leader), Doug Chabot, Bruce Miller, and I traveled from the Charakusa Valley [see report later in this section] to Nanga Parbat (26,660 ft) base camp below the Rupal (south) Face arrivin...
ARTHUR PAUL HARPER1865-1955On May 30, 1955, there died at Wellington, New Zealand, in his ninetieth year, our honorary member Arthur P. Harper1 and the last surviving founder of the New Zealand Alpine Club. The inaugural meeting of the latter Clu...
Pumori, West Face. The Alpine Club Unpo expedition was made up of Junji Matsuda, Minoru Takagi, Ko Hattori, Yoshinobu Mizuta, Fumiaki Sakoda, Kiyoshi Ikawa, Motoichi Ohgoshi, Keiji Nomura, Nobuyaki Kaneko, Miss Mutsuko Koyama and me as leader. We ...
Baruntse Ascents and Attempts in the Post-Monsoon. An expedition led by Ralf Dujmovits was composed of six Germans, one Swiss and one Czech. On October 15, Germans Dujmovits, Wolfgang Kunzendorf, Frau Helga Kowatsch, Manfred Kowatsch, Swiss Rafael...
STRANDED – LEADING TO EXHAUSTION AND DEHYDRATIONOregon, Smith Rocks, Monkey FaceOn Tuesday, July 14, 2009, Samuel Wilson (18) and his friend (17), both from the state of Washington, called 911 at 6:30 p.m. They had been climbing routes all day at ...
Mount Winchell, Southwest Arête. This beautiful knife-edge is pictured on page five of the Sierra Club book, Gentle Wilderness: The Sierra Nevada. The route is on the first ridge in from the right skyline which joins the north ridge about a hundre...
Everest Attempt. This large expedition was organized by Frenchmen Claude Jaccoux and Michel Vincent. It had two guides, Erik Decamp and Jean Clemenson, and a doctor, Corinne Beauvoir. There were 15 climbers, four of them women, and a film crew of ...
Saltoro Kangri Attempt. The Hokuryo Alpine Club’s expedition was composed of Shuhji Yamamoto, Kazuyu Namikawa and 12 others including two women. They arrived at Base Camp at 14,000 feet on June 3 and attempted the south ridge of Saltoro Kangri (25...
Ama Dablam. Tragedy struck the British party led by J. H. Emlyn Jones just as it seemed as if they would successfully make the first ascent of incredibly difficult Ama Dablam (22,500 feet). The group had climbed the hardest part of the northeast r...
Silverthrone and Mather. On August 11 Vern Tejas, John Dargis, Wally Orr, Terry Pearce, my wife Roni and I climbed Silverthrone by the Washburn route. Beautiful weather and views of Mather convinced us to do Mather as well. While Roni and Pearce, ...
Geographical DistrictsAccidents1947-19551956Atlantic States—North156South 20Central20Colorado 367Utah & New Mexico41Wyoming227Montana & Idaho71Arizona & Nevada50California 3110Oregon 211Washington327Alaska 40Practice Cliffs—all areas10...
The Needles, Warlock Needle, Romantic Warrior. In October John Peca and I spent three days on this magnificent seven-pitch route. The route is located on Warlock’s steep west face, on the southernmost of the three massive summit towers. A scramble...