Mount Ogden, 1986. In late June 1986 Bruce Tickell and I climbed Mount Ogden (Boundary Peak 86; 2281 meters, 7484 feet). It lies about ten miles south of the Taku River. We landed on the lake in front of the Wright Glacier, and hiked south on the ...
Bonnie Prudden, 1914–2011Bonnie Prudden, fitness pioneer and founder of Bonnie Prudden Myotherapy, passed away at her home in Tucson on December 11, 2011. She was 97. “You can’t turn back the clock, but you can wind it up again,” she would tell he...
Dhaulagiri, South Face and Traverse. On September 23 Stane Belak, Cene Bercic, Emil Tratnik, Rok Kolar, Jože Zupan and Janez Sabolek reached Base Camp at 12,950 feet below the south face of Dhaulagiri. Despite bad weather, the lower part of the fa...
Squamish Chief, Bald Egos, New Route. In June, Conny Amelunxen and I braved rain, long falls, the unknown, and more rain in an attempt to put up the longest aid route on the Squamish Chief, Bald Egos (5.9 A4). We climbed the wall in impeccable Squ...
Stone Crusade: A Historical Guide to Bouldering in America. John Sherman with a foreword by John Gill. American Alpine Club, Golden, Colorado, 1994. 452 pages, black-and-white photos. Softcover $30.00, hardcover $40.00.Comment: A classic that esta...
French Exchange. Scott Frye and I arrived in Paris on May 18 to attend the International Climbers’ Meet, sponsored by the Fédération Française de Montagne. For the next twelve days we were to travel and climb throughout France with a group of 40 c...
Surprise Glacier peaks. On May 26 Steve Mock and I flew into the upper end of the southern lobe of the Surprise Glacier, a remote and lower-elevation area (Talkeetna C-5 quad map) in the southwest portion of the Alaska Range, located between Mt. D...
Women’s Overland Himalayan Expedition. On May 5, 1958 Mrs. A. A. Davies, Mrs. A. F. Deacock, and Mrs. Evelyn Sims left England to drive overland in a Land Rover to India. We arrived in Delhi six weeks later, June 16, exactly on schedule! We wished...
Two pitches up the classic route Birds of Fire, I looked 400' left to a series of inviting cracks and corners. One more route appeared on my ever-growing to-do list. When the RMNP guidebook and other founts of local knowledge came up short...
Shishcipangma, Ascent and Tragedy. Josu Bereziartua, Félix and Alberto Inurrategi arrived at BC together with the expedition from Alava formed by Luis Angel Rojo, Juan Vallejo, Juanito Oiarzabal and Jose Luis Zuloaga. On September 16 during an acc...
Pier Giorgio, West Face. Italians Renzo Vettori and Mario Manica made an attempt to climb the west face of Pier Giorgio in the southern summer of 1983-4. They returned in 1985 and on October 23 they got to the summit by this same face (5.10, A2). ...
Ojos del Salado Area, Various Ascents and Observations. From February to March, I was in northern Chile and Argentina in the area south of Ojos del Salado with a group of seven, all from Germany: Martin Blumenstock, Fritz Felber, Michael Fuchs, We...
FALLING ROCK–DISLODGEDColorado, Boulder Creek CanyonOn July 16, Emergency squads rescued a man who was pinned on the bank of Boulder Creek when a rock the size of a couch crushed his leg this morning. The man, identified as Boulder resident Dougla...
Various new routes. On October 4, from a base camp at Alcacocha Lake (4,600m), students of the Casa de Guias de Huaraz made five new routes on three mountains.On Nevado Qampa (5,500m; also named Jampa or Maria Huamantilla) Johan Zárate and Alberto...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT California, Yosemite ValleyMike Brochu (31) and his partner, Mike Ewing, bivied at the base of the West Face of El Capitan the night of May 10, 1986. About 0110 on May 11, Brochu was leading the second pitch of ...
Washington State: (2) Olympics. On 20 July 1950 a group of boy scouts was descending Mt. Carey. Three of them got permission from the assistant leader to take a different route, along the side of a steep snow covered ridge. Peter Guimont, 16, lost...
Araca Group, Northern Quimsa Cruz. From June 16 to 27, our party of six climbed in the Araca group, a forest of granite towers of exceptional beauty that I had first visited in 1967. Gregory Johnson, Virginia Louise Porter and Scott Titteringham f...
North Tower of Rengo, Séptimo Arte. In February 2005 Francisco Rojas, Dario Arancibia, and I opened a new route, using capsule style, on the North Tower of Rengo, an almost unknown granite peak located in the central Andes of Chile. It is the bigg...
Mount Owen, First Ski Descent. One more of the major Teton summits has been descended on skis, this time Mount Owen by Bill Briggs and Rob McClure on June 21. Putting on skis on the east ridge about 150 feet below the summit, they descended to the...
Chip, Canyonlands. In October, Jeff Widen and Jeff Singer climbed Chip, which rises 240 feet, one of a pair of previously unattempted towers on the White Rim near Moab. Their route, Stuffin Nuts (III, 5,9, A2) takes a prominent line on the south f...