Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Himachal Pradesh, Peaks in Himachal Pradesh

Peaks in Himachal Pradesh. Dharamsura (White Sail; 6445 meters, 21,145 feet) was climbed by Scots led by A.N. Ridley. A peak in Bara Shigri (6225 meters, 20,424 feet), whose name was given by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation both as “Snow Cone...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California—Yosemite, Aquarius

Aquarius. In June, Jim Bridwell and Kim Schmitz put up a new line between the west buttress and the dihedral wall. The route starts near the left side of the great apron between these routes and meanders to a ledge about 1000 feet up, where the wa...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Bhutan, Kang Bum

Kang Bum. Japanese climbers placed their Base Camp south of this mountain at 4590 meters on October 18 and Camp I at 4850 meters two days later. On October 23 leader Nagahisa Sugawara, Yasuo Nagai and Tetsumi Yajima reached the summit, followed on...


Book Reviews AAJ
George Mallory

George Mallory, by David Robertson. London: Faber and Faber, 1969. 279 pages, 17 pages of photographs, 3 maps and two sketch maps.“Mon dieu! – George Mallory …he’s six foot high, with the body of an athlete by Praxiteles, and a face – oh incredibl...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, East Greenland, Rignys Bjerg, Numerous First Ascents

Rignys Bjerg, numerous first ascents. The eight-member British team of Bob Appleyard, Guy Beaumont, Martin Bohl, Rob Coles, Sean and Sue Dolan, Mike Palmer, and Phillip Smithson chose a previously visited glacier system in the Western Rignys Bjerg...


Book Reviews AAJ
Everest: The History of the Himalayan Giant

Everest: The History of the Himalayan Giant. Roberto Mantovani. Introduction by Kurt Diemberger. Mountaineers Books: Seattle, 1997. 143 pages. Hardback, large format, with numerous historical images and color photographs. $35.00If you enjoyed Walt...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Buni Zom Group

Buni Zom Group. Another Austrian expedition was led by Johann Hofer and composed of Rudolf Ludwig and Andreas Schlick. After traveling from Chitral to Maroi by jeep, they took four days to Rahman in the Laspur valley and another day and a half up ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Thamserku Attempt

Thamserku Attempt. A Spanish expedition was led by José Luis Fernández. The three other members, José Manuel González, Srta Azucena López and Miguel Angel Rodríguez, got to 6300 meters on the new route they were attempting, the west face, on Octob...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Chugllaraju, West Face

Nevado Chugllaraju, west face. American Thai Verzone and Australian David Clinton climbed a new route on Nevado Chugllaraju’s west face. Their route angles up and right, atop a prominent hanging glacier from the lower left side of the face on 45-6...


Book Reviews AAJ
Yosemite Climbs

Yosemite Climbs. George Meyers. Chockstone Press, Denver, 1982. 260 pages, black and white photographs, route diagrams, maps. $16.95.Friends of Yosemite Valley relax! No longer do you have to guard your worn and tom topos against thieves or grudgi...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Chile, Southern Patagonia, South of Paine, Cerro Panchote

Cerro Panchote. The first winter ascent of Cerro Panchote, a triple-summited glaciated peak, occurred in September 2000, reports the Spanish magazine Desnivel. The peak was climbed in a three-day round-trip from the coast by Sergio Camacho and a p...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, India—Garhwal and Kumaon, Kalindi

Kalindi. Kalindi (19,882 feet) was climbed on June 3 by B.W. Wagle, K.G. Sambus and Sherpas Dorje and Furi. Ganga Singh Apte and Dr. G.R. Patwardhan scaled two unnamed nearby peaks (18,500 and 18,000 feet) on June 1 and 4 respectively. Base Camp w...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Argentine and Chilean Patagonia, Fitz Roy, Solo and in Winter

Fitz Roy, Solo and In Winter. Three Japanese, Yasushi Yamanoi, Mitsuhiru Iwata and Kenji Iwata, had hoped to climb Fitz Roy in winter. The Iwata brothers wanted to climb the 1968 American route on the southwest buttress and Yamanoi hoped to do the...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, K7, First Ascent

K7, First Ascent. After many previous unsuccessful expeditions, a Japanese expedition led by Toichiro Nagata finally managed to climb the peak by its southwest ridge with a two-month siege, 6500 meters of rope and 450 bolt or piton placements. Bas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Hielo Continental, Patagonian Icecap, North to South Unsupported Traverse

Patagonian Icecap, north to south unsupported traverse. Between late August and early October 2003 Swiss Thomas Ulrich and Norwegian Borge Ousland traversed, unsupported, the bulk of the Southern Patagonian Icecap. Ousland is well known for being ...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Canadian Rockies

Canadian Rockies. A party of six from Washington, D. C., including Don Hubbard and Sterling Hendricks, made first ascents of the four mountains on the ridge between the Lyell Ice Field and Bush Mountain. These were Icefall Peak of Bush Mountain (1...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
South America, Peru, Cordillera Blanca, Huascarán Norte, Northeast Face

Huascarán Norte, Northeast Face. The northeast face of Huascarán Norte was first climbed by an expedition composed of Maurice Barrard, leader, Marceau Agier, Nicole Chesnais, Dr. Philippe Courtin, Lionel Desrivières, Alain Durin, Dr. Pierre Helard...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Nanga Parbat and Rakaposhi Attempts

Nanga Parbat and Rakaposhi Attempts. A Japanese expedition led by Seishi Wada failed to climb the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat. They had previously failed on Rakaposhi. Details are missing.


Book Reviews AAJ
Clogwyn du'r Arddu: The Black Cliff

Clogwyn du’r Arddu: The Black Cliff, by Peter Crew, Jack Soper, Ken Wilson. London: Kaye and Ward, 1971, 158 pages, 111 photos.Climbing literature is replete with biographies of famous climbers, but this volume is the first biography of a cliff.Cl...


Accident Reports ANAM
Washington—Cascade Mts., Wilmon Spires

Washington—Cascade Mts., Wilmon Spires: Robert V. Kasper (20) a member of the Mountaineers was on a scheduled club climb on the Wilmon Spires on 30 August 1953 when a large rock, apparently dislodged by the leader of his rope, struck him a glancin...