Nanda Devi, Second Ascent. American climbers will be particularly interested in the second ascent of Nanda Devi (25,645 feet), since it was first climbed in 1936 by a joint British and American expedition. They will also be happy to note that one ...
Mount Shnksan, Direct West Face. On Saturday, August 26, Don Keller, Mike Forney, Erich Zahn and I found ourselves at Lake Ann surrounded by a large party getting ready for the summit climb the next day. We had come with the idea of climbing from ...
During July, John Ebert and I led a large group to the Quebrada Honda. Chaco (17,454 feet) was climbed by 42 of the 55 participants between July 13 and 24. A determined attempt on Chinchey failed. Dean Smith and Bob Wilson climbed Tocllaraju (19,7...
The ascent of Tolima, 18,400 ft., in Colombia, was made on Dec. 10, 1926, by Hans Huber, of Bogatá, accompanied by two German and three Colombian friends. (Andina, Vol. VIII, No. 5, p. 122.) They reported no trace of the first ascent of Jan. 18, 1...
Pingora, West Face. On July 21 Fred Beckey, Court Richards and I left camp at Lonesome Lake for the west face of Pingora. Just before reaching Cirque Lake, we turned north and ascended to the col between Tiger and Pingora. From here we climbed up ...
Incredible Hulk, Doodad, Mt. Bandaloo (Pt 10,002'). Between August 2 and August 22 I traversed the Sierra Nevada from Twin Meadows to Hetch Hetchy, via Matterhorn Canyon and the Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River, with members of the dance troupe ...
FALLING ICE, NO HARD HAT, CLIMBING ALONEVermont, Smuggler’s NotchOn December 30, a man (41) was five or six feet off the ground on a climb when he was struck by a piece of falling ice three feet in diameter. He was knocked off his ice route and fe...
Makalu, New Route on Northeast Face. The Japanese Alpine Club, whose $30,000 peak fee was sponsored by a prominent Japanese newspaper, sent 11 climbers accompanied by 12 Sherpas to attempt the northeast ridge from its beginning. They had estimated...
Attempt on Siulá Chico, Cordillera Huayhuash. Our Argentine-Austrian expedition hoped to make the first ascent of Siulá Chico (20,555 feet). We were Luis Vigl and Fridelin Purtscheller, Austrians; lanes Ahncin, Yugoslav; Benjamin Dixon, my wife Ja...
St. Elias, East Ridge. In November 1983 sailing-yacht Northanger left England, bound for Alaska via the Panama Canal. On May 23 Rick Thomas, John Jewell, Nigel Young and I left her at anchor in Icy Bay and set off to backpack, ski and manhaul eigh...
Mt. McKinley from Seattle. Erden Eruç bicycled from Seattle to Talkeetna, then walked, with friends, 67 miles into the Southeast Fork Kahiltna Glacier base camp, and climbed the West Buttress to the summit with two others. Due to time constraints ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACING PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksIn November 1981, a young woman (18) fell while trying to clip in to a fixed piton on Try Again (5.10). (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisTwelve of the 14 accidents in the Shawangunks this year were ...
Second Ascent of Lucania and Third of Steele. On June 19 Gerry Roach, Mike Humphreys, Gary Lukis and I assembled on the Chitina airfield. Gerry and half our equipment took off up the Copper River valley toward Lucania, 150 miles to the southeast. ...
Half Moon, Lunar Rubble. On July 12 Sue Harrington and I completed a six-pitch route on the northwest face. The climb begins to the right of the two prominent dihedrals below the summit. Flakes, cracks and ledges diagonal from right to left and le...
Mount Foraker. Kurt and Peggy Bittlingmaier and Dave Scott made an attempt on the southeast ridge of Foraker but gave up after a week because of bad snow conditions.
Gangchhen Ledrub, Langtang Himal. A Japanese expedition was active in the Langtang Himal, being the third Japanese group in the region. (See A.A.J., 1959, 11:2, pp. 245-6 and A.A.J., 1960, 12:1, p. 69.) They were above 20,000 feet on Gangchhen Led...
Thalay Sagar Attempt. Unfortunately, due to other commitments, we had to climb during the monsoon and out of four weeks on the mountain we had only two days without snow. Despite that, we climbed on all but two days. We attempted the north flank, ...
Tower Peak, Northeast Face. In September, John Nye and I climbed this face via a long, shallow comer system (5 pitches, III, 5.9).Al Swanson
BENIGHTED IN (1) RAIN AND (2) SNOWSTORM, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENTAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount CoryOn August 11,1985, two climbers ascended Cory Crack, a popular gully/chimney route on a limestone face near Banff. They were stopped by darkness one p...
Kun and Nun. Numerous ascents are now being made of Kun (23,250 feet) and Nun (23,410 feet). A Japanese group led by Kunihiko Kondo attempted both the northeast ridge and the west face of Kun in July. The liaison officer, Captain H.K. Joshi, accom...