Mount Everest, French Tragedy. On September 9 at 7:30 P.M. an avalanche swept over and destroyed Camps I and II, killing the expedition leader, Gerard Devouassoux and five Sherpas. The expedition was abandoned after the accident. Base Camp had bee...
Kangchungtse (Makalu II) Attempts. Two French expeditions failed in their attempts to climb Kangchungtse by its south ridge. A party of five led by François Lévêque got to 7400 meters on October 9, while four other Frenchmen led by Pierre Thèvenar...
FALLING ROCK, POOR CONDITIONS – LATE IN SEASONOregon, Mount Hood, Sandy Glacier HeadwallOn June 28 Chris Haskins (27) and his partner were ascending the Sandy Glacier Headwall route on Mount Hood when Haskins was struck by a falling rock and suffe...
Hot Tuna Tower, Open-Book Route. This tower is located on the east side of Wheeler Crest and is visible from U.S. 395 at the beginning of Sherwin Grade, north of Bishop, California. It is the largest tower in a pink band of granite that intrudes t...
Everest Attempt, Northeast Ridge. Though a large British team in 1988 succeeded in climbing through the Pinnacles, the major crux on the ridge, they did not continue on to the summit. Although the ridge between the Pinnacles and the summit has bee...
Urdok I and Hidden Peak. The Austrian Karakoram Expedition was made up of the German Dr. Karl Hub and Austrians Dr. Helmut Preve- del, Herbert Zefferer, Robert Schauer, my wife Leselotte and me as leader. Though we had originally headed for Baltor...
Various Himalayan Climbs. Dr. Herbert Tichy spent over half a year in 1959 in the Himalaya, where he climbed no less than seven unnamed peaks that averaged 23,000 feet. He visited the Japanese in their camp in the Langtang Himal in Nepal. He was f...
Rooster Comb, Southwest Face of South Peak. On July 13 and 14 Dave Holsworth and I climbed the southwest face of the south peak of the Rooster Comb. We used the southern approach to Huntington, described in the 1972 south-ridge attempt (A.A.J., 19...
YearTotal Number of Reported AccidentsNumber of Deaths1947 15111948 28151949 1791950 3081951 1841952 35141953 25121954 3181955 3461956 408
Wells Peak, lower half of East Face, December’s Children. This route on Wells Peak, in the Wheeler Crest area, was climbed in December by James Wilson and me. It follows the only crack system just right of the center of the face. The fourth pitch ...
Shiva Shankar West, west face. The Pangi straddles the Himachal Pradesh–Jammu and Kashmir borders and is isolated for more than seven months of the year. The road into the area crosses 4,000m passes and is a difficult and adventurous journey even ...
Connecticut, West Rock—On June 1 Leo Arsenault (16), Peter Davis (18), Edw. Goderre (16) and Marvin Moore (15) went to West Rock near New Haven, Conn. Davis remained at the foot of the Rock to direct and advise. Arsenault and the other two descend...
FALL, SKI-MOUNTAINEERING—Alaska, Mt. McKinley. While skiing down the Kahiltna Glacier after a carry to the 10,000 foot level, Tokehiro Miyano (32), of the Kofu Nannei Alpine Club, hit a bump and somersaulted while falling. He fractured his left le...
Pisco. The Frenchmen C. Viennot and Mlle H. Lecumberri with the Peruvian Felipe Mautino climbed Pisco by the normal route on August 18. Also Serpinet climbed this peak with Donato SolanoCésar Morales Arnao, Club Andino Peruano
Kashkar, first ascent and traverse. In July a team from Moscow made the first ascent of 6,435m Kashkar (aka Koshkar or Kochkar Bashi), an isolated massif lying in the rarely visited Chinese Tien Shan ca 20km due south of Pobeda. The peak is though...
Canwell Glacier, Alaska Range. During the late spring and through the summer of 1968 members of the Alaska Alpine Club assisted by many others carried in and built the second of a series of huts planned in the Delta Mountains of the eastern Alaska...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY-LOWERINGAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Heart Creek, Kananaskis CountryOn July 18, M. P. was climbing at the Heart Creek sport climbing area when he was lowered off the end of his rope by his belayer, resulting in a six-me...
Bhagirathi IV Attempt. It was reported that Steve Quinlan went to attempt the unclimbed west face of Bhagirathi IV, but problems with his liaison officer forced his team to descend from low on the attempt. (The Mountain Yodel 5)
Kearsarge Pinnacle No. 6, West Face. On July 4, Liesl Day and I climbed what we believe to be a first ascent of the west face of Kearsarge Pinnacle No. 6. From the notch between Pinnacle No. 6 and No. 7 traverse east into a gully and climb over an...
Huascarán Norte, Northeast Face and Ridge. During the end of July and the first days of August Steve Brewer and I made the second ascent of the French route of 1972 on the northeast face and ridge of Huascarán Norte. There was considerable evidenc...