Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, California, Joshua Tree National Monument

Joshua Tree National Monument. There is a variety of rock climbing to be found in this large Southwestern desert preserve. Here one can climb on large tumbled piles of monzonite and granite or upon individual boulders which rise from 30 to 150 fee...


Feature Article AAJ
Tolosa

TolosaArthur B. Emmons 3rdON a previous visit to the vicinity of Aconcagua in the Argentine Andes during February, 1944,1 our party had passed close beneath the imposing buttresses of one of the principal peaks bordering the Horcones Valley on the...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Placed Inadequate Protection, Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Organ Pipes

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Organ PipesOn April 28, 1991, Charles Sharp (34) took a 15 foot lead fall while leading the second pitch of Organ Pipes on the Twin Owls at Lumpy Ridge, Rocky Mounta...


Book Reviews AAJ
Sherman Exposed: Slightly Censored Climbing Stories

Sherman Exposed: Slightly Censored Climbing Stories. John Sherman. Seattle: Mountaineers Books, 1999. 238 pages. $24.95.Here we have John Sherman’s collected articles—30 of them, almost all written during the 1990s and most having first appeared i...


In Memoriam AAJ
Winthrop Benton Greene, 1869-1939

WINTHROP BENTON GREENE(1869–1939)Rev. Winthrop Benton Greene died in Philadelphia on December 6th, 1939, at the age of seventy, following a long illness. A graduate of Williams College and of Union Theological Seminary, he was former assistant pas...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, First Ascent of the Mustagh Tower, Northwest Arête

First ascent of the Mustagh Tower, Northwest Arête. Under the leadership of John M. Hartog, the British Baltoro Expedition 1956 made the first ascent of Mustagh Tower, 23,860 feet. The other members of the party were Ian G. McNaught-Davis, Joe Bro...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall in Crevasse, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience, British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount Robson

FALL IN CREVASSE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, INEXPERIENCE British Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount RobsonC.C. and W.R. were descending Mount Robson (3955 meters) on August 5, 1993, after climbing the Fuhrer Ridge. As they were crossing the Robson Glaci...


Feature Article AAJ
Quo Vadis

Quo VadisHenri Sigayret, Groupe de Haute MontagneTHE NUMBER 26,247; does this mean anything to you? No? I must correct you since it corresponds in feet to the mystic altitude of 8000 meters. But the metric system is not used all over the world. No...


In Memoriam AAJ
Toni Hiebeler, 1930-1984 and Aleš Kunaver, 1935-1984

TONI HIEBELER1930-1984ALEŠ KUNAVER1935-1984It is unusual for the A.A.J. to publish obituaries of non-members, but in 1984 we have suffered the loss of three very close collaborators of our journal. Toni Hiebeler, his wife Traudl, Aleš Kunaver and ...


Book Reviews AAJ
The Vertical World of Yosemite

The Vertical World of Yosemite is a fine collection of personal climbing accounts by Yosemite climbers. It brings together the ways and motives of men who climb, the technical and ethical developments accompanying climbing advances, historical bac...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Southeastern China, Namcha Barwa

Namcha Barwa. The Japanese Alpine Club has permission to try this remote peak in a joint expedition with the Chinese in 1991. In November and December, a reconnaissance party of 4 Japanese and 6 Chinese led by Tsuneo Shigehiro explored the west-no...


In Memoriam AAJ
Georgia Engelhard Cromwell, 1906-1986

GEORGIA ENGELHARD CROMWELL 1906-1986Born in New York City, November 19, 1906, Georgia was an adept photographer, her father having achieved considerable prominence in the field. She practiced her profession for various commercial entities, on both...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Pakistan, Diran, 1991

Diran, 1991. On page 252 of AAJ, 1992, mention was made of a Spanish expedition to Diran, but details were lacking. The expedition was composed of Lluis Bancells, Pere Gelis and Alex Serra. They reached Base Camp at Tagaferi at 3625 meters on Augu...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, United States, Alaska, Peaks Around Ruth Glacier, Ski Ascents

Peaks around Ruth Glacier, Ski Ascents. Our members were Karl Schott, leader, Alfons Steinsberger, Günter Forchthammer, Dr. Herbert Forster, Heinz Strobach, Günther Bühler, Heinz Rückert, Hanno Maier, Manfred Golla, Alexander Kofler and I. We were...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
North America, Canada, Ellesmere Island, "Our Peak," and Other Activity

Ellesmere Island, “Our Peak,” and Other Activity. Although mountaineering was not our sole reason for visiting Northern Ellesmere Island National Park, it was certainly one of the things that Howell Martyn and I intended to do while there. Physica...


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Asia, Nepal, Tarke Kang

Tarke Kang. On October 15, Sepp Hirtreiter, Rolf Thorenz, Andi Kern, Bernhard Hron, Alban Griesmair, Christoph Markowski and I got to the Gangapurna Base Camp at 4800 meters. On the 17th, we began carrying loads to establish two camps on the north...


Book Reviews AAJ
Vertical Margins: Mountaineering and the Landscapes of Neoimperialism

Vertical Margins: Mountaineering and the Landscapes of Neoimperialism. Reuben Ellis. Madison: The University of Wisconsin Press, 2001.240 pages, paperback. $21.95.Reuben Ellis’ goal is both an admirable and daunting one: “to understand the world w...


Book Reviews AAJ
Footloose in the Himalaya

Footloose in the Himalaya. Mike Harding, Michael Joseph. Viking Penguin, New York, 1990. 242 pages, 6 sketch maps, numerous color photographs. Hardbound. $29.95.The book’s jacket tells us that Mike Harding is one of the United Kingdom’s “leading e...


In Memoriam AAJ
Walter Sherman Gifford, Jr., 1917-1944

WALTER SHERMAN GIFFORD, JR.1917-1944Walter Sherman Gifford, Jr., was born on 15 December 1917 at Washington, D. C. He was educated at Buckley School, New York City; The Fessenden School, West Newton, Mass., where he made a record by being the head...


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Climbing Unroped, Oregon, Rocky Butte

FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDOregon, Rocky ButteOn August 19, Larry Anglin (31) was free climbing an 80 foot practice cliff, fell, and sustained critical head injuries. Subject was not wearing a helmet, but it is unlikely that a helmet would have...