Mt. Slaggard, Mt. Macaulay, Southeast Macaulay, Northwest Steele, Mt. Strickland, Ascents and Attempt. On April 16, Paul Claus of Ultima Thule Outfitters flew Paul Barry, Jim McDonough, Shawn O’Donnell, Kirk Towner and myself to 10,500 feet on the...
OLIVER M. SMART1886-1967Oliver Smart joined the Club in 1923 during the middle of a climbing career which had taken him to the Andes, the Alps, Selkirks, and finally Japan and China. After graduating from Yale with a degree in electrical engineeri...
William Preston “Bill” Elfendahl 1914-2004Bill Elfendahl, 89, Boeing engineer, one of REI’s founders, mountaineer, skier, sailor, and Scout leader died June 7,2004, in Seattle following a stroke.He was born November 30, 1914, in Alameda, CA, the s...
Chilpariti or "Wedge Peak," Cordillera Carabaya. On May 9 my wife Elspeth and I returned to Macusani. The next day, along with "Jorge," our porter from last year, we set off and established Base Camp where the New Zealanders had had theirs in 1967...
K2: The Price of Conquest. Lino Lacedelli & Giovanni Cenacchi. Seattle: The Mountaineers Books, 2006. 124 pages. 30 BLACK & WHITE PHOTOS. $16.95.Was there ever a large climbing expedition that did not spew out rancor, ressentiment and the ...
When the words “Chinese” and “mountaineering” are used together, you probably think of siege-style expeditions on big-mountain routes established 50 or 60 years ago, involving large teams, huge amounts of time, money, and gear, and the “reach-the-...
Standard Encyclopedia of the World’s Mountains. Edited by Julian Huxley ; G. P. Putnam’s Sons, New York, 1962. 383 pages, 16 color plates, 12 maps, glossary, gazetteer. Price $10.95.Omne ens mensuram sumit a fine I believe the scholastic axiom goe...
Huayna Potosí, West Face and Illampu, Northwest buttress, Cordillera Real. Our purpose in going to Bolivia was to verify the Lay-back theory of climbing: to rest as long as possible, muttering about acclimatization, then to climb as fast as possib...
NEARLY STRANDED-RIGGING PROBLEMS, DARKNESS, FATIGUECalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Lost Arrow TipSasha Binford and I, Charles Zilm (32), set out to climb the Lost Arrow Tip (three pitches, 5.8 A2) on October 6. We had hoped to be off by early afterno...
HARRY PIERCE NICHOLS1850-1940In the death on November 15th, 1940, of our beloved past president, Harry P. Nichols, at the age of ninety years, the club mourns an outstanding personality. A member of the small but courageous group which formed the ...
Indian Army Expedition to Nun-Kun Massif, 1977. The massif can be described as a huge névé basin enclosed by a circle of seven peaks: Nun or Ser (23,410 feet), Kun or Mer (23,252 feet), Pinnacle Peak (22,808 feet), P 6800 (22,310 feet), White Need...
Children of the HomathkoW. V. Graham MatthewsTHE work of the Harvard Mountaineering Club’s 1947 expedition to the Coast Range of British Columbia, extensive though it was, still left enough to challenge the most ambitious mountaineer: Stiletto, t...
DWIGHT GARRIGUES LAVENDER1911-1934From a full and abundant life Dwight Lavender was, in his twenty-third year, snatched suddenly by infantile paralysis. In September he had returned to Palo Alto, California, to continue his graduate studies in geo...
The granitic massif of Mt. Balchen (Peak 11,140') sits at the head of the east branch of the Gilliam Glacier. Jed Brown, Seth Adams, and I landed eight miles (via Talkeetna Air Taxi) down from the peak’s West Buttress (climbed in 2003 by Michael W...
FALL ON ROCK, DIFFICULTY WITH RAPPEL SYSTEMCalifornia, Yosemite ValleyOn October 8, 1983, Brian Blair (19) fell about 30 meters to his death while attempting to rappel off The Bishop’s Terrace descent route. (Source: Kerry Maxwell, Ranger, Yosemit...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONE, EXHAUSTIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, Denali PassOn June 19, a solo climber from Canada, Michael Heck (61), of the “Whitevale” expedition flew onto the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna glacier to begin a climb of the West B...
Sierra Club, Angeles Chapter, Rock Climbing Section (RCS). The RCS enjoyed an active, successful year under the leadership of Fred Wing, Chairman; Andy Fried, Vice-Chairman; and John Ripley, Secretary-Treasurer. Fifty-five days of active climbing ...
Cerro Piergiorgio, West Face, All You Need is Love. Michel Bordet and I put up the tent at the foot of Piergiorgio: 600 to 900 meters high and two kilometers wide, one part facing northwest, the other, west. Both aspects had only one route.A brief...
Lucania and Steele. In June and July, 1968, the Tohhoku University Expedition, Morio Kasai, Ikuo Abe, Kunio Moku, Sadanari Ashizawa and Tetsuo Nakatsu, reconnoitered Mount Lucania and the area. From a light plane they thought the west ridge offere...
Peak 8,010', A Fine Blend. Ryan Hokanson (Alaska) and I (Montana) headed to the Buckskin Glacier for a three-week adventure scampering trip, setting up camp just below the Moose’s Tooth on May 3. Two meters of new snow and spindrift thwarted our f...