FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksA male climber (19) was belaying his second. The second fell, pulling the belayer off a ledge. The belayer was not clipped in properly. (Source: Brad Snyder)
Bonanza Peak, Northwest Ridge. Tim Haider and I climbed Washington’s highest non-volcanic peak (9,511') via a new route (V 5.8), following a traverse from the northwest. On August 19 we left the Agnes Creek trail at Swamp Creek and climbed Needle ...
The 2005 Banff Mountain Book Festival competition received more than 150 entries from eight countries. Although this was narrowed down to 39 finalists, it was one of the most impressive years in the 12-year history of the festival for quality writ...
Uranium Peak, No Country for Bold Men. In late June Greg Child and I drove into Red Canyon in southeast Utah hoping to finish a route we’d abandoned two weeks earlier. The canyon baked in the early summer heat and buzzed with ferocious gnats. The ...
Southwest British Columbia (southern Coast Mountains and Canadian Cascades) summary. Although it was a great year for new routes in the Coast Mountains as a whole, 2004 was not particularly newsworthy in the southwest BC region, probably because t...
FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPED, LOOSE ROCKWyoming, TetonsOn August 7, 1982, at 1400, Donald Decker (56) and Paul Beard (19) attempted to climb the west face of the saddle between the South and Middle Tetons. Decker was a very experienced Teton cli...
Ganesh II Tragedy. A nine-man Polish expedition led by Janusz Majer attempted the dangerous southwest face of Ganesh II. After a nine-day approach, on October 7 they got to Base Camp at 14,100 feet. Because of objective dangers, they decided to cl...
East Kahiltna Peak’s Southeast FaceTerry Kennedy, Dirty Socks ClubON MAY 19, PAT CALLIS AND I established Base Camp at 9400 feet on the east fork of the Kahiltna Glacier below the southeast face of East Kahiltna Peak (4096 meters, 13,440 feet). Th...
Kumbhakarna (Jannu) Attempt. Beverly Boynton*, Randal Harrington, Evan Kaplan, Chuck Schaap, James Springer, Callum MacKay (our only Briton) and I as leader left Kathmandu on March 23, hoping to climb the French route on the south ridge of Kumbhak...
Milne Land, circumnavigation; Hergenlitop, Sleeping Giant.During August Dan Jones, Ben Lawes, and I circumnavigated Milne Land and explored this part of Scoresby Sund, the largest fjord system in the world. At N 71° the fjord is covered with ice f...
White Winds. Joe Wilcox. Hwong Publishing, Los Alamitos, California, 1981. 499 pages, black-and-white photographs, illustration, map, tables. $14.95.The 1974 American Alpine Journal has a review by Arlene Blum of Howard Snyder’s book of the tragic...
Antarctica, Overview and Various Activity. Unreported from the 1999-2000 season was the Swiss “Antarctique 2000” expedition to Wiencke Island. Traveling aboard the yacht Philos, skippered by Eric Barde, Laure Schmied, Eric Christinet, Michael Hilt...
Alaska, Chugach Range. On 7 August Naoyuki Morita (26), Tadao Inagaki (25), Junji Nakamura (43), and Yoshihara Mikama (31), were finishing up 10 days of scientific research on Eklutna Glacier prior to returning to Japan. These four with four other...
Manaslu Attempt. Both Catalan members, Enric Bassas and Francisco Barcelona, with sirdar Nima Dorje Tamang and Gyalgen Sherpa, pitched Camp at 5600 meters above Naike Col on April 8. That is as high as they got on the standard route. A heavy snows...
FALL ON ROCK–INADEQUATE PROTECTION, OFF ROUTE, INEXPERIENCEColorado, Boulder Canyon, Eagle RockOn June 5, J.H. (20) and Z.T. (20) were climbing the Great Dihedral, a 3-pitch, 5.5 trad route in the infrequently climbed Eagle Rock area of Boulder Ca...
Gasherbrum IV, West Face and Northwest Ridge Attempts. In the spring and early summer, eight Americans attempted Gasherbrum IV (7925 meters, 26,000 feet) by two routes. Attempts on both routes on this very difficult mountain failed to reach the su...
El Zapatero, Leones y Osos. Beginning March 24, Zack Martin and Sven Krebs established 12 pitches on an unclimbed wall in a remote valley. Traveling on dirt roads slashed across immense mountains south of Monterrey to the Parque Nacional Cumbres d...
Washington, Mt. Rainier. On 13 July Chris Marshall (16), David Stevens (28), and Mark Kupperberg (25), were descending Winthrop Glacier after a successful ascent. They were part of a party of fifteen on a climb sponsored by the Seattle Mountaineer...
Mituraju, west face and other activity. The Equipo Español de Alpinismo (Spanish Alpine Climbing Team) installed base camp at Jahuacocha lake - Gocha Cutan (4,066m) on May 20. From there they crossed a dangerous glacier and carried their equipme...
Hunter's Southeast Spur- Alpine StylePeter Athans*THERE HERE IS LITTLE left to do. Glenn Randall* relaxes back onto the hotel-room bed, his eyelids slowly falling shut. I have finished bandaging his frostbitten hands and the bulky dressings lie at...