STRANDED - UNABLE TO FREE RAPPEL ROPE, WEATHER, HYPOTHERMIAWyoming, Devil's TowerOn the evening of May 23 rd, the park received a call from two stranded climbers (ages unknown) who were on the southwest face of the tower, asking for help. Aaron Tu...
Fifth Ascent of Trisul, Garhwal, and ascents in Lahul. The Bavarian brothers, Adolf and Fritz Hieber, and the Bombay lawyer, Keki Bunshah, with Sherpa Gyalzen Minchung ( H. C. No. 163) and his brother Wangdi, were active in the mountains just sout...
Nalivkin Glacier, Malitskovo Glacier; Pik 4,828m (Sigma Peak), first ascent; Piks 5,055m (Hidden Peak), 4,975m (Snow Dome), new routes; other ascents. We chose the western Kokshaal Too region for its potential for first ascents. Also called “The F...
Washington, Mt. Rainier National Park—On July 30, a party of 15 Tacoma Mountaineers under the leadership of Stan Engle were camped at Steamboat Prow in preparation for a scheduled experience climb ofMount Rainier via the Emmons Route, the followin...
Mt Wheeler (11,023 ft.). Third ascent; first from Glacier Circle hut. Miss G. Engelhard. Ern. Feuz. Leaving Glacier Cirde hut at 5.00 a.m., September 13th, 1933, the lower tongue of Deville glacier was followed to foot of icefall, thence taking to...
Gongga Shan Attempt. A four-man expedition to Gongga Shan was led by Akio Kanagoe. He had been the leader of the tragic 1981 northeast-ridge expedition which had lost eight of its members. This time the Japanese attempted the northwest ridge, by w...
New Hampshire, Cannon Mt.—On June 8, S. M. Ornstein (27), Robert Jahn (27), John F. Noxon (28), and John S. Humphreys (24) climbed theWhitney-Gilman route (class 5) on the face of Cannon Mt. All were experienced climbers, the weather was good, and...
STEVEN ANTHONY McANDREWS1950-1973(Steven McAndrews was applying for membership in the American Alpine Club, but he was tragically killed on Fitz Roy in Patagonia before he could be taken in. The following is an excerpt from what was written by a c...
Yazghil Dome South Attempt and Tragedy. The members of our expedition were Takeshi Hamamoto, Hiroshi Komura, Fumitake Nakamura, Kazuhiko Yagisawa and I as leader. We started our trek from Huro, beyond Nagar, on July 29 and took five days to reach ...
Foraker, Ski Descent. On May 29 to 31 Pierre Beghin, James Merel, Jean-Luc Ruby and I climbed Mount Foraker by the southeast ridge and descended by the same route on skis.Rémy Poccard, Club Alpin Français
FALL ON ROCK, NO HELMET, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, EXCEEDING ABILITIES, INEXPERIENCE Alberta, Kananaskis Valley, Barrier BluffsLate in the afternoon of July 6, Justin W. (21) was top-roping The Wasp, a 5.9 route, on the Yellow Wall when he took a ten...
Annapurna III Attempt. Four Spaniards led by César Gregorio attempted to climb Annapurna III by its southwest face. They had to turn back at 5400 meters on October 6.Elizabeth Hawley
Thunder Mountain, South Face, New Route. In June, Jim Donini and John Bragg reunited after 25 years (the pair had not climbed together since the first ascent of Torre Egger in 1976) to climb a new route on Thunder Mountain’s south face. The centra...
WASPNew York, ShawangunksOn June 22, while leading Direct Erection, a male climber (47) was bitten by a wasp. He went into shock but no fall occurred. He was treated by his doctor. (Source: Brad Snyder)AnalysisThis is the first climbing report inv...
Brammah II. Guus Lambregts, Johan Taks, Gilles Boerlage, Lout Brandt, Ruud Zwart and I arrived a week late, on July 19, at our 12,000-foot Base Camp. It took one week to transport 275 kgs up the glacier, establishing Camps I and II, the latter at ...
Langtang Lirung Attempt. Steve Tenney, Chris Wood, Chris Reveley and I were unsuccessful in an alpine-style attempt on the south ridge of Langtang Lirung (7234 meters, 23,734 feet). Advanced Base Camp at 16,000 feet was abandoned in late April aft...
Thamserku and Lhotse Attempts and Imjatse. Our expedition consisted of Michel Fauquet, Nathalie LeCable, Marie-Odile Martine, Frédéric Potie and me. We climbed from the beginning of September to November. Our first objective was the north face of ...
Ganesh V. The first autumn attempt on Ganesh V was successful when Koji Shibuya and Yasuhiro Matsuda and Sherpas Kusang Lama and his brother Dorje reached the top (6986 meters, 22,919 feet) on October 4 by a previously untried route, the south rid...
An Ascent of Mont Blanc Forty Years Ago. Mr. John Vernou Bouvier (Columbia, 1886; LL.B., 1888), of New York, who completed his ascent of Mont Blanc by climbing the flagpole of the edicule, has kindly sent us the following notes:Parlous are the per...
Marcus Baker, North Summit. Mark Fouts, Ward Warren and I approached by the winding, 30-mile Matanuska Glacier. On June 11 we placed Base Camp at the bottom of Marcus Baker’s north ridge. The next three days were spent threading our way up the nor...