FALL ON ROCK, CLIMBING ALONE AND UNROPED Colorado, Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Leisure RouteOn October 19, Steven Permick (37), an experienced climber, was climbing alone in the Black Canyon. When he failed to return, his father called the Park ...
Peak 12,563, Northeast Ridge. On Fourth of July weekend I soloed this prominent prow in Granite Park near Pine Creek Pass, finding no evidence of a prior ascent. (Grade II, 5.6.)Galen Rowell
FALL ON ICE, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST, INADEQUATE BELAYAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressWilliam Finley (24) and Jeff Munroe (25) were injured in a 2,000 foot fall down the “Orient Express” section of the West Rib route on Mount McKinley June 18 a...
Pope’s Nose, Southwest Face, San Juan Range. As we stood there sheepishly at the confluence of the Flint Fork and the Los Pinos River in the southeastern San Juan Range, I thought the 1000-foot unclimbed southwest wall of the Pope’s Nose looked mu...
Thimble Peak, approximately 10,000 ft. First ascent, August 11. E. Cromwell, P. Kaufmann. From camp at head of Bugaboo Creek, via Bugaboo glacier and south arm, to col between Thimble and Howser Peak. Ascended east ridge to summit. Descended west ...
Kimsakolyo, Lloca de Ancohuma and Other Peaks. Our expedition was composed of Pere Aymerich, Francesc Banqué, Jordi Canals, Dr. Marçal Castaño, Jaume Rovira and me. On July 30 Aymerich and Canals made a route in the Huayna Potosí region: the north...
Illampu, West Face, New Route. It was reported that a French pair climbed a new route, Entourloup (TD, 800m+) on the west face of Illampu (6368m) in September, 1996. Further details are lacking. (High Mountain Sports 176)
A Note of Gratitude, The American Alpine Club is very grateful to all those who have contributed information, especially to this section. It is impossible to mention all who have been helpful, but special thanks to non-members for many years of as...
Gharol, Kishtwar Himal. Members of a 20-man team from the Signals Regiment of the Northern Indian Command led by Major A. Roy scaled this peak (19,888 feet) in the Kishtwar region on October 8.Kamal K. Guha, Himalayan Club
Northwest face of Chief’s Head. Early in the summer of 1961 Layton Kor and I made the first ascent of the northwest face on Chief’s Head Peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. No previous attempts had been made although this 1500-foot granite face ...
Aconcagua. (While the procedures described above are obviously excessive, the Argentine authorities are faced with hordes of both qualified and unqualified climbers, as explained below. We hope they will make their screening process more reasonabl...
Kirkespiret, North Face, Previously Unreported. It was reported that Danes Christian Ilium and Asmus Nørreslet made the first ascent of the north face of Kirkespiret during a four-member expedition to the Ketil region in August, 1998. The 11-pitch...
Makalu Attempt and Baruntse. Our expedition reached Base Camp at 16,075 feet on September 8 after a 10-day approach. We placed Advance Base at 17,400 feet on September 17. The Makalu group, Jean Troillet, Yves Rausis and I, had hoped to climb the ...
Fisher Towers, various ascents. Spaniards David Palmada and Esther Ollé established a route to which they gave the unprecedented rating of A6+ (the standard aid scale tops out at A5+). Their route, Look Out! Danger, took 13 days and climbs the nor...
Darban Zorn, Hindu Kush. An Austrian expedition traveled by Jeep over the Lowari Pass and through Chitral into the Mastuj valley. From there they went by pack train to Shagrom. Base Camp was at 15,000 feet by the Darban Glacier. Camp I was establi...
Grand Teton, Winter Ascents on North Face and North Ridge. In February, I skied in and climbed the chimney system on the North Face of the Grand Teton which ends between the Molar and the Second Tower. I did not go on further because of unstable s...
Mana Parbat. Mana Parbat (22,970 feet) in the Gangotri region was climbed by a nine-man team organized by the Mountaineers Club, Calcutta and led by Baidyanath N. Rakshit. On October 8 Amiya Mukherjee, Pranesh Chakravarty, and Sherpas Thundu and C...
Near Rollins Springs, Missouri. On 14 October 1948, 30 staff members of the Savitar, a University of Missouri student publication, were picnicking near Hinkson Creek. Richard K. Phelps, Jr. (20), attempted to climb a bluff near the creek. When a r...
Big Horn Mountains. The sharp needle 1? miles south 83° west of Blacktooth was climbed for the first time on June 20th, 1934, by Wm. F. Jenks and David Griggs by a route leading up the south face.
Antisana Norte. One of the finest peaks in Ecuador, Antisana Norte (c. 18,400 feet) was ascended for the first and only time on November 1972. Now, six climbers from Ambato placed a base camp near the Laguna (lake) del Volcán and a high one on the...