Mountaineering in Greenland Erik Hoff, Dansk Bjergklub (A supplement to articles on the same subject published in Journal, Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research, Vol. IV, No. 11, 1962, in Berge der Welt 1966-7 and in Mountain World 1966-7.) TH...
It is heretical, perhaps, to begin a tale of pure mountain exploration from inside the industrial confines of a sandblasting helmet, the hideous din of compressed air carrying its own desert storm against a boat’s hull, against the process that th...
In early August Alexander Kirikov and I completed what we believed at the time to be a new route on Khan Tengri. It began from the standard site of Camp 2 (5,300m) on the classic route from the south up the Semenovsky Glacier and then followed a b...
Masherbrum Attempt. Our team members were Mark Miller, Nigel Hillman, Bruce Hubbard, Stuart Bygrave, Adrian Bake, Mike Cross, Graham Hulme, Ewen Todd, Colin Jamieson, Keven Murphy, Alec Erskine and I as leader. We had hoped to climb Masherbrum (78...
The Blockhouse, South Face. High on the edge of the Cashmere Crags sits The Blockhouse, one of the Crags’ largest and sheerest rock formations, seldom visited since it is not near a trail. John Brottem, Dave Beckstead and I climbed a most pleasura...
Washington, Near Mt. Stuart—On September 5, 1955 David Martin (19) and his brother (17) along with Fred Facer (41) were returning to base camp from a climb on Mt. Stuart. They had backpacked to their base camp two days earlier, climbed to the summ...
Cassin Ridge in WinterMichael Young, Colorado Outward Bound SchoolOUR INTENT had been to climb Mount Logan in winter. Seldom visited in summer, we knew of no winter attempts on North America’s second highest peak. Only weeks before we were to leav...
Harvard Mountaineering Club. The year saw an upswing in climbing activity as well as increased social gatherings. Furthermore, we expect to publish Issue 23 of the Harvard Mountaineering Club Journal next year.In January, members Lou Derry, Alex G...
EXHAUSTION – POSSIBLE AMS OR HACE, FALL ON ICE/SNOW, WEATHERWashington, Mount Rainier, Liberty RidgeOn June 12, Rob Plankers (50), Brad Clement (40), and Tanya Clement (48) departed White River for a summit attempt via the Liberty Ridge route. The...
A NOTE ON ROCKFALLS AND NORTH FACES IN THE LAKE LOUISE AREA.James Gardner, University of IowaRockfalls are a well-recognized hazard to mountaineering in the Canadian Rocky Mountains. Data collected during the summers of 1965, 1966 and 1967 in the ...
The Loneliest Mountain. Lincoln Hall. Photographs by Jonathan Chester. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1989. 232 pages. $35.00Scarcely 4000 meters high and technically not very demanding, Mount Minto is not the conventional idea of a difficult mountain...
Advanced Rockcraft, by Royal Robbins. Glendale, California: La Siesta, 1973. 96 pp. 26 photos, profuse sketches.This important book on rock climbing technique appeared more than two years ago. Blame for failure of this journal to review it promptl...
Denali’s WifeCharles S. HoustonON the plains south of the Yukon River and only a hundred miles inland from the Pacific Ocean the Kuskoquim Indians have lived since time immemorial in the shadow of a great range of mountains, the greatest in North ...
The Horizontal Everest: Extreme Journeys on Ellesmere Island. Jerry Kobalenko, New York: Soho Press. 2002. 352 pages. Paperback. $15.00.The Horizontal Everest shows that a consummate adventurer can also aspire to illuminated historical writing. Je...
At 12:50 p.m. on November 7, Sherpas Dawa Norbu (known as Ang Danu), Dawa Tshering, Tshering Tashi, and I reached the top of Yakawa Kang. It had taken 11 hours and was the result of three years’ planning. It marked the 60th anniversary of the Shiz...
FALL ON ROCK, CHOCK FAILURE, NO PROTECTION—Washington, The Tooth. Walter McDonald (33) fell to his death while climbing The Tooth with his partner Donald Moulton (24). This is Moulton’s description (edited) following the accident.I met Walter McDo...
The East Face of Trango’s Nameless TowerWojciech Kurtyka, Klub Wysokogórski Kraków, PolandTHE EAST FACE OF THE NAMELESS TOWER of the Trango Towers rises for more than 1000 meters. From June 24 to July 14 Swiss Erhard Loretan and I worked out a new...
Permit problems in East Tibet, what went wrong. Everyone asks me, “What happened regarding the permits to East Tibet in the fall of 2004?” According to the Chinese authorities, permits to visit unopened areas and climb in Nyainqentanglha East were...
The Best Of Ascent. Edited by Steve Roper and Allen Steck. Sierra Club Books, San Francisco, 1993. 384 pages. $25.Before there was a name there was a need. The Sierra Club Bulletin had become Sierra and was shifting coverage from mountaineering to...
CEREBRAL EDEMA Alaska, Mt. McKinleyValentin Demmel, Sr. (47), Valentin Demmel, Jr. (18), Guenter Kroh (32), and Andreas Kahnt (19) were members of the Ingolstadter Alaska Kundfahrt Expedition. They flew to the southeast fork landing strip on June ...