Big Baron Spire, Sawtooth Mountains. Dave Davis and I did the first ascent of the east face of this striking peak. The climb begins directly below the imposing summit capstone in a chimney/crack system. It is five pitches long with the crux a larg...
Antarctic. The only ascent made by the Argentine glaciological expedition from Belgrano Base was that of the nunatak called "Pantera” (Panther) by the Argentines in the Moltke Nunatak Group. The climb was made on November 28, 1958 by Dinko Bertonc...
Citadel, Northwest Buttress, Riesenstein, West Face and Kichatna Spire Attempt, Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. After landing on the Cool Sac Glacier with 25 days of food, Ed Newville and I attempted the west face of the 8000-foot “Riesenste...
Peak 7732, Chilliwacks. The first ascent of this peak, which is the highest point on the ridge between Redoubt Creek and Pass Creek and which overlooks Little Beaver Creek, was made by John Stout, Alfred Tatyrek, Marilyn Loranger, Ruth Ittner, and...
Nevado Imantata, Cordillera de Quimsa Cruz. On July 2 I climbed P 5380 (south side, rock and flat ice), which I named Nevado Imantata (Hidden Peak), in Aimara. On the north summit of the main ridge there was a surveyor’s cairn. The same day I trav...
Canyonlands Area. On the road to North Sharpshooter Tower, a mile from the dug-out ranch and on the north side of the highway, is the canyon often called “Fringe of Death Canyon.” Jim Dunn and companions have climbed a couple of dozen crack lines ...
Mount Hunter, North Buttress Attempt. Dan and Patrick McNerth- ney, Rob Newsom and I* arrived in Talkeetna on May 2 and were on the glacier that evening. The next couple of days found us establishing Base Camp and telescoping the face. We chose a ...
Washington, Cliff in Upper Entiat Valley—On 29 June, Dewey Long (15) fell 100 feet to his death while attempting to climb a cliff with a friend in the hills of the upper Entiat Valley.Source: Newspaper clipping.
Huayanay Group, Cordillera Vilcabamba. Led by Louis Dubost, a group of 55 members of the Section Lyon-Saint Gervais of the French Alpine Club left France on July 23 for the Cordillera Vilcabamba. Of these, 14 men and 2 women were serious climbers....
RAPPEL ERROR, INADEQUATE CLOTHING, HYPOTHERMIA, WEATHER California, Tuolumne Meadows, Pywiack DomeOn July 23, a powerful thunderstorm swept through Tuolumne Meadows in the early afternoon. My partner and I raced to the top of our route, simulclimb...
Mount Sanford. Solo-climber Naomi Uemura from Japan accomplished the fourth ascent of Mount Sanford (16,237 feet). He flew in to only 3500 feet with food for twenty days. With a long pole tied to his pack, he probed all the way. He was driven back...
FALL ON RAPPELBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mount StanleyOn July 27, after returning from the North Face glacier route, three climbers were rappelling low angle slabs heading to the meadows below. One of them lost control of his rappel for a ...
Warbonnet, Northeast Face. From Camp on Lonesome Lake at about nine in the morning in August, Eric Beck and I walked up toward Jackass Pass to see whether the route we had picked out on the northeast face of Warbonnet would go. A steep snow slope ...
Kachina Mountain Club. The Club, with headquarters in Phoenix, Arizona, has an active membership of 20 and is admitting new members as soon as they can be trained. All new members must make at least six practice climbs before they are accepted. Th...
Via Sin Aqua, the Upper Yosemite Falls Traverse. The Falls were completely dry and both Bugs McKeith of Edinburgh and I had noticed the same possible route. In September, 1970 we followed Muir’s footsteps to the western terminus of the ledge leadi...
Huandoy Norte, East Face and Other Peaks, 1977. Bertl Gribnitz, Waltraut Sommersacher, Arnulf Leitner, Gerhard Neumayer and I as leader climbed in the Cordillera Blanca in July of 1977. On July 27 we repeated the Polish route on the east face of H...
Momhil Sar. Momhil Sar, the 24,090-foot peak which lies just west of Trivor, was climbed by an Austrian expedition from Styria. It was led by Hans Schell and included Rudolf Pischinger, Horst Schindelbacher, Leo Schlömmer and Rolf Widerhofer. Afte...
The Citadel. On August 28 Joe Munson and Jim Parolini made the first ascent of this 7378-foot peak from 1½ miles below Royal Basin. Brush and scree were encountered to the low point on the ridge connecting with Greywolf Ridge. The ridge was follow...
Allpamayo, Kitaraju. Our expedition was composed of Wally Barker, Rick Hanners and me. From Base Camp at the confluence of the Que- bradas Arweiqocha and Santa Cruz, on July 20 Barker and I unsuccessfully attempted Kurikashjana. On July 29 he and ...
Llihirini I, Ancohuma, Illimani and Other Peaks, Cordillera Real. We three reached Base Camp in the northern Cordillera Real from La Paz after two days’ drive and two days’ walk. Stephen Venables and I climbed Viluyo I (5638 meters, 18,500 feet) o...