The Pressure Melting Point of Ice and the Excavation of Cirques and Valley Steps by GlaciersJoel E. FisherRecent studies1 have developed a now well-established principle that outside the arctic the temperature of all glaciers 10 or 20 meters below...
Michael S. Martin 1940 - 2001Michael S. Martin drowned September 6, 2001, near the completion of a solo hike up the Upper Black Box Canyon in Utah. He was 61 years old. Mike had recently returned to Denver from a trip to the Tetons and had spent 1...
Exploring Idaho’s Mountains: A Guide for Climbers, Scramblers and Hikers. Tom Lopez. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1990. 288 pages, black-and-white photographs, maps, appendices, index. $16.95 (paper).Idaho has countless summits scattered across, by ...
Alpine Ways is first and last a picture book; the text serves merely as an introduction to and commentary on Mr. Smythe’s photographs. It is adequate to this purpose, but one would have been grateful for the photographic data—choice of stops, leng...
Argentine Patagonia, Various Ascents, and Second Ascent of Condorito. (This account complements the brief notes in last year’s volume, pp. 281-2.) On January 29, 1998, Michael Richter and I climbed Guillaumet via the Col de Droite. On February 4, ...
RAPPEL ANCHOR FAILURE—ROCK RROKE LOOSE, FALL ON ROCKWashington, Mount StuartOn July 10, Kris Stout (30) and his climbing partner had waited out a storm on Mount Stuart before beginning their descent. Stout was preparing to descend by rope when he ...
Tayapampa, Jancarurish and Other Peaks, 1980. Our expedition consisted of Franz Scheikl, Dr. Martin Donner, Rüdiger Pinter, Herbert Schütter, Hans Gregoritsch, Sepp Halzmann, Willi Trinker and me. We drove to Base Camp at 13,375 feet in the upper ...
North Chasm View Wall, Black Planet, Second Ascent and New Variation. Over the period of March 15-25,1 left my home in Gunnison and soloed what I believe to be the second ascent of Jim Beyer’s route, Black Planet, in Black Canyon National Monument...
FALLING ROCKNevada, Red Rocks Canyon NCAOn May 2, on the fifth pitch of the Original Route (5.9,A2) on the Rainbow Wall in Red Rock Canyon, a climber (35) accidentally dislodged a four foot by two foot by six inch sandstone block that fell 100 fee...
Gonga Sham Attempt and Tragedy. On August 25. Hitoshi Watanabe, Takuya Fukuzawa, Sachiko Takada (f), Yasuyuki Watanabe, Yosuke Suzuki, Junji Kudo and I as leader established Base Camp at 3950 meters near the tongue of the Yanzeko Glacier north of ...
Climbs in Snow Creek Area, 1982. Jim Yoder did several new routes in the Leavenworth area. Perhaps the most notable was Hyperspace on Snow Creek Wall. It is a sustained free climb with four of the eight pitches being 5.10. The crux is a 5.10d slot...
Peaks above the Dall Glacier. From July 22 to August 1 Donald Davis and I, with Brian and Diane Okonek acting as guides, established a Base Camp on the Dall Glacier, 4¾ miles southwest of Mount Russell. We made the following climbs, all first asce...
FALL ON SNOW, CLIMBING ALONEBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountains, Ridge between Mounts Castor and PolluxOn April 21, 1982, a solo climber was ascending the ridge between Mounts Castor and Pollux. He had left his skis where the rock ridge began. On ...
FALL ON SNOW AND HAPE/HACE-ASCENDING TOO FASTAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 1430 on May 17, Frainciso Borja (32), a member of the Blue Skies Expedition, was witnessed by NPS Ranger Scott Metcalfe and VIP Kirk Mauthner falling from just be...
Mount Shuksan, Nooksack Cirque. Pete Doorish and I visited a summit immediately northeast of Nooksack Tower by climbing from a camp near the northeastern arm of the Price Glacier. The climbing was enjoyable at the outset, but the rock became incre...
AVALANCHEAlberta, Banff National Park, Mount Wilson, Wilson MajorOn January 10, J.W. (29) and J.S. (23) were approaching the ice climb Wilson Major on Mount Wilson. They had climbed up the WI III approach pitches of Lady Wilson’s Cleavage and were...
Beartooths, Granite Peak, Directissima. In late July Bob Goodwin and I made what may be a new route on the north face of Granite Peak. We reached the north ridge of Temple Peak at noon and stared over at the north face, determining the most direct...
Lauper Bjerg Attempt, East Greenland. The British Tasilaq Expedition started with four members: Anthony Day, Stuart Raeburn, Nigel Topping and me. Unfortunately, Day had to leave the expedition early. Along with geological and glaciological studie...
Goat Glacier, various ascents. U.K. climbers Glenn Wilks, Geoff Hornby, Alistair Duff, and Susie Sammut flew into the upper part of the southwest fork of the Goat Glacier in the Granite Range. This fork had not been explored by climbers from Ultim...
Kankar Pünzum Attempt. The Himalayan Association of Japan expedition was composed of Michifumi Ohuchi, leader, Yoshio Ogata, climbing leader, Hitoshi Watanabe, Sadao Hangaya, Koichi Ezaki, Shinya Kobayashi, Makoto Miyoshi, Tetsuya Kudo, Fumie Kume...