Mount Cruiser, West Face. In July, 1959 Don Anderson and Roy Harniss made the first ascent of this face, which was consistently class 4 and required iron for safety on occasional leads. The ascent was completed in six hours.Mount Cruiser, West Fac...
Everest, First Ascent by a Nepalese Woman and Tragedy. The first to climb Everest from Nepal in the pre-monsoon were Nepalese, who reached the top on April 22 via the South Col and southeast ridge. There had been drama from the very inception of t...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONWashington, Columbia Hill State Park, Horsethief ButteOn Sunday April 5, Tony Silva (30), a Gresham Oregon Police Detective, his sister-in-law Laura (26), and her husband, Bobby Silva, along with three young chil...
Mt. Rainier. On January 12th, 1936, Delmar Fadden of Seattle, an Eagle Scout, started on a solo ascent of Mt. Rainier from the north. This summit has never been climbed in January which is the poorest time of year for such an enterprise. A week la...
Gangotri II. Indians led by Salil Joshi climbed Gangotri II (6577 meters, 21,513 feet) on May 30. Summiters were A.B. Narajia, Pradip Rever, Ravji Rathod, Babubhai Barnda and Lal Bahadur.Harish Kapadia, Editor, Himalayan Journal
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. In 2000, the Sierra Nevada Section offered members a variety of ways to network with other climbers and shape changes affecting Yosemite National Park.We kicked off the year with a well-attended Section Dinner in Berkel...
FALL ON ROCK - ASCENDER THREADED INCORRECTLY, DEHYDRATIONNew Hampshire, Cathedral Ledge, The ProwOn August 8, a climber (40s) from Center Conway survived a 100-foot fall at Cathedral Ledge.The Prow ascends the nose directly below the fenced-in vie...
Coming of Age-Ice Climbing Developments in North AmericaJames P. McCarthySINCE the flowering of the Yosemite School of Rock Climbing in the 1950s until the present, the world mountaineering community has gradually become aware that the best Americ...
Shisha Pangma from the Southwest and Nyanang Ri. On a reconnaissance in 1983, Tone Škarja and I made the first ascent of the Ice Tooth, the peak just south of Nyanang Ri. Since then, I have considered Nyanang Ri to be a most convenient peak for ac...
Northeast and West Sikkim, various attempts and ascents. During October and November Claire Humphris (U.K.), Simon Humphris (U.K.), Monica Kalozdi (U.S.), Tom Midttun (Norway), Jean Pavillard (Switzerland), Fabian Pavillard (Switzerland), Owen Sam...
STRANDED—UNABLE TO LOCATE RAPPEL ANCHOR California, Yosemite Valley, El CapitanOn August 25, 1994, at 1300, Rangers Keith Lober and Rick Foulks were contacted at El Capitan by a visitor who reported climbers calling for help from the cliff. I was ...
Mururata Massif, Various Ascents. For three days I tried approaches to the unclimbed peaks east of Mururata but found no access through the rock walls that enclose the Trancapata Valley. I then marched to the peaks west of Mururata. On June 2 I cl...
American Safe Climbing AssociationActivity report, 1999-2002. The American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) replaces bad bolts and anchors throughout the United States. Conceived by veteran Yosemite guide Steve Sutton in 1995, the ASCA was incorpo...
DANIEL A. REID1941-1991On September 10, 1991, Dan Reid, M.D., an A AC member since 1971, and his wife Barbara were killed in a climbing accident on Mount Kenya. Their death left a void in many lives which can never be filled.Dan was an extraordina...
BYRON HARMON1876-1942Mr. Harmon was born in Tacoma, Wash., in 1876 and died at the Canmore hospital on July 9th, 1942. Although never a member of this Club he was so well known to mountaineers through the medium of his photography that he should b...
American Dhaulagiri Expedition—1969 William A. Read, James D. Morrissey, and Louis F. Reichardt The ablation has been performed but not the sacrifice. – The I Ching of James Janney after the collapse of Read but before the Death of the Seven. Ap...
Qiajajima I (5,930m), first ascent. Qiajajima massif is the highest mountain in the headwaters of the Mekong River on the Qinghai-Tibet plateau. It is located at about N33° 28' and E95° 11' in the most isolated region of the Yushu Tibetan Autonomo...
Everest, More on Earlier Chinese Expeditions. When the Western mountaineering world reacted with scepticism to Chinese claims in 1960 that their brave climbers had reached the summit of Everest, the authorities in Beijing did not publicly take any...
Denali National Park and Preserve, 1982 Mountaineering Summary. During the 1982 climbing season, more climbers were on Mount McKinley than ever before, but surprisingly, the summit saw fewer climbers than in several previous years. Of the record 6...
Lhotse south face, winter attempt. The 2006 Korean Lhotse South Face team, comprising Lee Choong-jik (leader), Kim Hyung-il, Choi Jun-yeol, Seong Nak-jong, Kang Ki-seok, and I arrived at base camp on November 14. We joined forces with the Japanese...