Pic Pobeda, Tien Shan. The second highest peak of the Soviet Union, Pic Pobeda (Peak of Victory), 24,407 feet, is reported to have been climbed in 1956. This peak was discovered in 1937, attempted in 1938, and surveyed in 1943.
FALL ON ROCK, NO PROTECTION, UNROPEDWashington, Castle RockOn October 27, 1991, Niccy Code (32) was leading a group of students on Castle Rock during a semester course in mountaineering. Two of her students were finishing the second pitch of Saber...
The Incisor, New Route. It was reported that Eli Helmuth climbed a new route on the Incisor with three clients in the spring. The 700-meter climb, which started with a hidden 45-degree névé couloir to reach the crux, followed the northwest face. T...
FALLING ROCK, POOR POSITIONColorado, Sangre de Cristo Range, Crestone NeedleOn August 22, 1993, a 38 year old man was struck by a falling rock near the summit of Crestone Needle while climbing with four others. He was struck in the face, and then ...
Nojin Kangsang, probable first ascent of west ridge. On August 15 Aumi Nozawai, Shinichi Miyagawa, and Masao Saito from a six-member Himalayan Association of Japan expedition led by 61-year-old Kunimitsu Sakai, made the probable fourth ascent of 7...
Changtse Attempt. An expedition led by me comprised Britons Andrew Elliot, Bill Bennett, Jeremy Edwards, Edward Morgan, Peter Wilson and Americans Paul Dornisch and Russell Lee. We attempted the southeast face. After fixing 1000 feet of rope, on O...
FALLING ROCK—California, Sierra Nevada, Mt. Abbot. Marilee Henry (31), and Joyce Krause (37) were on the last pitch leading to the top of the south ridge of Mt. Abbot on September 5 when this accident occurred. Ellis had led that pitch and found t...
Nanga Parbat Attempt, 1991. In AAJ, 1992, we made a brief mention of an unsuccessful Japanese expedition to Nanga Parbat. The Iwa To Yuki Annual on page 218 gives details, which we summarize here. The 8-member team, led by Seishi Wada, attempted t...
Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. After our ski traverse, George Beilstein and I made two climbs. P 7200, a half mile northeast of Gurney Peak, was an excellent 2800-foot-high mixed climb. It took us ten hours to ascend the northeast face. Aft...
SLIP ON ICE, FAULTY USE OF CRAMPONS, CLIMBING UNROPED Alberta, Smith-Dorrien Valley, French CreekOn November 20, L.S. (24) and a partner climbed an ice flow above French Creek on the east flank of Mount Burstall, about thirty minutes from the trai...
Chuscha Massif, Traverse. This massif has many summits; the highest is Chuscha (5512 m). Chuscha means “breast “in Quechua. A group that included veteran Antonio Beorchia Nigris ascended Cerro Pabellón o Alto de la Laguna (4900 m) on February 3, d...
Four Peaks in Eight Days. During May 1946 William Hackett and A. B. Wheeler ascended Mexico’s four highest mountains in a period of eight days: 12 May, Popocatepetl (17,882 ft.); 13 May, Nevada de Toluca (15,120 ft.); 16 May, Pico de Orizaba (18,7...
Temple Crag, Backside of Beyond. Temple Crag has a hidden face. Last October, when the Celestial Arêtes retreated behind snow and ice and shadow, I recalled a sunnier side, and Jim Herrington and I went over Contact Pass to have a look. The south ...
Goromity (local name Riyucaibao), toward the southern end of the Siguniang Shan, is the highest unclimbed mountain in the range. In autumn 2010 two Chinese climbers, Luo Biao and Zhou Peng, approached via the Shuangqiao and Xiao Niu Chang Va...
Mount Logan Traverse and Ski Descent, 1982. Greg Grange, Andy Lapkas, Steve Monfredo and I flew on May 26, 1982 to 6500 feet on the Hubbard Glacier, six miles from Logan’s east ridge. Of the total 52-mile traverse, the three-mile east ridge consum...
FALLS ON ROCK AND ICEMaine, Baxter State Park, Mount KatahdinThere were three incidents reported from Mount Katahdin, all of them happening in February. Scant details were provided. Two involved ice climbers injuring their knees, the third a fall ...
Shakhaur, West Ridge. The goal of the expedition was to climb Shakhaur (7116 m) by a new, safe route from the Northern Udren Glacier. The members of the expedition were Alfred Fendt, leader (42, Germany), and Gerhard Gritsch (26, Österreich). The ...
TABLE III1951-621963GeographicalDistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotalPersonsInvolvedCanadaAlberta747303British Columbia7618515Yukon Territory101000Quebec000111United StatesAtlantic — North4917638210— ...
Angutikada (Old Man Mountain), first ascent in 1985. With Ron Watters, Deborah Dixon and I made our third attempt to climb Angutikada (Old Man Mountain) in March 1985.I have found no record of it having been climbed before. Angutikada rises 4,120'...
Ketil, South Greenland. A strong four-man Austrian team from Lienz under the leadership of Siegfried Girstmair spent three weeks in June and July on the Tasermiut Fjord area. In very fine weather they were able to repeat the 1974 Austrian route on...