North Chasm View Wall, The Free Nose, First One-Day Ascent. In May, Kennan Harvey and I did the second ascent and first one-day ascent of the Free Nose of North Chasm View Wall in the Black Canyon of the Gunnison. The weather was questionable, so ...
Pik Kommunizma, Pamirs. Four Polish climbers, M. Grochowski, A. Heinrich, R. Kowalewski and J. Rusiecki, made the first ascent of the 2300-foot high west face of Pik Kommunizma (24,548 feet) from August 6 to 9. This is the first route on this face...
Mont Blanc to Everest, by Gaston Rébuffat, with a preface by Wilfred Noyce. London: Thames and Hudson, 1956. 158 pages; 69 photogravures, including 8 in color. Price 35 s.This is the English edition of Rébuffat’s Du Mont Blanc á L’Himalaya transla...
YearTotal Number of Reported AccidentsNumber of Deaths1947 15111948 28151949 1791950 3081951 1841952 35141953 25121954 3181955 3461956 46101957 4517
FALL/SLIP ON SNOW—Washington, Mt. St. Helens. Vernar Stiles (54) and Judi Amos (27) slid and tumbled more than 3,000 feet to their deaths from Nelson Glacier on Mt. St. Helens, February 7. They were with a group of 12, all experienced and well equ...
FALL ON ROCK, PLACED NO PROTECTIONColorado, Eldorado Canyon State Park, T-2On October 7, a climber (38) was beginning to lead the eighth pitch of T-2 when he fell 16 feet, hitting the wall with his foot, resulting in a fracture. He was experienced...
SLIP ON ROCK, CLIMBING UNROPEDBritish Columbia, Rocky Mountains, Mt. RobsonOn July 28, 1979, John Harlin of Rhode Island and Chuck Hospedales of Jasper successfully climbed Mt. Robson via the Hourglass. At 10:30 p.m., while descending rock ledges ...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF ARREST, NO BELAYAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressA three-person Spanish expedition named “McKinley 99” began their expedition on May 3 from the 7,200-foot basecamp on the Kahiltna Glacier. Expedition members includ...
La Hoja, East Face, New Route. In the Pingo valley, the Chilean team of Christian Oberli and Sven Bruchfeld established a new route on the east face of La Hoja in January, 1996. The route, which was done in “classic style” with fixed ropes, was 14...
Eiger. The second and third conquests of the Nordwand were recorded during the summer of 1947. Two French guides, Louis Lachenal, of Annecy, and Lionel Terray, of Chamonix, made the ascent in July, between 2.00 P.M. on the 14th and 2.25 P.M. on th...
Thorn Peak, East Face, 100 Years of Solitude. During late July, 1992, I traversed the Gakona Range from the range’s high peak (mislabeled on most maps) of Gakona over to Thom Peak (Peak 9200'). My main memory of the climb was banging in a ringing ...
Ganesh IV Tragedy. The Australian Army Expedition was composed of Zac Zaharias, Jim Truscott, Phil Pitham, Rob Philpot, John Cashman, Roy McDonald, Fritz Schaumberg, Dave Simpson, Dave Sloan, Sherpas Maila Pemba and Temba, and me as leader. We hop...
Cordillera Apolobamba, 1981. Alberto Campanile, Ostilio Campese, Gian- carlo Dalla Fina, Almo Giambisi and Giuseppe Pierantoni got to camp below the Riti Pass, east of the Soral group in the Cordillera Apolobamba on July 9, 1981. On July 10 they a...
Gasherbrum I and Gasherbrum II, Enchainment. The French climber and guide Jean-Christophe Lafaille, best known for climbing hard endurance routes, completed ascents of Gasherbrums II and I in one continuous push, without descending to Base Camp, i...
Devil's Thumb massif, everything. Four years ago on an expedition to nearby Oasis Peak, Dieter Klose planted a seed: the complete traverse of Devil’s Thumb. This seed grew into a dream that blossomed into reality in July, as Andre Ike of Squamish,...
Cordillera Apolobamba, Overview. After an unprecedented amount of activity in the area in 1997, 1998 saw three commercial expeditions and perhaps only four significant climbing trips to the Apolobamba. Conditions were good early in the season, but...
P 7401 and P 6283, Thompson Ridge Area, 1988. Austrian Thomas Schranz and I were flown to a sandbank in a river bed in the Thompson Ridge area. We found the rock terribly rotten and tried to keep as much as possible on snow and ice. After climbing...
SLIP ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, UNFAMILIAR WITH ROUTE Alaska, Mount McKinleyAbout 1300 on May 18,1986, Steven Locher (20) a member of a four man “Pro LeisureTour Expedition,” fell approximately 100 meters from the 4300 meter level while the pa...
Meru North. An all-woman Polish expedition was led by Danuta Wach. They made the first women’s ascent, following the Japanese-Austrian route via the northeast face and north ridge. On September 8 Aneila Lukaszewska, Ewa Pankiewicz and Danuta Wach ...
South Howser Spire, Northeast Buttress, Bugaboos. In the summer of 1990, Jon Turk and I climbed an excellent route on the left side of the east face of South Howser Spire. On the approach, we could see other inviting lines. In August of 1991, we r...