On Top of the World: Five Women Explorers in Tibet. Luree Miller. The Mountaineers, Seattle, 1984. 222 pages, black and white photographs, sketches, maps, bibliography. $8.95.Perhaps the most fascinating aspect of Luree Miller’s book is the variet...

Peak 3985m, Red Baron Tower, First Free Ascent. In August, Bruce Bindner and I climbed the old Fred Beckey-Barry Hagen route on this wall west of the south face of Lone Pine Peak, making what we believe to be the first free ascent (III, 5.10a). Th...

Everest West Ridge Attempt. Our British Services Everest Expedition was composed of Majors Bronco Lane, N.G. Williams, C.D. Spencer, R.C.A. McAllister, Lieutenant Colonel M.G. Bridges, Captain S.P. Lowe, Sergeants C. Barnes, T. Moore, Lance Corpor...

Our group of eight was inspired by photographs provided by Paul Knott, who visited this area in 2005 (AAJ 2006). We had a variety of ideas of peaks to attempt and ski descents to make around the heads of the Kotur and Fersmana Glaciers. We allow...

Matri. On September 11, Matri (6721 meters, 22,050 feet) was climbed by Indians Prasad Dhamal and Sher Singh. The 16-member expedition was led by Prajapati Bhodane. They followed the Matri Glacier from Chirbas and the southwest ridge of this steep...

FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY - IMPROPER USE OF BELAY DEVICEWyoming, Sinks Canyon, Killer Cave, Elmo's FishAt 2:55 P.M. on November 23, Kelly Rush (29) fell from Elmo’s Fish, a climb in the Killer Cave area of Sink’s Canyon. She was on lead at th...

Northern Borkoldoy, first ascents. The Borkoldoy Range in southeastern Kyrgyzstan has been explored by a handful of recent expeditions, which reported promising unclimbed alpine peaks: British (1995) in the northeast of the range, British (2002) i...

Colorado Mountain Club. For the third successive year the Colorado Mountain Club held two outings. The out-of-state outing, under Carl Blaurock, traveled to the Sierra Nevada for two weeks with the hope of climbing the 14,000-foot peaks in the Pal...

FALL ON ROCKWyoming, Thor PeakOn September 30, 1991, at 1000, Forest McCarthy (23) fell about 80 feet while climbing Thor Peak. His climbing partner, William Starrett (31), lowered McCarthy several hundred feet before leaving him to get help.At 14...

Innocents in PeruYves Laforest, Canadawe COMPLETED A TEAM of six climbers two weeks before departure: five from the Province of Québec, Jocelyn Ouellet, Jean-François Denis, Gérard Bourbonnais, Serge Dufour and me and one from Nevada, Mike Tupper....

Api Attempt. A five-member British expedition led by Robert Brown was unable to complete the climb of the south face of Api (7132 meters, 23,399 feet), reaching only 6000 meters on October 10.Elizabeth Hawley

FALL ON ROCK, PLACED INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNorth Carolina, Stone Mountain State ParkOn February 27, my two partners and I were getting ready to climb Mercury’s Lead off the tree ledge. Two young women (I’ll call them Jane and Joan) came walking dow...

Buni Zom Main, attempt; Buni Zom South; 6MT, first ascent; 6MT West, attempt; Buli Zom, new route on north face and death. I had previously been to the Buni Zom range, northeast of Chitral in the western Hindu Raj, in 2002 and 2004. Our aim was Bu...

The Fairweather MountainsW. S. LaddTO sail on salt water to the base of an ice-laden mountain range is a rare adventure. To disembark, step onto ice and begin an ascent of 12,000 ft. or more, involving glacier and rock work of the best mountaineer...

VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PRORLEMS New York, Mohonk Preserve, ShawangunksEighteen accidents were reported in 1993, nine of which resulted in fractures, and one of which resulted in a fatality—the first since 1983. The latter occurred in Oc...

The Japanese ExchangeRosamond C. AndrewsNEW YORK TO Anchorage to Seoul and back to Tokyo is the cheap way to Japan from the east coast, and thus my route of choice. My flight is not only circuitous, it’s premature; I’m arriving two days earlier th...

Kula Kangri Central and East, first ascents. In spring a joint expedition comprising 11 Japanese (leader, Yoshitsugu Deriha) and eight Tibetans (leader, Tseden Jigmy) made the first ascents of Kula Kangri Central (Kula Kangri II; 7418m) and Kula K...

Shisha Pangma Medical Expedition. The Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto and the Kyoto University Medical School sent a medical expedition to Shisha Pangma. We had 32 Japanese and two Chinese members. There were 13 medical doctors, two clinical laborat...

We planned to climb the northeast ridge on Pokharkan, but the arrival of a violent wind, with gusts of 80-100 km/hour at 6,000m, forced us to find a route that was more sheltered. Nevertheless, heavy snow, the cold (-15°C or lower), and strong win...

At the end of September Denis Burdet (Swiss), David Lama (Austrian), Stefan Siegrist (Swiss), and American photographer Robert Frost made the second ascent of Cerro Kishtwar (6,155m). This area of the eastern Kishtwar Himalaya, untouched by the mo...