Mt. Moroni, The Road to Cumorah. In April, Chris Rowins, Dave Jones, and I climbed a new nine-pitch route on Mt. Moroni. The Road to Cumorah (IV 5.11 Cl) begins at the far east end of the of the southwest face. We started in a short, clean, left-c...
HAPE, HACE, CLIMBING ALONEAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressAt 1813 on May 27, Joshua Wax (28), a solo climber experiencing symptoms of high altitude cerebral edema (HACE) and high altitude pulmonary edema (HAPE), was evacuated by helicopter fr...
A.A.C., Blue Ridge Section. This is a new Section of members living in Maryland, portions of North Carolina and Pennsylvania, Virginia, West Virginia and the District of Columbia. In October 1976 at an informal meeting in Washington D.C. members a...
Prusik Peak, South Face of West Ridge. On August 3, after being stopped the previous day, Rich Romano led through the large overhangs 50 feet to the right of our 1987 route. A pitch higher in a big alcove, we crossed left of the other route, then ...
Special Olympics, south ridge. My wife Anna Liljedahl, Andy Stern, and I flew into the Hayes Range from the Denali Highway with Gracious Air on June 8. The short, relatively inexpensive flight landed us on a fish-filled pristine lake a day’s hike ...
FALL ON ROCK, HANDHOLD CAME OFF–FAILURE TO TEST HOLDS, UNROPEDAlberta, Waterdog, North D'art Area, ObliterationOn November 13, B.P. and T.M. were approaching the ice climb Obliteration (30 metre WI4) in the North Drywood area between Waterton Nati...
Dhaulagiri Ski Attempt. (See also account immediately above.) The Franco-Swiss expedition led by Sylvain Saudan had been given permission for the northwest ridge but moved onto the northeast ridge, the Spanish route. On the night of May 13 two mem...
Merced Peak, North Face. In early July, Mary Bomba and I made the first ascent of this face. In the middle of the face an obvious ramp diagonals up and right. We climbed to the bottom of the ramp over some loose F7, then ascended the poorly protec...
The Tetons: Interpretations of a Mountain Landscape, by Fritiof Fryxell. Berkeley, Calif. : University of California Press, 1938. $1.50.Once more we have a book on the Tetons by one of the best informed students of the geology and climbing history...
Aconcagua, First Female Ascent of the South Face. In January my wife Titoune and I climbed the south face of Aconcagua by the French route, using the Messner finish. This is a superb climb on a par with great classics like the Eiger North Face, El...
Dartmouth Mountaineering Club. The main activity of the school year is the operation of the climbing school. The course, which carries credit for physical education, introduces about 50 undergraduates to the fundamentals of mountaineering. This cl...
West Kahiltna Peak (3,914m/12,835') is just off of the Kahiltna Glacier, and every West Buttress ascensionist looks at its west ridge of as they make their home at Camp 1. It is the obvious ridge closest to the northeast fork of the Kahiltna and m...
Nepal Peak Attempt. Our French-Nepalese expedition had six French members, M. and Mme Ansart, S. Lazizi, Dr. F. Tanery, my wife and me, and three Nepalese, Chewang Rinzee Sherpa, Lhakpa Sherpa and Jambia Sherpa. We hoped to climb the virgin south ...
Cordillera Huaytapallana and Peak near Huagaruncho. Hiroshi Koizumi, Naoki Toda, Yoshikazu Koizumi and I left Huancayo on May 7 and reached Base Camp in the Huaytapallana quickly that day. The weather was bad and it rained almost every day. We cli...
Williams. In 1950 the Williams Outing Club has continued its mountaineering activities along the lines set in 1949. Several members climbed in Colorado and Wyoming, and in the Canadian Rockies. The Club has shown a film on rock climbing in the Alp...
Tongse Debi. An unnamed 20,000-foot peak was climbed on May 27 by an Indo-Bhutanese team led by Major D. N. Tankha. After leaving Wangduphudrang on May 1, they established Base Camp at 14,000 feet. The King of Bhutan has named the peak Tongse Debi...
Tawoche Attempt. Mal Duff, Tony Brindle, Adrian Moore and I established Base Camp at 5000 meters at the foot of the east face of Tawoche on April 10. The original plan for our line on the east face had to be abandoned due to a lack of snow and ice...
Tasermiut Fjord, Tininnertuup, northeast face, attempt. Sarah and Tony Whitehouse attempted a major variation to the unrepeated Rapakivi Road on the northeast face of Tininnertuup (1,725m), the 1,000m route (28 pitches,1,300m of climbing) put up i...
VARIOUS FALLS ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLING, FALLING ROCK, INADEQUATE PROTECTIONNew York, ShawangunksIn addition to the above accident in the Gunks, there were 24 other reports, of which 17 are counted as climbing for purposes of this journal. Fourt...
Makalu II (Kangchungtse). The Chiba University expedition to Makalu II or Kangchungtse (25,066 feet) was led by Dr. Makoto Numata. After the planned west ridge route was abandoned, they turned to the south ridge via Makalu col. The highest camp wa...