Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error/Failure, Climbing Alone Canada, Ontario, Dryden, Banana Lake

On May 6, a lone climber with 22 years of experience headed out to the Banana Lake climbing area. The pull-off is four kilometers down a logging road, and the walk to the cliff is one kilometer. Between 9 and 10:30 a.m., the climber did some route...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall into Crevasse, Skiing Unroped Canada, British Columbia, Yoho National Park, Daly Glacier, Wapta Icefields

A party of three was ski touring over a number of days from Peyto Lake to Sherbrooke Lake on the popular Wapta Traverse. The group left Balfour Hut around 11 a.m. on the morning of March 12, and crossed over the Balfour High Col (approximately 3,0...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Inadequate Equipment, Inexperience Canada, British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Uto Peak

On July 6 about 6 a.m., a party of three left the parking lot to climb the southwest ridge of Uto Peak (2,927 meters). They had some difficulty with the steep snow on the approach to the Uto– Sir Donald col, due to very lightweight footwear, and t...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Avalanche Canada, British Columbia, Glacier National Park, Sifton Col

Around 2 p.m. on March 24, a party of three began a ski descent of the southwest slope below Sifton Col. It was a mild, clear day with light winds. Two members of the group remained at the top of the slope, while one skied down to assess condition...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Rockfall Canada, Alberta, Keelhaul Wall, Kid Goat

On July 13 a climber dislodged a rock on pitch four of Kid Goat, which struck his belayer on the left ankle, fracturing it. The injured climber phoned for a rescue after a self-assessment. While Kananaskis Public Safety (KPS) was responding, the p...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error/Failure Canada, Alberta, Grassl Lakes, Fiberglass Undies

The climber had prepared to rappel from the top of a sport route. As the rappeller descended she removed the upper three quickdraws. Shortly after that, the climber fell to the ground and landed on her back. It was noted that the rope ends were un...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock - Handhold Came Off Canada, Alberta, Banff National Park, Tunnel Mountain, Gooseberry

On July 21 a party of three was climbing Gooseberry, a seven-pitch, 5.7 rock route. The lead climber was on pitch three when he dislodged a loose handhold. He fell approximately 10 meters and landed on his back, sustaining injuries. One partner cl...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error/Failure Canada, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mt. Redoubt, Northwest Ridge

In the afternoon of August 15, Visitor Safety received a call about an overdue solo climber on the northwest ridge of Mt. Redoubt (3,120 meters, Grade III, 5.6) in the remote Tonquin Valley in Jasper National Park. Initial investigation found that...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded - Weather Canada, Alberta, Jasper National Park, Mt. Edith Cavell, East Ridge

In the early morning of August 9, two climbers left the Cavell parking lot at 3:30 a.m. for an attempt on the east ridge of Mt. Edith Cavell (3,363 meters, Grade III, 5.3). They bypassed rock terrain to climb a snow gully at the start of the route...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded, Weather Canada, Yukon Territory, Kluane National Park, Mt. Eaton

The events in question occurred between May 7 and May 19. Prior to this, the climbers spent a week in Haines, Alaska, waiting to fly in to the Seward Glacier, during which time storms broke precipitation records for much of southeast Alaska. Forec...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet Canyon, Petzoldt Caves

On September 6, between 5:30 and 5:45 p.m., Edward Tom (40) fell 80–100 feet to his death while scrambling within the camping area known as the Petzoldt Caves Camping Zone. Tom had a two-night camping permit for Petzoldt Caves, but when he arrived...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Rockfall Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Garnet Canyon

On August 27, at 9:15 a.m., a large rockslide occurred in the South Fork of Garnet Canyon. A single climber was buried and seriously injured when his party of three was caught in the outwash of a gully near the north side of Nez Perce Peak.The ini...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Loss of Control - Voluntary Glissade Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Hanging Canyon

At 3:45 p.m. on July 12, I (Ron Johnson) was notified of a request to assist an injured person in Hanging Canyon. The climber (first name “Frank”) stated that his partner, Loren Hall (33), was at their camp with an injured leg. Frank was descendin...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock - Very Large Handhold Broke Free Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Mt. Owen, Crescent Arête

On June 20 at 2:26 p.m., Teton Interagency Dispatch Center transferred an emergency cell phone call from Jeff Judkins (38) to Rescue Coordinator G. Montopoli. Judkins was climbing on the Crescent Arête (Grade III, 5.7) of Mt. Owen with climbing pa...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow - Poor Snow Conditions, Guide Distraction Wyoming, Grand Teton National Park, Grand Teton

On June 17, after climbing the Grand Teton and descending in the shade on hard, frozen snow with crampons, we came across an area that had been in the sun for less than an hour. We were 10 meters above a large ledge. We moved over to follow the fo...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded - Knee Jammed in Crack Wyoming, Vedauwoo, Easy Jam

On April 21 a climber (mid-20s) got his knee stuck in the crack of a 40-foot climb called Easy Jam (5.4) on the Nautilus formation. Neil Mathison, on duty as Albany County Sheriff’s deputy, and Rick Colling, of the Wyoming Highway Patrol, were on ...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error, No Knots on Ends of Rope West Virginia, New River Gorge National River, Star Trek Wall

On Monday, September 23, National Park Service rangers responded to a climbing accident at Star Trek Wall. A male climber (age unknown) had rappelled off the end of his rope and fell about 35 feet. He sustained lower limb and back injuries in the ...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock West Virginia, New River Gorge National River, Endless Wall

On September 14 a female climber (30) made her first trip to New River Gorge. She fell while leading Totally-Clipse (5.8) on Endless Wall. After placing protection she attempted a move, lost her hold, and fell. During the fall she remembered catch...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Lowering Error - New Situation West Virginia, New River Gorge National River, Fern Buttress, Star Trek Wall

On August 26 my partner Sean (27) and I (28) were climbing Transporter Crack (5.6). Sean set up a Black Diamond ATC-Guide device in guide mode to belay me from above. When I was ready to lower, instead of taking me off belay and switching to a mor...

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| Published 2013


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock, Off Route, Protection Pulled Out West Virginia, Seneca Rock

On April 8, Stephen Robinson (22) was climbing off-route near Orangeaid (5.10b), close to the last pitch of Castor, when he fell after placing a fifth piece of gear. The fall caused his top three placements (a nut, a 0.75 cam, and an offset nut) t...

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| Published 2013