On July 18, Ryan Evans and I climbed what we believe to be a new route on the Arctic Lake Wall in Sequoia National Park, to the west of Mt. Russell. Located on the western summit of the Arctic Lake Wall, the route begins in highly featured orange ...
On the morning of February 8, Jacob “Jake” Lloyd, an experienced mountaineer from Utah, was climbing alone on the Jamapa Glacier, the normal route up the 18,491-foot mountain. At approximately 18,200 feet, a snow bridge collapsed and Jake fell abo...
On April 21, after six weeks of watching from a distance as a gigantic storm system pummeled the Alaska Range, Jess Roskelley and I saw a forecast for a weather window long enough to fly into the Kichatna Spires. With our primary objective out of ...
Kei Taniguchi and I established base camp for our attempt on Pandra after traveling three days by bus and eight days on foot from Kathmandu. In the fall of 2002, three Danes made the first ascent of Pandra via the south face (TD-), recording GPS m...
Sergio Martín de Santos and I arrived in Leh on June 30, and after acclimatizing near town we headed to Stok Kangri (6,150m), which we climbed on July 6 via the normal route. This completed our acclimatization and the following day we walked up to...
On September 5, Jeff Gicklhorn, Patrick O'Donnell, and I free climbed a new route on the Incredible Hulk. Jeff and I had envisioned this route in 2014, and we took two calendar years to equip it, making many short weekend trips spread out over thr...
Jaime Cavazos on Super Cruiser, the short, overhanging route where the author fell. The shelf where the author first landed is visible in front of the belayer. Photo by John Hogge On October 8, at the start of good cli...
Sairam (4,238m, 42°8'16.04"N, 70°28'50.44"E) is situated on the Ugam Ridge of the Western Tien Shan, approximately 150km northeast of Tashkent and 350km west-southwest of Bishkek. The northern aspect is a fine alpine face, with room for new ro...
A couple of years ago, a photo of unclimbed spires rising out of glacial ice sparked the inspiration for an expedition to the Neacolas, a remote subrange of the Alaska and Aleutian ranges. The dream soon grew beyond climbing these peaks to include...
On May 2, Jon Bracey and I set off to attempt the unclimbed northwest ridge of the Citadel (8,305’) in the Neacola Mountains. Unfortunately, a few days before our arrival, a heavy snowfall buried the ridge under powder, making for slow going. On t...
Pioneering Northwest skier, climber, rescuer, kayaker, and conservationist Wolf Bauer died on January 23, a month shy of his 104th birthday. Born in Bavaria on February 24, 1912, Bauer immigrated to Seattle with his family in 1925. As a Boy Scout,...
In AAJ 2016 we reported Jim Gregson’s second known ascent of Mt. Mighty and an addendum where he described finding the remnants of a cairn at the highest rocks, some 40m from the summit. Within these fallen stones he discovered a small bottle cont...
Norwich Ledge is a 100m rhyolite escarpment north of Bergland, in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Since learning of this cliff a couple of years ago, I had always wanted to make the roughly 5-mile ski approach to see the potential for winter climbing....
On June 29, Chad Watkins (age 49) was attempting the crux of the route Big Top, a 5.12a trad climb in the Greatest Show area of the Meadow River Gorge. The nature of the crack requires foot placements near and just above gear. As Chad attempted to...
Muz Tok: (1) The attempted line on the north face with the bivouac (B) marked;(2) The route used in descent. The pyramid behind is Pik Schurovsky (5,490m).Photo by John Proctor On July 5, after a two-day walk from Sary Zhaz...
Matthew Irving (USA), Julian Kenchenten (Canada), Paolo Marazzi (Italy), Angela Percival (Canada), Vikki Weldon (Canada), and I left Isafjordur, Iceland, on August 18 aboard the sailboat Aurora. Captain Vidar Kristinsson and first mate Rasmus Jons...
In February 2016, Martin Håskjold Larsen, Clare Mains, Barry Smith, Fernando Virot, and I opened a new route on the west face of Cerro Capicua, which we called Picaflor (meaning “Hummingbird”). The face has been estimated to be 1,200m; our route w...
In early 2016, JB Haab and I opened a new route on the Wall of Patience ground-up, calling it Iron Skirt. This wall is located on the left side of the Anfiteatro, downstream of the route Al Centro y Adentro (AAJ 2012) on Atardecer; I don’t think a...
During the 1970s, when the Altar Massif saw many of its first ascents, the well-known Ecuadorian climber Ramiro Navarrete attempted the southwest ridge of Canónigo (5,260m). Although he did not succeed, he dubbed the ridge Elena, after his daughte...
At the end of May, the Expedition Climbers Club set out from New Zealand for a five-week trip to the Cordillera Blanca. The team was comprised of Steven Fortune, Pete Harris, Daniel Joll, Alastair McDowell, Reg Measures, Claire Measures, Jaz Morri...