Accident Reports ANAM
Lowering Error – Inexperience, Communication Problems Colorado, Turkey Rocks, Turkey Perch

On February 7, a female climber with two years of climbing experience executed a slow but clean lead of Left Handed Jew, a 5.7 trad route. I was top-rope belaying a climber 20 feet to the left of their route. During the climb, several observers no...

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| Published 2015 | Author Mark Williams R.N.


Accident Reports ANAM
Lowering Error – Inexperience, Communication Issues Colorado, Pikes Peak

On August 22 a female climber (age 39) was injured while being lowered from the anchor after top-roping a trad climb. She was in a climbing party of five exploring a granite crag near the Crags Trailhead. Just below the anchor, it was necessary to...

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| Published 2015 | Author The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Lowering Error, Inadequate Belay Colorado, Eldorado Canyon, The Naked Edge

Two experienced climbers, ages 31 and 28, were attempting the Naked Edge (5.11b) in August. The leader of the 5.11a first pitch belayed at a two-bolt anchor and set up to belay the second directly off the anchor with an ATC-Guide device in autoblo...

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| Published 2015 | Author The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection Colorado, Eldorado Canyon, Bastille Crack

On the morning of July 13, a party was climbing the first pitch of the Bastille Crack (5.7+), which was well within the leader’s climbing ability. The leader placed his first piece in a crack/flake about nine feet off the deck, then climbed up a c...

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| Published 2015 | Author Anonymous online submission by the leader


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Late Start, Darkness, Failed to Follow Directions Colorado, Eldorado Canyon, Redgarden Wall

My climbing partner and I (ages 33 and 30) arrived at Eldo early on March 29, intending to climb Swanson’s Arête, a multi-pitch 5.5. We got to the base around 10 a.m. There was a very inexperienced party starting the first pitch of an adjacent ro...

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| Published 2015 | Author Anonymous Report from One of the Climbers


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Climbing Alone Colorado, Boulder, Second Flatiron

On March 6 a solo climber attempted Call the Copps, an ephemeral ice climb (WI3 M3) on the east face of the Second Flatiron. When he found the route deteriorating in warm weather and threatened by falling ice, he instead climbed mixed terrain near...

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| Published 2015 | Author The Editors


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Tree Anchor Colorado, Boulder Canyon

On August 16, 2014, a guide (uncertified) took four clients (two males and two females in their 20s) to a top-rope climbing area in Boulder Canyon. None of the clients had climbed before. The clients first did two routes that had anchor bolts with...

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| Published 2014 | Author Jed Williamson


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Protection Pulled Out Colorado, Boulder Canyon, The Boulderado

On March 16, in the early evening, I was climbing at the Boulderado. As a moderately experienced climber, but new trad leader, I attempted to lead Jam It (5.8- ). This single-pitch route passes a small roof with a great hand-size crack. After plac...

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| Published 2015 | Author Anonymous report to Accidents Website


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow – Inadequate Protection Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Deep Freeze

On March 31 we began the direct start of Deep Freeze, a rock chimney (M5-6) that finishes on a low-angle snow slope in a broad gully. This leads to a shelf before rambling ice and a final ice pillar (WI5-6). My partner started up the chimney and f...

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| Published 2015 | Author Anonymous Partner of Fallen Climber


Feature Article AAJ
Patagonia Today The Torre Traverse and the Wave Effect in One Day Each

Torre Traverse in a Day: Alex Honnold and I had only one sure goal for the season: the Torre Traverse in less than 24 hours. We had nearly succeeded on this awesome objective the year before, retreating two pitches below the top of Cerro Torre—the...

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| Published 2016 | Author Colin Haley


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Lurking Fear

On September 19, at approximately 5:30 p.m., YOSAR was notified about a climber who had taken a 15-meter fall on Lurking Fear. The climber suffered serious injuries, including possible head trauma. The reporting party was another climbing team on ...

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| Published 2015 | Author Yosemite Ranger Eric Bissell


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Climbing Alone California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, Tangerine Trip

On June 17, Yosemite Search and Rescue responded to a 6 a.m. request for help from a solo climber on pitch 15 of Tangerine Trip (VI 5.7 A3/C3). He reported that he had lost partial use of both hands and that completing the climb was no longer viab...

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| Published 2015 | Author NPS Ranger Brandon Latham


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error – Darkness California, Yosemite Valley, Washington Column

On October 30, at approximately 8:45 p.m., Yosemite Dispatch received a report that a climber, Ethan Gillett, had fallen 100 to 200 feet from the South Face Route (V 5.8 C1) on Washington Column and landed on Dinner Ledge. Another climber, a Wilde...

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| Published 2015 | Author NPS Rangers Brandon Latham and John Dill


Accident Reports ANAM
Rappel Error California, Yosemite, El Capitan, The Nose

On May 27, five climbers had gathered near Camp VI on the Nose—a team of two and a team of three had been climbing alongside each other over the previous days. A member of the team of three was leading midway up the Changing Corners pitch, above C...

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| Published 2015 | Author NPS Ranger Brandon Latham


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Rock – Inadequate Protection California, Yosemite Valley, El Capitan, The Nose

On May 9, at approximately 9:30 a.m., YOSAR dispatch received a call about an injured climber who had taken a 20-foot leader fall on the first pitch of the Nose. As YOSAR mobilized to El Cap Meadow, a ranger at the base of Pine Line (a 5.7 crack j...

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| Published 2015 | Author NPS Ranger Brandon Latham


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow or Ice California, Mt. Shasta, Hotlum-Bolam Route

At approximately 10 a.m. on October 10, rangers Forrest Coots and Matt Dooley received a radio transmission reporting a climber (male, mid-20s) with a broken ankle on the Hotlum-Bolam Route. The climber reportedly fell above 12,000 feet on an ice ...

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| Published 2015 | Author Mt. Shasta Wilderness Climbing Ranger Report 2015 and Siskiyou County SAR.


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow – Glissading With Crampons California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch

On June 16 a female climber was descending the Avalanche Gulch Route with crampons on her boots. While glissading just below the Red Banks, at about 12,000 feet, both of her crampons caught in the snow, breaking her ankles and taking her for a goo...

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| Published 2015 | Author Mt. Shasta Wilderness Climbing Ranger Report 2015


Accident Reports ANAM
Fall on Snow – Failure to Self-Arrest California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch

Michael Murphy, in his mid-50s, was climbing the Avalanche Gulch Route with partners early the morning of June 11. They reached the Red Banks and decided to turn around. They had begun descending when, at about 12,400 feet, Murphy caught his cramp...

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| Published 2015 | Author Mt. Shasta Wilderness Climbing Ranger Report 2015


Accident Reports ANAM
Stranded – Darkness, Inexperience, Climbing Alone California, Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch–Casaval Ridge

On April 10 a male climber in his 20s attempted a solo ski ascent via Avalanche Gulch and Casaval Ridge. The weather was clear and the conditions ideal for such a trip. He started climbing at 4 a.m. and did not summit until 7 p.m. While descending...

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| Published 2015 | Author Mt. Shasta Wilderness Climbing Ranger Report 2015


Climbs And Expeditions AAJ
Central Tower of Rapa Nui: The Northern Belle Alaska, Coast Mountains

On June 18, Chris Moore, Cooper Varney, Will Wacker, and I completed the first ascent of the Central Tower of Rapa Nui (7,015’). This formation is the centerpiece of a collection of granite towers two miles east of Klukwah Mountain (7,000’), to th...

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| Published 2016 | Author Tyler Botzon