On June 28, Andres Marin and I drove from Cusco to Ollantaytambo. From here we continued up a paved highway (28B) that goes up a steep valley, with seemingly endless switchbacks, to a pass called Puerto Malaga and then down the other side to the l...
Rising to 4,509m above the rainforests of Papua New Guinea, Mt. Wilhelm is the highest in the country. Due to its glaciated past, Mt. Wilhelm comes with scenic lakes and several steep rock faces—the latter not covered in the dense rainforest that ...
After my brother Tomas Franchini and I spent one week in El Chaltén with bad weather, we decided in late January 2017 to move north toward Perito Moreno National Park. After six hours in the car, we slept at Gobernador Gregores and the next day co...
In the winter of 2016, Didier Jourdain presented a photo of Siulá Grande’s east face to his teammates of the Groupe Militaire de Haute Montagne (GMHM). In 2003, Didier had visited the Cordillera Huayhuash and climbed a wonderful new route on Jiris...
It’s never easy to find a fine new line, especially when your requirements border close to arrogance: unclimbed, vertical, sunny, with good rock, and, of course, all free. However, we managed to find a jewel in Peru, realizing a new route up the n...
Cerro Castillo (2,675m) is one of the iconic mountains of the Aysén Region in Northern Patagonia. Two new routes were climbed on the peak in the austral summer of 2016.On January 22–23, Sebastian Rojas, Diego Señoret, and Claudio Vicuña climbed Ps...
In March and April, as part of the multi-objective expedition “Incognita Patagonia,” Ibai Rico (Spain) and I (USA, based in U.K.) spent several weeks in southernmost Tierra del Fuego. We based out of the sailboat Northanger. Among the expedition’s...
French climbers Jérôme Chazelas and Thomas Quillet reported reaching the summit of Tirich Mir (7,708m), the highest peak in the Hindu Kush, in July, via the normal route (the 1967 Czechoslovak Route up the northwest face via the upper Tirich Glaci...
Czech mountaineer Marek Holecek was back for his fourth attempt at a new route on the southwest face of Gasherbrum I, this time with Ondra Mandula. The pair first acclimatized on the normal route, reaching 7,500m. They set off for a summit attempt...
Shortly after daylight on September 22, Chris Knight (Canada) and I left our base camp at 4,800m in the valley that leads northeast to the Chearoco Glacier (between Chearoco and Chachacomani). We gained 500m and then scrambled along the west ridge...
Rodrigo Lobo and I climbed a partial new route on Pico del Norte (6,050m) in the Illampu group in July. After waiting a day at our base camp because of snowy weather, we started up the left side of the northwest face by climbing the initial corner...
On January 20, Sergio Condori and I deviated from the road leading to Zongo Pass a few meters after the police checkpoint, leaving the car as close as possible to the south side of Pico Milluni. After a one-hour approach, we geared up under a gran...
On June 3, Marcelo Gomez (Bolivia) and I climbed a 150m, three-pitch, traditionally protected route on the south face of a granite buttresses of the Khala Cruz group, to the east of the 5,200m highest summit. We started our climb at 2 p.m, at ca 5...
On April 29, during a course for aspirant UIAGM guides, Carlos Vasquez and I, closely followed by a second team of Max Alvarez, Juvenal Condori, and Roberto Gomez, climbed a mixed line on Janchallani (IGM 5943 III map; other maps refer to it as Ve...
On May 19, members of the 2016 IFMGA aspirants guides’ course, with instructors Roberto Gomez and Eduardo Unzueta, climbed a new line up the north ridge of Pico Mesili, a summit on the northeast ridge of Huayna Potosi. We approached the previous d...
On May 13, during a UIAGM aspirant course, Pacifico Machaca, Sebastian Rojas, and I climbed a new route on the Cuernos del Diablo, right of the established route Inti Wiracocha. We believe our first four pitches were previously unclimbed, given th...
Fastness Peak (2,383m) dominates the skyline above Ruth Flat in the Mt. Aspiring region. The east face is a forbidding wall of compact schist streaked with ice runnels. The first winter ascent was made in 1997 by Clinton Beavan, Al Uren, and Al Wo...
“You should try your hand at Mt. Wilson,” touted a climbing partner. “I know a guy, he's always stoked.” A quick phone call later, the plans were made. Before I knew it, Kyle Willis and I were on the summit of Mt. Wilson via the classic Inti Watan...
On September 14, Chris Knight and I climbed a nice, diverse line that combined ridge climbing on good granite with the crossing of beautiful fields of penitentes. We drove to Laguna Jankho Khota, camped, and the next morning continued by car to an...
Between May 10 and 12, Mike Gardner and I climbed a variation to First Born (Helmuth-House, AAJ 1996) on Denali’s Fathers and Sons Wall. To our knowledge, ours was the fourth ascent of the wall. [Editor’s note: The Fathers and Sons Wall, which ris...