P 10,240, Lemhi Mountains. For the most part, the Lemhi Mountains are rounded peaks of rotten sedimentary rock which offer little opportunity for interesting technical climbing. Fortunately, there is an exception. Located at the end of the Bear Va...
FALL ON SNOW, FAILED TO FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT California, Mount GilbertOn June 22,1986, a group of climbers was descending the snowy west side of the crest ridge in order to ascend a snow chute to the summit of Mount Gilbert. T...
Chogolisa, Northwest Spur. In mid-May Adi Fischer, Hubert Wendlinger, Ludwig Nüssl, Georg Aicher, Heinz Fischer and I as leader drove from Rawalpindi to Skardu. Our approach up the Baltoro Glacier went according to plan, though we were snowed in a...
Santa Cruz Chico, east face to within 20m of summit. Scottish-based Jason Currie and Guy Robertson made a new route up the east face of the rarely climbed Santa Cruz Chico (a.k.a. Atuncocha), the 5,800m peak on the ridge between Santa Cruz (6,259m...
La Conquête du Salcantay, Géant des Andes, by Bernard Pierre. 193 pages, 15 illustrations, 3 maps, bibliographies. Glossary of Quechua and Spanish expressions by Prof. Theodoro Meneses. Paris: Amiot-Dumont, 1953.This book is an unqualified “must” ...
Aconcagua South Face. On January 3,I managed to climb the south face of Aconcagua on the direct (Messner) route, solo, in 15 ½ hours. It took another 5½ hours to descend the normal route. I was the only climber to do the direct route in the past t...
FALL ON SNOW, UNABLE TO SELF-ARREST Alaska, Mount McKinelyOn May 18, 1988, a nine member Genet Expeditions guided climbing team departed the 5200 meter high camp on the West Buttress of Mount McKinley and began their ascent toward the summit. Chie...
Gasherbrum II. Ours was the first commercial French expedition to an 8000er. We had three guides: Michel Vincent, Alberto Re and me. On July 11 Vincent, Re, Olivier Paulin, Theo Mayer, Pierre Gévaux, André Molinaire, Christian Frémont, all French ...
Squaretop. The right skyline of Squaretop when viewed from the Green River Lakes presents a 1800-foot sweep of excellent rock. When we arrived below the buttress after a hard approach, my brother Greg, Kent Christensen and I looked up in despair. ...
Middle Teton, North Face. To the east of the northwest chimney route, first climbed in 1955 by Goodrich and Reppy, is another similar chimney less attractive than the first and separated from it by a smooth face. From the Lower Saddle on July 30, ...
SLIP ON SNOW, INAPPROPRIATE EQUIPMENT/TECHNIQUEAlberta, Rocky Mountains, Mount LefroyOn the morning of July 7, 1990, a party of two were descending the west face of Mount Lefroy, unroped. While glissading, sitting and wearing crampons, one of them...
Nevado Santa Cruz. We four, Jean Baehler, Claude Guinans, Serge Claudet and I, started our approach from Colcas, an hacienda above Caraz with one porter and ten donkeys. We took three days to go past the lake, Cullicocha, between 14,100- and 15,10...
Panch Chuli. P. W. Nikore, the leader of an Indian expedition on 27 May 1953 claims to have climbed Panch Chuli (22,255 ft.) in Garhwal in a two-day ascent from his high camp. The Scots had failed in 1950 and the Germans in 1951 on this mountain. ...
Sheep Gap Mountain, South Face. Tony Hovey and party climbed this face in midsummer, and found it to be primarily class 4. The Ram’s Horn, a subsidiary point, has also been climbed.
Hispar Sar, attempt. On September 17 the British Hispar Sar Expedition 2004 (Andy Parkin and myself) set up a base camp at Yutmal (a small ablation valley on the north of the Hispar Glacier to the west of the Yutmaru Glacier), after a two-and-a-ha...
Manaslu Women’s Expedition. The Japanese Women’s Manaslu Expedition was made up of Kyoko Sato, commander, Tsune Kuroishi, leader, Masko Uchida, Michiko Sekida, Mieko Mori, Masako Itakura, Mutsumi Natashima, Teiko Suzuki, Tomako Itoh, Shizu Harata,...
FALL OR SLIP ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUTTennessee, Tennessee Wall, Blood-on-the-RocksFellow climbers and rescue crews evacuated an injured climber on January 25 at the Tennessee Wall after she took a serious leader fall.Jesse (22) was leading B...
Three Penguins, Arches National Park. In November Larry Bruce, Molly Higgins and I did two short new routes on the Three Penguins formation. A moderate pitch starting right at the road ends on a large ledge at the base of the Penguins themselves. ...
Ascents in the Ulu area. On June 28, Adam Kolff and his father Kees were landed by Kurt Gloyer of Gulf Air Taxi, Yakutat, on a 6,100-foot pass in the small isolated mountain sub-range 15 miles southeast of Mount Kennedy, Kluane National Park. Two ...
STRANDED, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT, EXCEEDING ABILITIES Colorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Lumpy RidgeOn September 2, 1992, at 1615, Nan Derkiss (30) and John Quackenbush became stranded when they got their rope stuck on the second pitch of Pear ...