Cathedral Spires, Kichatna Mountains. We were four in the Kichatnas as usual, but while this was my third trip, it was the first for Bryan Becker, Rob Milne, and Andy Tuthill. The mood in Talkeetna when we arrived was dismal. Several parties had b...
The Mountain EnvironmentThe year in garbageby Brent Bishop and Chris NaumannEach year, climbers push the limit of what previously was thought possible in the mountains. Eight thousand-meter peaks, once considered the domain of only a handful of el...
Kangtega’s Northeast ButtressJay SmithMY OVERBOOTS WERE rapidly disintegrating before my eyes. No matter how I kicked and stomped, no warmth was generated to thaw the freezing Lincoln Logs where my toes were supposed to be.“My goddamn toes are fre...
LEIGH N. ORTENBURGER1929-1991On October 19, 1991, Leigh N. Ortenburger, who had survived over 40 years of active mountaineering in the world’s greatest mountain ranges, died in the firestorm that swept the Oakland, California hills and destroyed 3...
FALL, PROTECTION FAILURE, OFF ROUTE—California, Yosemite Valley. On April 30, Suzanne Carne (31) and John Carne (30) parked near Rixon’s Pinnacle at 7 a.m. and walked to what they thought was Lower Brother — Southwest Arrete. Mr. Carne did not thi...
Attempt on Yerupajá. The unsuccessful attempt of the Scottish Expedition of 1964 to Yerupajá (A.A.J., 1965, 12:2 p. 447) left two of its members anxious to prove a route that seemed feasible. The 1966 party consisted of Dez Hadlum, Ian Howell and ...
PROTECTION PULLED OUT, FALL ON ROCK, NO HARD HAT California, Tuolumne Meadows, Stately Pleasure DomeOn June 7, 1996, Shannon Meredith, 25, and Dennis Papa decided to climb “West Country”, 5.7 PG, on Stately Pleasure Dome in Tuolumne Meadows. Shann...
Retinal Haemorrhage at AltitudeJohn R. Sutton, M.B., B.S., M.R.A.C.P., F.R.C.P.(C)*, Gary W. Gray, M.D., Ph.D., Murray McFadden, M.D., A.C. Peter Powles, M.B., B.S., F.R.A.C.P., F.R.C.P.(C) and Charles S. Houston, M.D.oN MOUNT LOGAN, Canada’s high...
Ascents in Bolivia. Our former contributor, Mr. Joseph Prem, sends a remarkable list of his ascents in 1939, followed by an article which will appear in the next issue of the Journal:June 30: First ascent of the Cerro de Santa Vela Cruz (5600 m.),...
Mount Thor, Chugach Range. The main and middle peaks of Mount Marcus Baker (13,176 and 12,850 feet) are separated by a drop of only 500 feet and thus may be considered peaks of the same mountain. Thirty years elapsed after Marcus Baker’s first asc...
Preserving the Cracks!Compiled by TOM FROSTWhatever liberates our spirit without giving us self control is disastrous — Goethe PITON crack deterioration as a result of repeated placement and removal of hard steel pitons is becoming a serious probl...
Mountaineers. In 1951 the annual outing of the Mountaineers, of Seattle, was held in the Olympics. The climbing group went to the Selkirks.Dee Molenaar
Southern Batura Mustagh, western Karakoram Range, Hunza. A Canadian party comprising Fred Roots, leader, Donald Lyon, John Ricker, Lisle Irwin, Donald Poole, Hermann Jamek, Momin Khalifa and Karl Tomm, arrived at Aliabad, Hunza on May 25 to invest...
The North Face Direct of Sondre TrolltindJohn Amatt, Alpine Climbing GroupAfter our ascent of the Trolltind Wall in 1965,* it seemed to me that Norway must be the site of future developments in technical climbing. Nowhere else outside America coul...
Gone with the WindA three~year struggle to climb the north pillar of Cerro Murallón, Patagonia.Stefan GlowaczSilence. Not the slightest trace of noise. Even Robert’s breath made no sound. Small clouds of mist escaped from his mouth at regular inte...
Kloochman Rock, Main Summit. In September Les Maxwell, Louis Ulrich, and Wally Juneau completed the “South Terrace Route.” About 200 feet east of the beginning of Route # 1 a short westerly scramble took them to an open chimney, followed by a west...
Caraz II (Caraz Este), North Face, and Artesonraju Tragedy. The first week of June brought us to Base Camp at 13,000 feet beside Jatuncocha, halfway up the Quebrada Santa Cruz. We spent a few days acclimatizing and reconnoitering the approaches to...
Vampire Spire, New Routes. During the first three weeks of August, Colorado climbers Pat Goodman, Nan Darkis and I traveled to Canada’s Northwest Territories to the Vampire Spires. Located 25 miles north of the Cirque of the Unclimbables in the Lo...
Peaks in the Cordillera Darwin, Tierra del Fuego and in Patagonia. Our yacht, the Eloisa, was a 60-foot, 34-ton ketch built of ferro cement and fitted with an 88-horse-power engine. It was built by the skipper, Ian Rennie, with the assistance of t...
W. V. Graham Matthews II 1921-2004I first knew Graham when I returned to Harvard College after World War II and found him enrolled at Harvard Law School. He had attended Exeter Academy (‘38) and Harvard College (graduating early with the class of ...