Homathko, Essex, and Queen Bess, Coast Range. This fine area at the northern tip of the Homathko Snowfield had attracted us since we read the late Don Munday’s Canadian Alpine Journal account of his first ascent in 1942 of Mt. Queen Bess. He refer...
Cambridge ClimbingDavid Allan Robertson, Jr.IN 1657 one Joshua Poole, M.A., of Clare Hall, Cambridge, published his English Parnassus: Or a Help to English Poesie, which included “an ample treasury of phrases, and elegant expressions” properly app...
This is the twenty-fifth Annual Report of the Safety Committee of the American Alpine Club and the twelfth in conjunction with the Alpine Club of Canada.Data from accidents not previously reported have been obtained and the statistical tables have...
Nangma Valley, Various Ascents. A team of six climbers (Mike Turner, Steve Mayers, Elfyn Jones, Di Lampard, Louise Thomas and Libby Peter) from North Wales, U.K., visited the Nangma Valley in the Hushe region of the Karakoram from July 25 to Augus...
INTERFERING WITH AGENCY FUNCTION" – UNNECESSARY HELICOPTER EVACUATIONAlaska, Mount McKinley, West ButtressOn June 1st, a female Lithuanian climber (47) was air evacuated from the 14,200-foot camp on Denali’s West Buttress. NPS rangers made numerou...
Pucahirca Central and Pucaranra, Cordillera Blanca. The Franco-Swiss Expedition to the Andes 1957—Mlle. Françoise Birkigt, Mlle. Renée Colliard, Mme. Annette Lambert and M. Raymond Lambert, of Geneva; Mme. Claude Kogan, of Nice; Jean Lamy, of Lyon...
MOUNT Hess is 50 miles due south of home, Fairbanks, and is visible during clear weather. Its unclimbed north ridge runs straight toward us, beckoning our crampons. In May Steve Hackett, Tom Hillis and I set off. Horace Black landed us in his Su...
The Spanish Version of the K2 Tragedyby Xavier EguskitzaBased on the statements provided and corroborated by JOSÉ GARCÉSand LORENZO ORTAS, August 27, 1995A seven-strong expedition from the Spanish region of Aragón was formed by leader José (Pepe)...
Canada: Data and narratives not available from 2011. Visit alpineclubofcanada.ca/services/safety/index.html for information on the Alpine Club of Canada’s safety program.United States: We have created a new section in ANAM called “Know the Ropes: ...
Before Mount McKinley was first climbed in 1913, two expeditions made false claims for the honor. In 1906 Dr. Frederick Cook reported that his fast, light expedition had taken eight days to reach “the top of the continent.” Shortly after Cook...
Yosemite’s Last StandThe defense of the heritageby John Middendorf“Among all of the debates affecting America’s national parks, the most enduring— and most intense—is where to draw the line between preservation and use.’’—from the opening line of ...
Dinosaur Tower, Peshastin Pinnacles. A new route on the east wall of the north edge of the tower was done last spring by Don Claunch, Fred Beckey, and Frank Tarvur. This short climb is fifth class, with the exception of one bolt on the blank secti...
Iowa Mountaineers. The club completed another active year in 1985 with membership at 1000. Over 300 members participated in one of the various instructional courses, the mountaineering camps, or the foreign expeditions that were one to four weeks ...
Sfingi di Ghiaccio, by Alberto M. de Agostini, S.D.B. Turin: I.L.T.E., 1958. 235 pages. 104 photographs, of which 15 are color; 4 maps. Price 3,500 Italian lire.Monte Italia, Monte Sarmiento are two ice sphinxes rising 7000 and 7900 feet out of th...
Taulliraju’s Southwest FaceMichael A. Fowler, Alpine Climbing GroupOUR TEAM WAS composed of Michael B. Morrison, Christopher Watts, Anita McKee, Michael F. O’Brien, Dr. John English, John Zangwill and me. A two-day approach brought us in early May...
AAC, Sierra Nevada Section. As we moved closer to the end of the 20th century, 1998 gave us some disconcerting glimpses of what climbers probably will encounter in the century to come. Facing the challenges of increasing commercialization of our n...
Colorado Climbing Notes, 1935Though perhaps not quite so brilliant as the 1933 and 1934 seasons, the 1935 climbing season in Colorado witnessed some important work and several first ascents. Mountaineers were again active in the San Juan, and of e...
Teebone Ridge traverse. This little-traveled piece of country lying ten miles northeast of Marblemount was fully traversed from one end to the other this past Labor Day weekend by our group of The Mountaineers from Everett. The party consisted of ...
A Survey of Andean AscentsPart II. Chile and ArgentinaEvelio Echevarría C.Included in this work are the Andean areas that have registered the oldest high mountain ascents in the history of mountaineering, dating back to before the 16th century, wh...
Mount Fay’s North FacePeter T. CarmanUPON first sight the best choice was obvious: the bulging, convex non-gulley of ice which flowed from the summit ridge of Mount Fay to the glacier below. What a strange sight — not a gulley of ice, rather a fro...