PrefaceOver the course of H. Adams Carter's 35-year tenure, The American Alpine Journal evolved as one might expect from an editor who was an expert skier, accomplished climber, and mountain scholar. Fluent in five languages, Ad relentlessly pursu...
Mt. Johnson, Tree House of Horror and Force Boyle. Zach Lee and I established the Tree House of Horror (12 pitches, IV 5.11) in winter 2007-08 with assistance from Bryan Bird and Jeff Richerds. This route is equipped with chains and can be rapped ...
BARRY C. BISHOP1932-1994Noted climber, scientist and scholar Barry C. Bishop was killed in a one-car accident on September 24, 1994. He lost control of his car outside of Pocatello, Idaho.When I try to paint a picture of my father, I am at a loss;...
Gasherbrum IV. A very strong Italian party under the leadership of Riccardo Cassin overcame extremely great climbing difficulties and made the first ascent of Gasherbrum IV (26,000 feet). On August 6 Walter Bonatti and Carlo Mauri left Camp VI at ...
THE MOUNTAIN. Getting there is never part of the fun. The car is crammed with gear, the occupants tucked in as afterthoughts. The urge to climb smoulders somewhere beneath a numbing apathy and the dust of the road. Perhaps the Alaska Highway ...
Caucasus, 1984. David Broadhead and I spent three weeks in the Baksan valley of the central Caucasus in the summer of 1984. We made ascents of Ushba North by its north ridge, the north face of Ullu-Kara-Tau, a traverse of Dongus-Orun and Nakra, an...
Ascents Along the AthabaskaFrancis S. NorthTHE highway from Jasper toward Lake Louise runs southward through the jackpine forests of the Athabaska River, past the great falls with rainbows in its spray, and on to the Sun- wapta Canyon. Near Milepo...
Mt. Waddington, possible variation and bushwhack from the sea. On July 28 Patrick Farrell and I began the approach to Mt. Waddington following the Mundays’ first 1926 attempt via Coola Creek. This journey proved to be unusual in several ways. Firs...
Gronau Nunatakker, first ascents. In August three undergraduates from Oxford University, Chris Abbott, Ben Spencer, and I, flew by ski-equipped plane to a glacier in the Gronau Nunatakker Range and made first ascents in largely unexplored territor...
Boating and Climbing in Skyring Waters THE art of mountaineering evolves rapidly; the achievement of the innovating climber is rapidly built upon. When the Nose of El Capitan was first climbed, nineteen years ago, it was an epic involving hu...
Mt. Roots, First Ascent. Approximately 850 nautical miles east-southeast of the Falkland Islands, the island of South Georgia is approximately 100 miles long and 30 miles wide and lies just outside the Antarctic Circle. A wet, cold, and hostile cl...
Amurí Tepui, Amurita. From September 13-19 we did our most adventurous big-wall expedition yet, making the all- free first ascent of Amurita (E7 6b), on the south face of Amurí Tepui. The 10- pitch route has sustained 5.12 climbing alongside a rem...
FALL ON ROCK, MISCOMMUNICATION-INADEQUATE BELAY, CLIMBERS UNKNOWN TO EACH OTHERMaine, Bald Mountain, Shag Crag, TightropeJed Piatt (29) of Dover, N.H., was in a group of experienced climbers when he fell from the route Tightrope (12d) on Bald Moun...
California: (4) Morro Rock, near Morro Bay. On 9 October 1950 Pvt. Miles T. Armstrong, member of an Army medical detachment at Camp Roberts, and two other soldiers narrowly escaped death while attempting to scale precipitous Morro Rock. Armstrong ...
Mt. Rainier Curtis Ridge Operation. On 13 June a party composed of Gary Fredrickson (27), Glen Fredrickson (20), George Dockery (37), Carl Moore (34), and Pete Sandstedt (22), began an ascent of Curtis Ridge via St. Elmo’s Pass. On Sunday 15 June ...
From our base camp on the glimmering shores of Sirki Khota Lake, Robert Rauch, Stefan Berger, and I spotted a logical line on the southwest face of 5,546m Serkhe Khollu, which is the main summit of the Serranias Serkhe and Murillo, situated betw...
Umarata and Other Peaks, 1984 and 1985. Important climbs have been belatedly filed with the Federación de Andinismo de Chile. In August 1984, 30 climbers, including four women, climbed in the Nevados de Quimsachata, in Lauca National Park on the C...
Mount Seattle—From Sea to SummitDonald J. Liska“When I saw the look on the pilot’s face, I really got scared.” Herb Staley spoke for all of us after our wild ride under the great tidewater ice-cliffs of the Hubbard Glacier. Our converted World-War...
Homathko, Essex, and Queen Bess, Coast Range. This fine area at the northern tip of the Homathko Snowfield had attracted us since we read the late Don Munday’s Canadian Alpine Journal account of his first ascent in 1942 of Mt. Queen Bess. He refer...
Cambridge ClimbingDavid Allan Robertson, Jr.IN 1657 one Joshua Poole, M.A., of Clare Hall, Cambridge, published his English Parnassus: Or a Help to English Poesie, which included “an ample treasury of phrases, and elegant expressions” properly app...