FALLS ON ROCK (4), CLIMBING UNROPED (3), FALLING ROCK—NO HELMETWisconsin, Devil’s Lake State ParkThere were five reports of climbing accidents from Devil's Lake this year, three of which resulted in fractures. The falling rock incident resulted in...
Kliuchevskaya Sopka, Kamchatka. Our expedition consisted of Richard Wojtaszaewki, Alyson Starling, Huw Davies and me. After an ascent of Avacha (2900 meters) near Petro-Pavlovsk and a failure due to high winds on Koryaksky volcano (3200 meters), w...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, INEXPERIENCEUtah, Little Cottonwood CanyonA group of four spelunkers were descending to the mouth of a small cave on May 26, 1980, when this accident occurred. Lori Huntley (18) began an unbelayed rappel with...
EXHAUSTION – UNABLE TO DESCEND, DEHYDRATION, EXCEEDING ABILITIESColorado, Rocky Mountain National Park, Longs PeakOn September 1, a Colorado Mountain School guide reported to park rangers that Tim Ashwood (40), a climber with cerebral palsy who ha...
Aeolian Tower, Sorcerer and Socerer’s Apprentice, Moab Area of Can- yonlands. Previously unreported is the first ascent of 225-foot Aeolian Tower, an Entrada sandstone formation resting atop the Carmel formation. Also known as Airport Tower, it is...
Alaska, Mt. McKinley. On 4 July while approaching the summit Richard Springgate’s foot was frostbitten due to (1) cold temperature (-16°F), (2) boot lacings tied too tightly, and (3) inadequate insulation in boot. Rewarming performed at 16,800 fee...
Sheep Rock, various ascents. Between August 2002 and July 2004 I climbed eight new routes on Sheep Rock in Gallatin Canyon, 20 miles south of Bozeman. Sheep Rock is the first major formation seen when entering the canyon, on the west side. Each ro...
FROSTBITE, EXPOSURE, HYPOTHERMIAAlaska, Mount McKinleyOn June 8, 1982, a four-member Denali East Ridge Expedition made the summit of Mount McKinley from their high camp (5520 meters) of four days at Denali Pass.On June 9, in cold, windy conditions...
FALL ON ICE, INADEQUATE PROTECTION, MISCOMMUNICATIONColorado, Ouray Ice ParkIn January, a 140-foot fall at the Ouray Ice Park resulted in fatality for an experienced climber, Pete Ro, who was participating in a master’s ice climbing class with a g...
FALL ON SNOW, INADEQUATE BELAY, WEATHERBritish Columbia, Selkirk Mountain, Hermit MountainA party of six students and instructors from the National Cadet Camp at Banff were attempting Hermit Mountain on August 14, 1983. About ten meters from the s...
Alpamayo, Ferrari Route, Crowding. Heading to the Blanca for a classic route? Get ready to take a number and wait. After climbing the Ferrari Route on Alpamayo one day in early July, Jordan Campbell, Rick Leonadis, Charlie French, and I were aston...
Correction on Aguja Poincenot. On pages 212-215 of A.A.J., 1987, it incorrectly states that the climbers reached the summit of Aguja Poincenot. They reached the 1962 Anglo-Irish route some 300 meters from the summit. They did not, however, continu...
Manaslu Solo. I spent a couple of weeks on the Manaslu plateau at Advance Base (17,050 feet) to acclimatize before attempting the normal northeast-face route of Manaslu. On October 19 I left Base Camp all alone and got to Camp I at 21,000 feet at ...
Lhotse Attempt and Tragedy. A very strong Polish expedition, which included Krzysztof Wielicki and Jerzy Kukuczka was led by Janusz Majer. They established six camps and fixed much rope on the right side of the south face. Up to about 7600 meters ...
Point Peter, Northwest Face. It was reported that on March 15, Ulf Carlsson, Nicolas Ganzin and Ian Howell made the first ascent of the Northwest Face of Point Peter (4757m), a sharp granite spire below the north face of Mt. Kenya. The team took a...
Pirámide Blanca, Southwest Face, 1988. Geoffrey Bartram, Nevin White- law and David Peltier made a new route, the southwest face, on Pirámide Blanca (5230 meters, 17,159 feet) in the Cordillera Real in August, 1988.David Marshall
Mount Lituya. After many a rainy night in Juneau, Larry McGee of Channel Flying landed our trio at Cape Fairweather on a glacial lake above the beach. My wife Diana is quite feminine, Jim Nelson young and thin and I overweight and so our pilot was...
Aguja Guillaumet, Hard Sayin’ Not Knowing. On the morning of January 22, 2009, with a marginal weather report, Kate Rutherford and I left El Chalten and continued to the east face of Aguja Guillaumet. We looked at the Anker- Piola route, but it ha...
FALL ON ROCK, PROTECTION PULLED OUT, NO HARD HAT California, Joshua Tree National MonumentOn August 20, 1988, Gert Hirst (48), Jim D’Allura (32), and Kevin Springer (28) were climbing on “The Blob” rock formation. They were attempting a new climbi...
Alpine Glaciers, by A. E. Lockington Vial. London: The Blatch- worth Press, 1952. (7½ x 10¼"). Price 30 shillings.It has been a pleasure to review Alpine Glaciers, written by a member of the British Glacialogical Society. Perhaps his description o...