Everest and Lhotse. Our 19-member expedition was led by Choi Chang-Min. I was the climbing leader. We prepared the way to Camp II, advancing through the Khumbu Icefall in partnership with the Americans. After Camp II at 6400 meters was set up on S...
FALLING ROCKS–DISLODGED BY CLIMBERS, PARTY SEPARATED, POOR POSITIONCalifornia, Mount Shasta, Avalanche GulchTwo separate parties (totaling four people) were climbing Avalanche Gulch in the poor September conditions (loose rocks, lack of snow). Unf...
Huandoy Norte and Este, Alexandra and Adam’s Variation. I arrived in Peru with the idea of climbing all four Huandoy summits. I came alone and decided to climb alone. I approached each Huandoy from the east (except when attempting the southwest fa...
Denali Arctic Environmental Project. This project was sponsored by the University of Oregon Outdoor Program, the Idaho State University Outdoor Program and the American Alpine Club. It was initiated in an attempt to contribute a new ethic in mount...
After four days acclimatizing in Puno, Hamish Dunn and I arrived in Macusani (4,300m), the nearest town to the southern side of the Carabaya, to discover that nobody spoke English or understood our limited Spanish. We were lucky to bump into Da...
Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. This fine range situated in northern Colombia, was visited in March, 1930, by Mr. and Mrs. Thomas D. Cabot. Although easily accessible from the eastern seaboard, and with peaks 19,000 feet in height, the range is almo...
The American Alpine Club 95th Annual Meeting, Bellevue, Washington, December 5-7, 1997. The energetic and diversified nature of world mountaineering was evident at the 95th Annual Meeting as the roughly 400 in attendance at the December weekend in...
Guide Vallot, Volume III — Aiguille Verte, Triolet, Dolent, Argentière, Trient, 3rd Edition, by L. Devies and P. Henry. Paris: Arthaud, 1966. 500 pages, 81 illustrations.This new edition is not merely an updated guide but a complete revision of th...
Bidhan, Third Ascent. Bidhan (6520 meters, 21,390 feet) was first climbed by Frank Smyth in 1937 and again by a Calcutta team in 1966. All ascents, including ours, were by the rather easy northwest spur. The peak lies at the head of the Deoban Gla...
Denali National Park and Preserve Mountaineering Summary, 1994. For the third consecutive year, a new record has been set for the number of mountaineers venturing up Mount McKinley. A multitude of 1277 climbers attempted the mountain during the 19...
Mount Everest, Discovery of the Body of George Mallory and Free Attempt of the Second Step. [On finding the body of George Mallory outside the search zone:] The probable location of the Chinese Camp VI, as defined by Jochen Hemmleb, was too high o...
Avenali Tower, first ascent, Avenali Avenue. The Avellano Towers are a remote, recently discovered group just northeast of Lago General Carrera in Chilean Patagonia. They comprise several low but rugged granite towers. The rock ranges from excelle...
Chogolisa, Northeast Ridge, and Broad Peak. Our original group, Mari Agrego, Josema Casimiro and I had hoped to climb together, but for reasons with the permissions, the first two had to join Renato and Goretta Casarotto; they climbed K2 as report...
1951–20032004Geographical DistrictsNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedNumber of AccidentsDeathsTotal Persons InvolvedCANADAAlberta490134102224811British Columbia2991106278414Yukon Territory342675112New Brunswick100000Ontario37967000Que...
L’InespéréeThe push for the top of a new route in Greenland’s Tasermiut Fjord by Lionel Daudettranslated by Alex Baer, Sébastien Gallison and Marina Heusch (from Montagne Magazine 3, October 1996)June 23, 1996.We’ve already spent 10 days on the we...
Kyokkiar and Sarybeles Mountains, first ascents. In August-September John Allen (UK), Peter Berggren (Sweden), Hilda Grooters (Holland), Tim Riley (UK) and I all climbed in the Gori Sarybeles and the Khrebet Kyokkiar of the far Western Kokshaal-To...
Mountaineers. The year 1971 marked the 37th Annual Climbing Program of the Seattle Mountaineers. As in recent years, three formal courses of instruction were offered to the membership. The courses extended from February through September beginning...
Noshaq (7,492m), first ascent in 25 years. The Oxus Mission, organized by Mountain Wilderness International, had two main goals: to show that it was again possible and not risky to visit the mountains of the High Hindu Kush in northeast Afghanista...
Gangotri I (6672m) ascent. Although this high peak south of Gangotri Temple has now seen many ascents, one on September 26 was notable. On that day 12 members of an all-women Indian expedition organized by the Indian Mountaineering Foundation reac...
In July and August, Saskia Groen, Vincent van Beek, Bas Visscher, and I explored a little-known range in the eastern part of the Pamir Alai, close to the Chinese border.This compact collection of steep alpine peaks, on a ridge running northeast to...