White Needle, on Artificial Legs, and Nun. In 1946 Major R. Berry, Captain Ralph James and Major Tom Stobart attempted to make the first ascent of Nun (7135 meters, 23,410 feet) via the east ridge. They climbed the White Needle (6550 meters, 21,49...
Parque Nacional Huascarán, Cordillera Blanca, PeruMichael J. RourkeTHE Parque Nacional Huascarán, situated in the northern Peruvian Andes approximately 400 kilometers (240 miles) north of Lima, embraces the entire Cordillera Blanca (with the excep...
Aguja Poincenot, Northwest Buttress, 1986. Above a prominent pedestal to the left of the 1977 Carrington-Rouse route, the Italian route ascended some 2000 feet of sustained difficulties. The ascent was made between December 6 and 8, 1986 by Italia...
The Mazamas. The Climbing Committee, chaired by Doug Wilson, scheduled 292 climbs in the summer season and 16 winter climbs. The climbing schools enrolled 200 students in Basic Mountaineering, 44 in Intermediate, 18 in Advanced Rock, and 12 in Adv...
Coronation Everest, by James Morris. New York: E. P. Dutton & Co., 1958. 145 pages; ills. Price $3.75.What, another Everest book? Yes, and a good one, too! In fact, one of the most readable of all. Although James Morris didn’t climb the mounta...
With the help of the McNeill-Nott and Mountain Fellowship grants, Blake Herrington and I spent ten days exploring peaks around the Scud Glacier of the Stikine Region in late July and early August. We flew 50 miles west from the Cassiar Highway ...
Lou Whittaker: Memoirs of a Mountain Guide. Lou Whittaker with Andrea Gabbard. Seattle: The Mountaineers. 1994. 271 pages. $24.95.Rock Jocks, Wall Rats, and Hang Dogs: Rock Climbing on the Edge of Reality. John Long. New York: Fireside/ Simon and ...
Washington, Cashmere Crags, Razor Back. The Mazama party climbing in the Cashmere Crags, May 27 - 30, consisted of five club members; Jim Craig, leader, Verner (Pete) Setala, assistant leader, Elmer McCor-mick (41), William Pratt, and Scott Arighi...
Quvernit Island, seven virgin summits and nine new long granite routes. At the end of July a seven-member-strong group from Switzerland and Germany started on a six-week climbing expedition to the South of Greenland. The target of our group was fi...
Mounts Logan, Queen Mary, McArthur and Hubbard, Icefield Ranges, Kluane National Park Reserve. During the 1991 climbing season, there were 16 groups that climbed or skied in the park. A total of 83 people spent 1497 person-days in the mountains. A...
Annapurna IV, Central Rib of the North Face. Our climbing team consisted of John Collett, Doug Kosty, Tim Schinhofen and me as leader, with Sherpas Pemba Norbu, sirdar, Dawa Onchu, Ang Dorje and Lhakpa Temba. In support were Dan Bridges, Bill Dail...
FALL ON ROCK, AMANITA MUSHROOMSWyoming, TetonsAt 0915 on August 10, 1984, Larry West (37) and Darell Nielson (36) left the Lupine Meadows parking area for a climb on the Petzoldt Ridge of the Grand Teton. Nearing the spring on the first switchback...
The Centenary of The Alpine ClubJohn C. Oberlin, Henry S. Hall, Jr., Francis P. FarquharSome Englishmen made an ascent of the Finsteraarhorn on August 13, 1857 and talked over a favorite project as they went along—the formation of an Alpine Club. ...
A Ghost of a ChanceAn account of the first ascent of Mount McKinley’s Father and Son’s Wallby Steve HouseSometimes a project lurks in a climber’s mind for years. You dance with it to the beat of your ambitions and the ebb and flow of your confiden...
“Adjutant”, Northwestern Chugach, 1973. Overlooked in the report of 1973 Alaskan climbs was the first ascent of “Adjutant” (8350 feet), the easterly companion of “Alabaster” (A.A.J. 1967, 17:2, p. 335). On July 26, Bob Spurr, Bill Barnes, Jr., Jac...
FALLING ROCK, FAILURE TO HEAR WARNING, INEXPERIENCE WITH AREA, POOR POSITION, NO HARD HAT Oregon, Smith RocksOn April 5, 1986, there were three climbing groups on the same area in Smith Rocks. Party 1 (consisting of two), while climbing the upper ...
Hagshu Tragedy, 1986. A four-man British team, Stephen Biggs, Ian Kerr, David Woolbridge and Ian Fox, passed a police post on September 25, 1986, headed for Hagshu. They have not been seen since and are presumed dead.Kamal K. Guha, Editor, Himavan...
Buck Mountain (11,400). First traverse on August 15th, by the writer. Ascent from south fork of Avalanche Canyon by northeast ridge; descent by old route (east face). Register placed on summit. The route of ascent was the first new one on Buck Mou...
Volcán Melimoyu. This ice volcano, exactly 2,400m (7,874') high, is located by the sources of the Palena river in Chilean Patagonia. (Editor’s note: more specifically, Volcán Melimoyu [44.08 S, 72.88 W] is in the northern part of Chile’s XI’s regi...
Knots for Mountaineering, Camping, Climbing, Utility, Rescue, Etc., by Phil D. Smith. 24 pages, 5 pages of illustrative diagrams. Pamphlet-bound. Twenty-nine Palms, California: The Desert Trail, 1953.This booklet covers 55 knots, hitches, etc., ea...