South Howser Spire, East Face, Bugaboos. On the left side of the gully first climbed by Beckey and Chouinard in 1961 lies a large buttress that extends from the bottom to the top of the east face of South Howser Spire. Its most conspic uous featur...
Kamet. An Indian expedition led by Pradyut Chatterjee is said to have made a successful ascent of Kamet, but at this time there are no details.
Cordon de los Pioneros, Pico Bicentenario (6,092m). In November 2010 Guillermo Almaraz, Lelio de Crocci, Eduardo Namur, Juan Labra, Daniel Pontin, and Claudio Valva (Argentina) made the first ascent of Peak 6,092m in the northern part of the Cordo...
Gasherbrum IV Attempt. A British expedition consisted of David Lampard, leader, his wife Rhoda, Andrew Atkinson, Alan Phizacklea, Alan Scott, Alan Shand, Christine Watkins and Bob Wightman, They first attempted the west ridge but gave up at 6600 m...
Chau Chau Kang Nila (6304m), ascent. This popular peak in Spiti was climbed by Dipankar Ghosh’s West Bengal expedition, which included three handicapped persons.Harish Kapadia, Honorary Editor, The Himalayan Journal
Nilkantha Attempt. I joined Fred Beckey, Jim Ruch, Greg Collum and Seth Shaw on an attempt on the southeast ridge of Nilkantha. We hiked for 2½ days up the valley from Badrinath, and with the help of local shepherds made Base Camp at 14,000 feet o...
California, Echo Summit Area—Sometime in November, Earl B. Seibert was killed while climbing alone near the south end of Lake Tahoe. A search party found the body at the base of a sheer cliff from which a rope was hanging.Source: National Skiing, ...
Hagshu Attempts. The usual approaches to the Kishtwar area have been restricted, forcing a long route via Lahul or Zanskar. A Spanish expedition led by Cristobal Real Gil approached via the Umasi La from Zanskar. They established Camp I at 5700 me...
HENRY S. FRANCIS JR.1930-1990Harry, as he was known to all, except possibly his parents, died at home on October 7, 1990. Though his fatal cancer had been diagnosed in the spring, he quickly came to grips with it and enjoyed the rest of his life. ...
RAPPEL FAILURE, INADEQUATE EQUIPMENT Alberta, Rocky Mountains, Mt. AlbertaOn August 1, 1979, Archie Ellis and two companions, all of Calgary, were descending Mt. Alberta. They had set up a rappel with Ellis coming last. Their rappel rope broke and...
William J. Mosconi 1951-2003Bill Mosconi began his climbing career relatively late; he was nearly 30. He learned to ski in the Alps and tried sky diving. With characteristic pragmatism, Bill sought the best climbing mentor available to him, hiring...
JAMES HUNTER HOLLOWAY1934-1992J. Hunter Holloway was killed on April 30, 1992 in a car crash near Donnellson, Iowa.Hunter was many things to many people and organizations. He was a veteran wire-service journalist and government communicator, most ...
Qungmo Kangri, first solo and first alpine style ascent, via south ridge. After a month of mountaineering in the central part of the Nyanchen Tanglha, Gerhard Gindl and I went to the far southwestern end of the range to make a reconnaissance of Qu...
Czechoslovakian-American Exchange. In September 1982 Mark Wilford, Rick Powell and Matt Kerns visited Czechoslovakia and concentrated on sandstone areas which had been a cradle of free-climbing. In return the American Alpine Club invited us to Ame...
Washington climbing, trends and new routes. In recent years alpine climbing in the Washington Cascades has become less exploratory. First ascents are still being made but less frequently. However, speed ascents and enchainments have become more po...
Mount Kabru, Attempt and Tragedy. The members of the Slovenian expedition to Mount Kumbhakarna East (a.k.a. Jannu East, 7468 m) in the fall were Bojan Pockar, leader, Ziga Petric and Anda Perdan, the doctor. Bojan and Ziga were planning to climb t...
Mounts Balchen and Geist, Alaska RangeDusan JagerskyIT was with the first break in the weather that we left. Until then we had been staring patiently from our tents at the end of the Delta Junction runway at the Alaska Range, a mirage against the ...
“Avanarsuasua*,” Exploration. The 1998 Euro-American North Greenland Expedition returned for the third time in a series of expeditions (1995, Schmitt, Deuel; 1996, Schmitt, Skafte) to further the exploration of this northernmost peninsula of the ...
K2, Attempts. It was reported that a seven-man group (Rick Allen, Andy Parkin, Mike Smith, Harry Taylor and Brian Tilly, U.K., plus Maciej Berbeka, Poland) planned to attempt the unclimbed east face. Some members reached ca. 6500 meters on the sou...
Whitesides Mountain, Children of the Sun. Mark Ilgner and I had been working on a new line on Whitesides Mountain for two years. We finally completed it in December. The route climbs the left side of the headwall section, beginning between Ship of...