Colorado, near Mt. Neva—On June 20, 1956 Robert H. Cook (14), one of a group of about 20 boys from a YMCA Summer Camp, fell down the snow-faced cliffs on the side of Mt. Neva. He apparently slipped and rolled and tumbled 60 feet suffering a broken...
Dangchezhengla (5,833m), first ascent. Two climbers from the Hengduan Mountains Club (HMC)—Kiyoaki Miyagawa and Junta Murayama—made the first ascent of this beautiful, hidden snow peak, reaching a foggy summit at noon on June 17. Dangchezhengla is...
Mount Thor. A party led by me succeeded in the first ascent of this major peak in the Gold Range of the Monashees on August 7. Other members of the party were Graham Hollins, Chris Kopczynski and John Roskelley. Our approach was from the northeast...
Masherbrum II Attempt and Possible Altitude. In 1988, an Italian expedition led by Augusto Zanotti made the first ascent of the most westerly of the Masherbrum group. They called it “Masherbrum Far West” and gave it an altitude of 7200 meters. (Se...
Stein’s Pillar. The second ascent of Stein’s Pillar, a noted geologic landmark east of Prineville, Oregon, was made in late August by Steve Marts, Eric Bjornstad, Dave Beckstead, and me in a 1½-day siege. The 400-foot Pillar overhangs profusely on...
Spantik Ascent and Attempt. The French "Allibert" Karakoram expedition 1995 was successful in climbing Spantik (7027 meters) in the Rakaposhi Group. The expedition was led by the guide Bruno Douillet and approached the mountain from Chogolungma si...
Washington, Cascades, Hall’s Peak. On May 20, John Woll, Dan Davis, Steven Skubi (15), and Richard Springgate left Silverton, Washington on the Silver Gulch trail at 5:30 A.M. Davis and Springgate were experienced climbers, Woll and Skubi first an...
FALL ON ROCK, INADEQUATE BELAY, POOR COMMUNICATIONCalifornia, Yosemite Valley, Lower Yosemite FallsOn June 24, Raj Dhingra (39), my brother Hugh (34), and I—Dan Sakols (37)— decided to tackle Commitment (three pitches, 5.9), one of the “Five Open ...
Washington Column, South Face. The first ascent of the south face of Washington Column was made in October by Jim Bridwell and Joe Faint.
The Alpine Club of Canada. The 1963 Spring Ski Camp was held in the Tonquin Valley of Jasper National Park, with the recently completed Wates-Gibson Memorial Hut at Outpost Lake as headquarters. Skiing conditions were not of the best owing to medi...
Churen Himal Attempt. A French expedition led by Gérard Grossan attempted Churen Himal (7371 meters, 24,184 feet) by the southeast face to the east ridge, hoping to reach the east peak. After establishing five camps, they reached 23,450 feet on No...
On September 5 the two of us set out to attempt two western Chugach peaks we thought might be unclimbed. From Richard’s home, we hiked up the North Fork of Eagle River and Twin Falls Creek before setting Camp 1 at Blue-Eyed Lake. The next day we c...
Red Rocks Select, Second Edition. Todd Swain. Chockstone Press, Evergreen, Colorado, 1996. 246 pages. $25.00.Comment: Swain’s second edition contains nearly 800 routes, 300 more than the first edition and nearly four times the number included in J...
Services of the Arctic Institute of North America. Although many of our readers are familiar with AINA, it seems appropriate to call their attention to the Institute’s library and its major publication, the Arctic Bibliography. Its Canadian office...
Gaurishankar, Northeast Ridge, Attempt. Gaurishankar (7134m) lies on Nepal’s northern border with Tibet; it is visible from Kathmandu on the northeastern horizon, and it was once thought to be the world’s highest mountain until the British Survey ...
El Ermitaño and Peña Blanca, Northern Andes. These two peaks were ascended by an expedition of the Club Andino de Chile. The group travelled from Santiago to Copiapó and turned east to cover the last 130 miles in a jeep along the international roa...
Cerro Castillo, 1987. On January 26, 1987 my husband Gino Buscaini and I climbed an 800-meter-high, snow-and-ice couloir which had an angle of 55° in the upper part of the west face of Cerro Castillo (Coyhaiquel; 2670 meters) in Chile. We climbed ...
Great Trango Tower, Northwest Face, Lost Butterfly. Our expedition was planned to be a first ascent of the (presumed) highest big wall on earth, the nearly 2000-meter northwest face of the Great Trango Tower. With this project we garnered the Pola...
Istor-o-Nal and Other Peaks. A Czech expedition was led by Tibor Šurka. On June 25 Jožo Psotka, Juraj Zatkov and Ivan Fiala climbed Bajpash Zom (c. 22,000 feet) in the northern part of the Tirich group. On July 13 Pstoka and Milan Mereš climbed to...
Mount Everest. Our expedition on the south east ridge of Everest consisted of Brian Agnew, Peter Allen, Paul Bayng, Norm Crookston, Pat Cullinan, Chris Curry, Tony Delaney, Bruce Farmer, Charlie Hart, Peter Lambert, Terry McCullagh, Rick Moor, Joh...